10-2 romex for most shop 220?

[jessrice]

I finally got the power company out to install my meter in my new shop, so I can actually start wiring up the place!

Currently, i am not running any 220v tools, but do have a 3hp shaper and want to purchase a 5hp table saw in the future, plus maybe a few others


Since i don't have any idea of future purchases, I was going to run 10-2 to every 220 outlet i install. Other than the cost of the wire, does this sound like an okay idea? This should cover any 110v devices to 30 amps, plus any 5hp and under 220v motors, correct?

Since i need to drywall everything, i wouldnt have easy access in the future, so I would rather pay for the wire now.

I am installing a few welder and plasma outlets as well, and running 6-3 to them, for the same reason, that i am not sure of future purchases, and dont want to re drywall. 6-2 would proably be fine, but the 6-3 was cheaper at Home depot.

So, 10-2 to every possible 220 wood working outlet, and then size the breaker and outlet to match the tool be okay?

thanks

Jesse

[dlminehart]

I'm no electrician, but I'm pretty sure you'll need 10/3 romex for 220. The idea with 220 is you have insulated common plus two 110 wires (plus the uninsulated ground). With 110, you only need common plus one 110 (and ground), i.e., 10/2.
!

[LarryG]

Other than the cost of the wire, does this sound like an okay idea?

That's certainly what I'd do, and intend to do, when I build the shop of my dreams someday. You've mentioned the only drawback: paying the higher cost of the heavier wire. Well, that, and working with the thick stuff. But both are something you do only once. And from then on you have, as you've also mentioned, complete flexibility without having to fish any new wire or open up any walls.

Two-conductor (plus ground) Romex is all you need. There's no neutral in a 240V circuit.

If you don't mind my asking ... do you have reason to think you'll need a 5HP saw? I seem to recall that you have a BT now. I think most of us find that the step up from the supposed 3HP universal motor of a BT to the genuine 3HP induction motor of a cabinet saw to provide all the power most people will ever need. I wouldn't get a 5HP motor unless I was buying a 12" saw, so I could saw thicker stock than a 10" will handle.

[bmyers]

I think you're talking at least two different runs here. A 110 circuit and a 220 circuit. They are not the same and you don't use just 1 leg of a 220 circuit with a neutral for a 110 drop. Maybe I just didn't follow you on that one..

Also, the size of the conductor is dependent on how long the run is and what the load is. So, 10/2 might be ok for a 50' run at 15 amps but you might need 8/2 for a 150' / 15 amp run from your box to where it's going to land.

There are charts and calculators out there on the *BBI, make sure you use one to find out what wire you really need at what load and distance.

Bill


* ( big bad internet )

[jessrice]

I'm no electrician, but I'm pretty sure you'll need 10/3 romex for 220. The idea with 220 is you have insulated common plus two 110 wires (plus the uninsulated ground). With 110, you only need common plus one 110 (and ground), i.e., 10/2.
!

David,

for 220 motors and heaters, a neutral or common isn't required, so you can use a 2 conductor wire with ground which is what 10-2 or 12-2 has. You have to remark the white wire black wiht tape or sharpie, to indicate it is now a hot, and not netral or common. then it cna be connected to the second hot on the 220v breaker. I am unsure why the ground wire isnt counted in romex so that a 10-2 would indicate 2 total wires, and a 10-3 would be three total wires, nut thats the way it is.

For ranges, ovens, dryers, or anything that has to have a 110 and 220 to operate, you need a 3 conductor, like 10-3 or 12-3. These items usually have 110v control components, like timers or clocks, so you need the neutral/common for the 110v stuff to work.

14-3, 10-3, 12-3, ect can also be used for 3 way switches, as another wire is needed for the switch leg.

I am only using 6-3 for my instant water heater, welder, and plasma connections, since it was about 60 dollars cheaper than than needed 6-2. For these i will just use the common as an additional ground and mark it as so wiht green tape.

However, if i ever get an old stove setup for powder coating, i can simply remove the green tape, hook up the neutral on both ends, change the outlet and can then run the oven.

Jesse

[jessrice]

If you don't mind my asking ... do you have reason to think you'll need a 5HP saw? I seem to recall that you have a BT now. I think most of us find that the step up from the supposed 3HP universal motor of a BT to the genuine 3HP induction motor of a cabinet saw to provide all the power most people will ever need. I wouldn't get a 5HP motor unless I was buying a 12" saw, so I could saw thicker stock than a 10" will handle.

Larry,

no i don't have any reason to think that i will need 5hp, an have been looking at the pm 2000 with 3hp in the future.

But at the same time, i do see a lot of used equipment come up for sale that might be oversized for me but a good deal.

Also, i was basing the calculation on the 10-2 romex at 60 degrees C, and the most amps i could run on it, which is 30 amps at 110v or the biggest motor which i think is 5 hp.

I do agree the other hassle, other than cost is going to be wrestling the 10 guage wire, but I would rather do it now, with the walls open that try to fish it later throught the joists and drywall!

Jesse