Framing a Basement shop...?

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  • lkazista
    Established Member
    • Jan 2004
    • 330
    • Nazareth, PA, USA.

    #16
    Originally posted by Cheeky
    they carry dricore at HD.

    my brother is in the initial phase of finishing his basement. i'm helping him as much as possible.

    we might be going overboard, but we painted the floor and walls with water-proofing paint. we're going to set the framing 2" away from the walls, use a vapor barrier for the bottom plate, with PT.

    after it's framed, and plumbing and electrical pass inspection, he's going to have somebody spray 2lb expanding foam insulation. benefits include: as close to air-tight as possible, resists rot and mildew.
    Cheeky<

    Has your brother had any quotes yet on the spray in cost? That seems the best route, but I have always assumed it would cost millions of dollars.

    Lee

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    • jackellis
      Veteran Member
      • Nov 2003
      • 2638
      • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
      • BT3100

      #17
      he's going to have somebody spray 2lb expanding foam insulation. benefits include: as close to air-tight as possible, resists rot and mildew.
      We're in the process of designing a home in the California mountains (paying for it is a whole other matter!). Sprayed foam has twice the R value of rigid foam so you only need half as much depth (roof) or width (walls) for the same insulation value, which means we only need about six inches of foam instead of 11 inches of something else in the ceiling. It also cuts down on the size of the heating plant you're required to have in California. Best yet, it avoids having to ventilate the roof over a cathedral ceiling, which just became very problematic with the new building codes for wildland dwellings in California that took effect on the 1st.

      Go with sprayed foam if you possibly can.

      Comment

      • ejs1097
        Established Member
        • Mar 2005
        • 486
        • Pittsburgh, PA, USA.

        #18
        Originally posted by Cheeky
        they carry dricore at HD.

        my brother is in the initial phase of finishing his basement. i'm helping him as much as possible.

        we might be going overboard, but we painted the floor and walls with water-proofing paint. we're going to set the framing 2" away from the walls, use a vapor barrier for the bottom plate, with PT.

        after it's framed, and plumbing and electrical pass inspection, he's going to have somebody spray 2lb expanding foam insulation. benefits include: as close to air-tight as possible, resists rot and mildew.
        Share lots of pictures along the way!
        Eric
        Be Kind Online

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        • JimD
          Veteran Member
          • Feb 2003
          • 4187
          • Lexington, SC.

          #19
          The floors in our basement are mostly either ceramic tile or laminated hardwood. Ceramic is essentially moisture proof and very easy to install over concrete. If it fits your usage, it deserves strong consideration. Lowes and Home Depot run specials where off-white 12x12 tiles are around $1/square foot. Even with thinset and grout you'd be under $2/bd foot. You could put a rug over it (that could be easily replaced if it ever got wet).

          The laminated hardwood I used goes down with a special adhesive combed out with a v-notch trowel. It has been down over 5 years and no issues. It is a little warmer than the tile.

          I had carpet put in the bedroom because I like carpet in bedrooms. Probably the most expensive floor in my basement. The bedroom is on the back side of the house where the basement floor is a little above grade.

          Jim

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