Considering a change in DC routing

[ironhat]

Thanks for the suggestions. The DC is a HF with a neurtal vane added with stock bags (since the DC resides in the garage and not the shop. I'll probably go with attaching the back to the wall, leaving the pipe where it is and use legs in the front. I'm not confident of my carpentry skills on that wall.

Thanks,
Chiz

[cgallery]

I'll bet that wall is plenty strong. If it is 2x4 construction and drywalled both sides, it is a torsion box (stronger than you'd imagine). I'd run a beefy doubled-up plywood French cleat along the length and hang my cabinets on that, above the DC pipe. Nothing touching the floor but my feet.

An option (if you really must have legs), is to consider a middle leg, half-way between the front and back of the cabinet. That way you aren't kicking it with your feet all the time. And it provides more balanced support, too.

But give the French cleat idea some more thought. It could simplify construction, reduce material use, and add flexibility. Plus installation is probably going to be easier if your floors are uneven.

[ironhat]

I hadn't thought of the fact that the wall is a torsion box (OSB covered on both sides)! You also noted the benefit if the floors are uneven. Well, the center of this bench will straddle a dip in the center of the wall where a drain exists. Probably the only downside I can see is me dropping things and having them roll under the table. By a doubled up plywood clete I'm assuming you are talking thickness, like 1.5" thick x 6" high x width of the table. That's sounding pretty good to me already. I can see individual cabs on wheels underneath, unless you think that loaded cabs as a part of the table could be sustained on the cletes. I'm wary of that.

[ironhat]

Moderator: If possible can you transfer these three posts to the other, identically named thread. I don't know how I did that but apologies all around.

Thanks,
Chiz

[cgallery]

I hadn't thought of the fact that the wall is a torsion box (OSB covered on both sides)! You also noted the benefit if the floors are uneven. Well, the center of this bench will straddle a dip in the center of the wall where a drain exists. Probably the only downside I can see is me dropping things and having them roll under the table. By a doubled up plywood clete I'm assuming you are talking thickness, like 1.5" thick x 6" high x width of the table. That's sounding pretty good to me already. I can see individual cabs on wheels underneath, unless you think that loaded cabs as a part of the table could be sustained on the cletes. I'm wary of that.

You got it right. However, for strength's sake, you want the base cabinets to be (probably) at least 24" high, so they can distribute their load over that much wall. As you reduce their height, they will act more and more like pry bars, trying to pull that cleat off the wall.

And yes, a well anchored cleat will support a tremendous amount of weight. I don't know what you plan on loading the cabinets with, but I have no doubt that tools and lumber should be no problem. Provided you get the proportions right and anchor the clear securely to the studs (and I'd drive some screws through the clear and into the OSB, too--I didn't even know you had that--now it is a no brainer).