Shop storage projects

[cgallery]

In in the middle of a shop (basement) redo.

Complaints about old shop area: Crap panelling on fir strips that were attached to concrete block walls with liquid nails, and were all coming off.

Dropped ceiling that was dropping more (parts falling on my head).

So a few months ago I removed the ceiling (leaving exposed joists) and then started on the panelling. I hand-scraped the liquid nails residue from the walls, painted with water-proof paint, and then a top-coat of latex.

After the first wall, I had to stop and figure out a way to store four large shelves of tools/stuff so I could ditch the steel shelves and continue.

I tried shelf standards attached to the wall I had completed, but the walls were less than straight.

So I created some cleats between joists on top of the walls, then I made some hangers with 1x material and some rafter hooks from the hardware store. My shelving unit and my tool rack hang from two of these hangers each. This way I can slide them around and even move them if I like.

The tool hanger will hold all my bits. Having bits in boxes (even nice ones) on shelves turned into a PITA, as I was constantly having to get the box out, find a spot for it (for example, top of table saw) and then having to move the open box again when I needed to use the saw. I wanted everything out and ready.

The tool hanger is really just a piece of plywood with two t-slots routed into it, and assorted BB plywood holders. Still have one for my hand tools to finish-up.

I used mostly materials on hand. The plywood carcase for the shelf and the plywood t-slotted rack are cheap plywood from Home Depot. The WO shelves for the hanging shelf was provided as a return favor for helping w/ someone's PC (there is quite a bit more, and he is bringing even more--good to do favors for guys w/ Wood-Mizers). I had the BB plywood. Even the milk paint was on-hand. This was my first attempt at milk paint. I like it, will be using it more. Put it over crap plywood and your end product looks fairly decent.

I still have a little more work to do, but whatever doesn't fit on these two things will go up in the ceiling in little "garages" I'm making for pneumatic tools, etc.

Part of my goal was to really de-clutter the shop. So having a place for everything, and everything in its place, is my ultimate goal.

[radhak]

Wow! Now that's a shop my LOML would be proud of!

Somehow it reminds me of Rod Kirby's shop, wonder why...

That's a neat look you have achieved. You'll now want to spend all your time there!

[os1kne]

Very nice! (Using pocket screws to fasten to your ceiling joists? That's getting serious!) Nice work!

[knobcreekman]

you have more drill bits than i have tools

[cgallery]

you have more drill bits than i have tools

That one block has enough room for four 29-bit sets.

Two different rows of brad-point bits, and one row of split-point bits. One row for future expansion.

The other block is 31 carbide-tipped Forster bits.

I got to the point a few years ago where I got tired of never having the right sized bit.

[Mr__Bill]

Looks good, who do you have come in to dust?


Bill
over here in the dirty shop

[cgallery]

Looks good, who do you have come in to dust?


Bill
over here in the dirty shop

Its all brand-new stuff. It'll get dusty, I guarantee it.

[RodKirby]

Way to go

[crokett]

Cool idea on the bit storage. That is one more in a long list of things I want to do in my shop.

[RobertB574]

Thanks - This Would Work For Me Too

I Like It.

I have shop in the basement too. I added lights but it still appears dark - never thought of painting the cinder block. Your idea of hanging from the top of the wall solves another problem in my shop. Bit holder good too.

Shameless Copycat

[phi1l]

When I started redoing my basement shop, I didn't know how my final configuration would end up, so everything is on wheels. Mostly on NFS style wire shelving on casters. I even build a tool table (router/drill press/ jig saw/ grinder, assembly) from the bottom half of one of those.

[cgallery]

When I started redoing my basement shop, I didn't know how my final configuration would end up, so everything is on wheels. Mostly on NFS style wire shelving on casters. I even build a tool table (router/drill press/ jig saw/ grinder, assembly) from the bottom half of one of those.

That's a good idea, too.

But what that picture doesn't show is my flooring problem.

The tile floor was installed AFTER the panelling that I've removed. Now I've got a jagged gap of approx. 1" between the walls and the tiles.

So my ultimate goal is to get everything as condensed as possible, as much off the floor as possible, and then to "fix" the floor.

I had been thinking epoxy, which would require removing the tile, grinding, and then the epoxy.

But I think I'm going to just replace the crappy old vinyl tiles with crappy new vinyl tiles (just kidding, the newer commercial tiles are kinda nice).

The old tiles actually come up quite easily (the glue is old enough that it is the hard solvent stuff, not the flexible latex stuff). So a new tile floor can be done by myself in sections without having to worry about telling the family "don't walk here for two days."

But the less on the floor, the better (at least until I fix the floor).

[phi1l]

That's a good idea, too.

But what that picture doesn't show is my flooring problem.

The tile floor was installed AFTER the panelling that I've removed. Now I've got a jagged gap of approx. 1" between the walls and the tiles.

So my ultimate goal is to get everything as condensed as possible, as much off the floor as possible, and then to "fix" the floor.

I had been thinking epoxy, which would require removing the tile, grinding, and then the epoxy.

But I think I'm going to just replace the crappy old vinyl tiles with crappy new vinyl tiles (just kidding, the newer commercial tiles are kinda nice).

The old tiles actually come up quite easily (the glue is old enough that it is the hard solvent stuff, not the flexible latex stuff). So a new tile floor can be done by myself in sections without having to worry about telling the family "don't walk here for two days."

But the less on the floor, the better (at least until I fix the floor).

How old are those vinyl Tiles? ( I'm wondering about asbestos ) You may want to consider a solution that leaves the existing tile undisturbed an in place.

[cgallery]

How old are those vinyl Tiles? ( I'm wondering about asbestos ) You may want to consider a solution that leaves the existing tile undisturbed an in place.

They should be vinyl. They're 12x12, and still quite pliable. I believe they were installed approx. 1989 to 2001.

And the glue is the yellow stuff instead of the black stuff.

I'll use precautions anyhow (basically flooding the floor with water to keep the dust down while I'm working).

[phi1l]

They should be vinyl. They're 12x12, and still quite pliable. I believe they were installed approx. 1989 to 2001.

And the glue is the yellow stuff instead of the black stuff.

I'll use precautions anyhow (basically flooding the floor with water to keep the dust down while I'm working).

You should be OK then. Asbestos was phased out of vinyl tiles in 1980. So unless they were very old stock sitting back in the corner at the supplier, you should be asbestos free.