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We moved into a new house last spring, with a genuine 24 X 24 garage/basement. I've been planning a shop upgrade with a 10" cabinet saw, a 15" planer and a few other tools because the increased space would allow me to do so.
So I have installed additional 110V outlets along one wall, a 30 amp 220V run and a 20 Amp 110V run to supply a HF dust collector or the BT3K (I am still going to use my shop vac for the BT3K). In addition, I installed 8 shop lights ran off the original lights (a switched 15 Amp CKT with two 60W bulbs, whom I plan to replace with the new "daylight" fluorescent "bulbs") using the "daylight" 40 Watt tubes. During this adventure, I learned several things that may be of use to others.
1. Whatever you think you'd going to need to spend on electrical installation, triple that estimate. I had hoped to spend only $100.00 and I ended up spending $340.00 or so. The biggest cost is the wire and I had two boxes of 110V 15Amp receptacles that the previous owner had left in the garage that I didn't have to buy.
2. Twist locks are very expensive. If you are on a tight budget, wait until your machines come in and then see which ones already have plugs, then match the receptable and plugs for other machines to that one.
3. When buying the 3 wire cord used as power cord for induction motors, take a look at what the manufacturer used inside the machine and simply match that. Using diameter (smaller numbered gauge) wire may create a situation where the wire doesn't fit and you've spend money unecessarily.
3. Twist lock receptacles and plugs cost around $15.00 apiece, while the ones similar to what came on one of my new machines (a 15" planer) cost about $4.00 apiece. So you can use the same amount of money to buy outlet boxes, the power cord, the receptable, the plugs, the box covers, etc. for about the same money as you spent on a single locking receptacle and plug. Not saying the twist locks aren't real nice, but you don't absolutely need them. BTW, I was advised by the tech. supports of both new machines I bought (a cabinet saw and the planer mentioned above) that neither motor will pull much over 18 amps max unless they are about to burn up, in which case they'll pull about 20-21 amps (absolute max) just before they fry.
4. Do not buy the ten pack of 40W neon bulbs ($10.00 box of ten) from Sam's club thinking you can use them in the half of your garage you won't be working in until you can afford the "daylight" bulbs ($6.50 for two). The Sam's club bulbs do not want to light up and you'll end up taking them back and getting the "daylight" bulbs anyways, so you lose gas and spend time that could be spend doing other things. BTW, the "daylight" bulbs are the ones you want, the ones the BORG sells in two packs, not sure if they sell in larger packs or not. These things are beautiful for lighting up your shop, especially if you're mid forties and up like me and need some light to see well.
5. If you have a steep driveway, do NOT bother paying for home delivery on big floor model tools. The trucking companies cannot get their trucks down your driveway and you end up getting the tool loaded into your truck anyways. They take forever to deliver and you're stuck at home when you could be picking up assorted shop stuff to build your shop with.
6. The newest style Ford F150 bumper is perfect for putting two 4 X 4 boards on to use as a ramp to bring the heavy power tools down off your truck. For the Woodtek 10" cabinet saw, you'll need two husky men and to disassemble the top of the crate and remove the accessories. For the Yorkcraft 15" planer, don't bother uncrating, you won't gain enough weight loss. Instead, you'll need two husky men and one of those men's 18YO son to push from the truck bed as you guide the planer onto the improvised ramp. As far as the ramp goes, put 2 x 4 blocks in the middle of the 4 x 4's to keep them separated. The shipping crate bottom will keep them from spreading. Block the ends of the 4 x 4's that are touching the garage floor so they don't slip. When you get the tool to the garage floor, you can tilt it just enough to remove the improvised "ramp" and then you're "golden."
7. If your buddy has previous electrician's experience, he'll be a great deal of help. He'll also have another buddy who is current on the electrical codes he'll check with to make sure you're up to date.
8. Bending conduit isn't all that hard, but the electrician's tools add up in costs. Having a buddy that has the tools because of his past experiences is a great thing.
Just my thoughts after action.
Dave
So I have installed additional 110V outlets along one wall, a 30 amp 220V run and a 20 Amp 110V run to supply a HF dust collector or the BT3K (I am still going to use my shop vac for the BT3K). In addition, I installed 8 shop lights ran off the original lights (a switched 15 Amp CKT with two 60W bulbs, whom I plan to replace with the new "daylight" fluorescent "bulbs") using the "daylight" 40 Watt tubes. During this adventure, I learned several things that may be of use to others.
1. Whatever you think you'd going to need to spend on electrical installation, triple that estimate. I had hoped to spend only $100.00 and I ended up spending $340.00 or so. The biggest cost is the wire and I had two boxes of 110V 15Amp receptacles that the previous owner had left in the garage that I didn't have to buy.
2. Twist locks are very expensive. If you are on a tight budget, wait until your machines come in and then see which ones already have plugs, then match the receptable and plugs for other machines to that one.
3. When buying the 3 wire cord used as power cord for induction motors, take a look at what the manufacturer used inside the machine and simply match that. Using diameter (smaller numbered gauge) wire may create a situation where the wire doesn't fit and you've spend money unecessarily.
3. Twist lock receptacles and plugs cost around $15.00 apiece, while the ones similar to what came on one of my new machines (a 15" planer) cost about $4.00 apiece. So you can use the same amount of money to buy outlet boxes, the power cord, the receptable, the plugs, the box covers, etc. for about the same money as you spent on a single locking receptacle and plug. Not saying the twist locks aren't real nice, but you don't absolutely need them. BTW, I was advised by the tech. supports of both new machines I bought (a cabinet saw and the planer mentioned above) that neither motor will pull much over 18 amps max unless they are about to burn up, in which case they'll pull about 20-21 amps (absolute max) just before they fry.
4. Do not buy the ten pack of 40W neon bulbs ($10.00 box of ten) from Sam's club thinking you can use them in the half of your garage you won't be working in until you can afford the "daylight" bulbs ($6.50 for two). The Sam's club bulbs do not want to light up and you'll end up taking them back and getting the "daylight" bulbs anyways, so you lose gas and spend time that could be spend doing other things. BTW, the "daylight" bulbs are the ones you want, the ones the BORG sells in two packs, not sure if they sell in larger packs or not. These things are beautiful for lighting up your shop, especially if you're mid forties and up like me and need some light to see well.
5. If you have a steep driveway, do NOT bother paying for home delivery on big floor model tools. The trucking companies cannot get their trucks down your driveway and you end up getting the tool loaded into your truck anyways. They take forever to deliver and you're stuck at home when you could be picking up assorted shop stuff to build your shop with.
6. The newest style Ford F150 bumper is perfect for putting two 4 X 4 boards on to use as a ramp to bring the heavy power tools down off your truck. For the Woodtek 10" cabinet saw, you'll need two husky men and to disassemble the top of the crate and remove the accessories. For the Yorkcraft 15" planer, don't bother uncrating, you won't gain enough weight loss. Instead, you'll need two husky men and one of those men's 18YO son to push from the truck bed as you guide the planer onto the improvised ramp. As far as the ramp goes, put 2 x 4 blocks in the middle of the 4 x 4's to keep them separated. The shipping crate bottom will keep them from spreading. Block the ends of the 4 x 4's that are touching the garage floor so they don't slip. When you get the tool to the garage floor, you can tilt it just enough to remove the improvised "ramp" and then you're "golden."
7. If your buddy has previous electrician's experience, he'll be a great deal of help. He'll also have another buddy who is current on the electrical codes he'll check with to make sure you're up to date.
8. Bending conduit isn't all that hard, but the electrician's tools add up in costs. Having a buddy that has the tools because of his past experiences is a great thing.
Just my thoughts after action.
Dave
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