Ideas on reconfigurable drawer dividers

[Slik Geek]

I finally finished a cabinet for my shop and now have a bunch of drawer space to organize my stuff. I'm looking for drawer divider ideas.

My first thought was to make thin strips with slots cut half way through. I'd rather use a scheme that allows a more infinite variety of divider arrangement, as well as one that is flexible so that I can reconfigure quickly and repeatedly. Any ideas? How have you dealt with this?

[MikeMcCoy]

I haven't tried these but the price is right if they work for you.

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...ferings_id=208

[Tom Miller]

Are you looking to divide a drawer into one or two parts, or more like 10-20?

If only a few, I sometimes just cut pieces of hardboard and use a glue gun. That way, I can make them very specifically sized without inventing the illusive "perfect universal system". The glue pops off pretty easily when I want to make changes.

Regards,
Tom

[steve-norrell]

Here's an example. Probably more elaborate than you will need, but you get the idea. These are 1/4 inch pine boards but I have also made dividers out of 1/4 inch MDF.

Good luck, Steve

[Slik Geek]

Are you looking to divide a drawer into one or two parts, or more like 10-20?

Probably 5-20 is the range.

[Slik Geek]

Here's an example. Probably more elaborate than you will need, but you get the idea. These are 1/4 inch pine boards but I have also made dividers out of 1/4 inch MDF.

Good luck, Steve

I considered what you have done... but I'd like to be able to achieve "irregular" dividers - varying lengths and widths. I thought that I had seen a technique that used some kind of friction fit so the dividers were infinitely adjustable.

[Slik Geek]

I haven't tried these but the price is right if they work for you.

http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...ferings_id=208

Thanks. It would have been helpful if they indicated the divider thickness that those are designed for!

[leehljp]

Over here, the equivalent of the US's "Dollar Store" (called the 100 yen store) has dividers in different heights in lengths of 12 to 24 inches. They look like a picket fence. Each slat is 1/8 inch from each other. The connector bar is from slat to slat is off center so that they can be turned upside down and interconnected with cross pieces. Cut them off as needed. LOML loves them. Fairly sturdy and nice and different colors too.

If you were here . . .

[cabinetman]

Thanks. It would have been helpful if they indicated the divider thickness that those are designed for!

It fits a side from 7/16" to 1/2", and will take a 1/4" divider.
.

[pecker]

Sears carries a couple of toolbox drawer dividers sets...you cut them to size and snap together. You might be able to get them to work for your application.

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ge+Accessories

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1...ge+Accessories

[mschrank]

Thanks. It would have been helpful if they indicated the divider thickness that those are designed for!

They do, click the "More Info" tab:

Just position these divider supports over drawer sides measuring 7/16'' to 1/2" thick and insert 1/4'' dividers between the supports. No modification of the drawer is necessary. Plastic supports are 2- 7/16'' high. Dividers not included.
4 per pack. Price listed is for pack.

[steve-norrell]

I considered what you have done... but I'd like to be able to achieve "irregular" dividers - varying lengths and widths. I thought that I had seen a technique that used some kind of friction fit so the dividers were infinitely adjustable.

You don't have to use every slot. Here is a photo of "adjustable" partitions for a rock collection display box I mad for a grand kid.

Regards, Steve

[JimD]

It is not real quick but my favorite way to do this is to make a little moulding 1/2 or less thick with a dado for the divider in the middle and quarter round profile on the edges. So for a 1/4 divider, maybe the moulding is 1/2 thick and 3/4 wide with 1/4 quarter round profile on each edge. You screw the moulding in the dado to the drawer and then slide the divider into the dado. You thus do not see the fastener and can move the divider by pulling it out, unscrewing the moulding, and then repositioning to whereever you want it.

It takes a few minutes to make the moulding but I generally use scrap so the cost is near zero.

Jim

[Slik Geek]

I think I just found the article I was thinking of where a friction fit was used to allow infinite variable positioning of dividers: American Woodworker, January 2005, page 55, "Easy-adjust drawer dividers".

The scheme uses 1/4" thick closed-cell foam on the inside of the drawer walls. Full-length divider boards are wedged into the foam, which holds them in place, but allows positioning anywhere along the length.
The weakness in this scheme is that it may not support cross-pieces very well, as the pressure to hold the cross pieces may cause the main divider to "creep".

--

Thanks to everyone for your ideas. I'm not sure which approach I'm going to take.

The "Clip On Drawer Divider Supports" allow infinite positioning, but I'm concerned about how securely they stay put. (I know they claim that they are secure, but it looks like they might swivel since only the top appears to be secured by spring force). I appreciated the additional information from Cabinetman and mschrank's polite note that regarding the "details" tab.

Tom's glue approach is intriguing. JimD's approach allows me to do what steve-norrell did with drawers that are already built. (I could do inserts, or "false walls" too to achieve the dadoes).

I have a few days before I can do anything... so if anyone has more ideas, I'm anxious to see them.

[ksum]

What about placing peg board in the bottom, and using dividers with dowels in the bottom to match up with the peg board holes? If that is not tight enough, 2 layers with the holes aligned or screwing thru the holes from the bottom could work out.