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A question came up about using 1/2" ply for backs to carry weight. Plywood backs of any thickness should be set in a rabbet. For starters, the depth of the rabbet could amount to the thickness of the back. If a 1/4" plywood back is used, a minimum rabbet would be 1/4" x 1/4". The depth into the cabinet could be increased to allow for scribe, or uneven walls. Backs into a rabbet add rigidity to the carcass and can square the cabinet.
Half inch backs can be used in lieu of a hangrail. In this case, the rabbet would extend 1/2" plus any scribe amount. To carry weight of a wall cabinet, a hangrail can be used in conjunction with a back. Hangrails can be mounted on either side of the back of the cabinet. If it is to be seen on the inside of the cabinet, it should be glued and screwed/fastened to the top and sides of the cabinet. You may also choose to install two hangrails...one at the top and one at the bottom.
If the hangrail is to be used on the backside of the back (so it isn't seen from the inside of the cabinet), a rabbet would be as deep as the thickness of the back and the thickness of the hangrail, plus any scribe.
Hangrails could be of plywood or solid wood. It will act as a stiffener, and a corner gusset. It's wise to make them wide enough to get two screws per mounting point if necessary. As a minimum, I make them at least 2 1/2" x 3/4". If they are mounted on the back of the back, their height won't be seen.
As for mounting to a stud wall, finding the center of the studs may save some grief. Catching the very edge of a stud may feel like it's centered. An easy method is to locate the studs. Then mark off on the wall where the cabinet will be mounted. Then measure from one edge (wall mark) to the stud marks. Then transfer that measurement to the back of the cabinet to drill small perpendicular pilot holes. A block of wood can be held on the inside of the cabinet to prevent any tear out. Use a countersinking bit to those holes on the inside. When the cabinet is placed where it will be installed, and it is plum and level, Make sure the screws are long enough, and I recommend using a cordless on the slowest speed (most torque, and easier to control). Put first screw in about 95% and go to the next screw. When that screw is 95%, check cabinet that it's still OK, and then bump the screws in tight. Don't run them in at speed. That's a good way to snap off heads. Bumping tight also permits concentration of good bit/screw contact, which may mean less spinning out.
French cleats may also be used. They can be fabricated to mount in the same rabbet as the back. I usually allow the depth of the rabbet for a 3/4" cleat and a 1/4" back to be 1 1/8" plus any for scribe. The extra 1/8" is to keep the cabinet cleat from bottoming out in the wall cleat and allow it to fully pull the cabinet up tight to the wall. French cleats can also be mounted on the back edge of the carcass.
When installing multiple cabinets, there's the tedious task of getting the face frames to line up flush. This is a tip that may be of some help. For example if you have three upper cabinets each having their own face frame call the first "A", the second "B", and the third "C". If you've installed the face frame on the cabinets, lay them on their backs and line them up so the face frames are as close to flush as possible. Start with "A" and "B". Clamp the two FF's together. From whichever side you are comfortable drilling and screwing, drill pilot holes and countersink in at least three places (top, middle, bottom) from one FF into the other. Make sure the holes are not drilled where hinges will be installed. Insert screws that will be shorter by 1/4" to 1/2" than the ones you will use when installing. Bump screws in tight. Remove clamps. Do the final scraping or sanding on the two FF's at once so they are flat and even. Then go to the "B" and "C" cabinets and do the same thing, etc.
When installing, after placing them where they are to go and leveling them, screw cabinets to the wall, but not up tight. Using the slightly longer screws, align the FF's, clamp, and insert screws into the same holes and bump tight. Then do the final tightening of the cabinets to the wall. If the wall is not flat, (how many are?) shimming the back of the cabinets may be necessary, so that there is no strain on the FF's. This method helps make final alignment easier.
The integrity of wall cabinets and how well they perform and carry weight is a combination of good fabrication and proper installation.
.
Half inch backs can be used in lieu of a hangrail. In this case, the rabbet would extend 1/2" plus any scribe amount. To carry weight of a wall cabinet, a hangrail can be used in conjunction with a back. Hangrails can be mounted on either side of the back of the cabinet. If it is to be seen on the inside of the cabinet, it should be glued and screwed/fastened to the top and sides of the cabinet. You may also choose to install two hangrails...one at the top and one at the bottom.
If the hangrail is to be used on the backside of the back (so it isn't seen from the inside of the cabinet), a rabbet would be as deep as the thickness of the back and the thickness of the hangrail, plus any scribe.
Hangrails could be of plywood or solid wood. It will act as a stiffener, and a corner gusset. It's wise to make them wide enough to get two screws per mounting point if necessary. As a minimum, I make them at least 2 1/2" x 3/4". If they are mounted on the back of the back, their height won't be seen.
As for mounting to a stud wall, finding the center of the studs may save some grief. Catching the very edge of a stud may feel like it's centered. An easy method is to locate the studs. Then mark off on the wall where the cabinet will be mounted. Then measure from one edge (wall mark) to the stud marks. Then transfer that measurement to the back of the cabinet to drill small perpendicular pilot holes. A block of wood can be held on the inside of the cabinet to prevent any tear out. Use a countersinking bit to those holes on the inside. When the cabinet is placed where it will be installed, and it is plum and level, Make sure the screws are long enough, and I recommend using a cordless on the slowest speed (most torque, and easier to control). Put first screw in about 95% and go to the next screw. When that screw is 95%, check cabinet that it's still OK, and then bump the screws in tight. Don't run them in at speed. That's a good way to snap off heads. Bumping tight also permits concentration of good bit/screw contact, which may mean less spinning out.
French cleats may also be used. They can be fabricated to mount in the same rabbet as the back. I usually allow the depth of the rabbet for a 3/4" cleat and a 1/4" back to be 1 1/8" plus any for scribe. The extra 1/8" is to keep the cabinet cleat from bottoming out in the wall cleat and allow it to fully pull the cabinet up tight to the wall. French cleats can also be mounted on the back edge of the carcass.
When installing multiple cabinets, there's the tedious task of getting the face frames to line up flush. This is a tip that may be of some help. For example if you have three upper cabinets each having their own face frame call the first "A", the second "B", and the third "C". If you've installed the face frame on the cabinets, lay them on their backs and line them up so the face frames are as close to flush as possible. Start with "A" and "B". Clamp the two FF's together. From whichever side you are comfortable drilling and screwing, drill pilot holes and countersink in at least three places (top, middle, bottom) from one FF into the other. Make sure the holes are not drilled where hinges will be installed. Insert screws that will be shorter by 1/4" to 1/2" than the ones you will use when installing. Bump screws in tight. Remove clamps. Do the final scraping or sanding on the two FF's at once so they are flat and even. Then go to the "B" and "C" cabinets and do the same thing, etc.
When installing, after placing them where they are to go and leveling them, screw cabinets to the wall, but not up tight. Using the slightly longer screws, align the FF's, clamp, and insert screws into the same holes and bump tight. Then do the final tightening of the cabinets to the wall. If the wall is not flat, (how many are?) shimming the back of the cabinets may be necessary, so that there is no strain on the FF's. This method helps make final alignment easier.
The integrity of wall cabinets and how well they perform and carry weight is a combination of good fabrication and proper installation.
.
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