Framing "false" wall - 2x3's sufficient?

[RyFitz13]

I'm about to start a shop renovation to try to better utilize the space I have available to me. One of my big limiting factors is usable wall space - my house has an old field stone foundation, so it's basically impossible to mount anything directly to the wall.

So, part of the project will involve framing in a false wall about 6" (max) inside the fieldstone wall on at least one wall of the basement. The wall will support a bunch of pegboard and a few wall-mounted cabinets.

All that being said, would it be sufficient to frame this wall in with 2x3's? The inch isn't much, but I'd like to minimize the amount of space I lose to this wall in the shop. If it makes a difference, the wall will be about 7' high, supported at the bottom by a pressure treated sill plate I'll be installing, and secured at the top into 2x4 stringers running between the 1st floor joists.

[pelligrini]

For a 7' non-loadbearing wall 2x3's should be fine. You don't have to hold it 6" off of the stone wall either.

[ragswl4]

I would use 2x4s for the added strength and the fact that wall mounted cabinets are normally attached with 3" - 3 1/2" screws. Loosing an inch isn't really a big deal given the benefits of using 2x4s.

[cabinetman]

I would use 2x4s for the added strength and the fact that wall mounted cabinets are normally attached with 3" - 3 1/2" screws. Loosing an inch isn't really a big deal given the benefits of using 2x4s.

I agree. Minimizing the construction may be a detriment if you plan on ever using the wall for other purposes. Using 2x4's doesn't seem to me to be "overbuilding".
.

[Mr__Bill]

Don't forget that field stone wall will let a lot of moisture in. Make sure there is ventilation for the space. If you sheetrock the wall use the green damp proof stuff. If you just hang the cabinets and pegboard you may want to put up a vapor barrier to protect the tools.

Another issue with 2x3 is if you can get quality ones.

Bill

[RyFitz13]

Good points, all. I'll stick with the 2x4's, and see what I can get up for a vapor barrier. Do you think just some plastic sheeting stapled to the backside would be sufficient?

And you are absolutely correct about the moisture in the field stone... I've extended my gutters out 3' from the house, re-graded a couple iffy spots, and I still get all kinds of water down there - particularly in the spring when all the snow melts away.

[Mr__Bill]

Good points, all. I'll stick with the 2x4's, and see what I can get up for a vapor barrier. Do you think just some plastic sheeting stapled to the backside would be sufficient?

And you are absolutely correct about the moisture in the field stone... I've extended my gutters out 3' from the house, re-graded a couple iffy spots, and I still get all kinds of water down there - particularly in the spring when all the snow melts away.

I expect so. Your just keeping it from the back of the tools and not out of the room. Do you have a trench along the floor for the seepage to drain of in? I have seen the plastic sheeting layed against the wall with the bottom at the drain trench, that way the condensation on the plastic drains of too and not on to the floor. If you staple it to the back of the wall (a real trick that I would like to see done) you may wish to leave the bottom long and let it reach over to the trench.

Bill,

[pelligrini]

If you staple it to the back of the wall (a real trick that I would like to see done)

We'll sheath walls before we tilt them up if they're going up against something else. That probably could be done with the membrane.

[ragswl4]

Tyvex or similiar is a good moisture barrier. Tyvex is on the expensive side but Lowes and HD sell a generic that is 30-40% less. Problem is the rolls are pretty big and you probably don't need that much. Any construction going on near you where you might be able to get just enough? It is used here on the exterior of houses as the moisture barrier.

[Mr__Bill]

Tyvex or similiar is a good moisture barrier. Tyvex is on the expensive side but Lowes and HD sell a generic that is 30-40% less. Problem is the rolls are pretty big and you probably don't need that much. Any construction going on near you where you might be able to get just enough? It is used here on the exterior of houses as the moisture barrier.

And a word about Tyvex. Tyvex keeps liquid water out, or in as the case may be in, but lets water vapor through. In this situation water vapor will be the issue as the liquid water will fall to the floor and be drained away.

Bill

[Mr__Bill]

We'll sheath walls before we tilt them up if they're going up against something else. That probably could be done with the membrane.

If you do that don't forget to put a diagonal in to keep the wall from paralleling and the plastic pulling loose from the staples.