"Trash Can Seperater"

[BT3 WOODOG]

What do You guys think of the trash can seperater lids that they sell? How do You hook up to them,they have no connector fittings,just holes???

[gary]

Just show the hose in a couple of inches. Mine was a friction fit and I didn't do any fasterning for sealing. Works great.

For best performance, I need to empty it before 1/2 full or it'll begin to overflow into my DC bag.

[SARGE..g-47]

Morning Wooddog..

The lids along with a 30 gallon can add a 2nd phase to dust collection. One or both of the holes preferably have a twist in the hole that makes the air circulate at high speed like a cyclone. The heavy chips and saw-dust drop down into that can and the dangerous dust (under 2 microns) moves through the 2nd opening to be filtered by your felt (and it needs to be felt and not some other fabric) or cannister filter and drop into a bag or can under-neath it.

Several advantages you gain here...

(1) You just remove the lid on the first can and empty if often. The fine particles go to the 2nd container and you only have to clean it about every 8-10 times you empty the easy to empty 1st.

(2) By having the large chips drop in the first container, there are no large chips or anything else you could have picked up on the floor (metal) if you use the DC for a shop vac that will enter and attempt to pass through the DC Impellor fan. A large piece can hit the fan and damage it by bending, denting, etc., etc. which will reduce the efficiency of the DC to "suck up". ha.. ha...

Takes up a little more room.. but IMO I wouldn't be without one. I have one mounted with the DC mobile to roll to any place.. any machine. Getting ready to pull the trigger on a Penn State Cyclone soon. The true cyclones are much more efficient (especially on long, fixed port runs) but those separator cans and lids are based on the cyclonic action that yhou get in a true cyclone system.

Caution:... some of the new design lids have straight tubes coming out the top. If you get one you're going to have a add an L elbows to give the a air twist as it hits the inside of the can. Without that twist or cyclonic action, it is nothing more than an add-on that looks impressive.

The fittings on the opening can be tapped in with 3M weatherstrip glue, 3M silicone glue.. aw heck, use your on immagination. I wrap a layer of duct tape around the inside of the fittings that will be in the can to act as a flange, then silcone the opening for an air-tight seal.

Hope that gives you an idea of "what's shaking" with dust lids. ha.. ha...

Regards...

[eezlock]

cyclone seperator lids

Sarge, I have one of the 5 gallon types that I use on my dust collector. I works pretty good, all the hoses are just twisted on to the connections at the chip can and from there to the dust barrel (all outside the shop).
The inlet side of the chip can has a elbow fitting inside the top that causes the chips to swirl around before settling to the bottom. The outlet side is
just a straight out connector that goes to the dust barrel.

By the way, this is an all home made contraption, that I put together
from an idea I picked up of the web where a guy used an old leaf blower
to power the dust collector ( impeller) and it works pretty well considering
it isn't professionally designed/ built. It does the job for now anyway.
eezlock

[SARGE..g-47]

Morning eez...

I may have mis-lead when I stated L "elbows" plural. As your set up, only one has to have the angle to get that swirl started. The old type I have has both in-let and out-let coming in at angles. I haven't seen that type for awhile?

Just twisting them in will work. I'm kinda into trying to squeeze every drop from a turnip, so I silicone glue them to pevent any air leakage. I rimmed my can with foam weather-strip to minimize leakage there.

There is a lot to learn on a DC system regardless of how large or small of one you have. Some try to make long runs with an ill-equipped set for long runs. I have seen them reduce a DC opening of say 5" to 4" at the DC in-let. That reduces static pressure along with the friction of the ribbed hose. They should run 5" from the DC to the machine and then reduce to 4" if that is what their machine port size. Better yet.. most machines have larger openings where the 4" dust port is. That larger hole is coverd partially by the 4" hood. Take it off and replace it with a self adhering metal hood the same size as the hose and eliminate the loss of effieceincy by reducing.

Another trick is to take off the face plate on the DC where the "in" and "out" ports are. If you see an X piece of metal put there to try to trap larger chips or any metal that might hit the impellor.. cut it out to open the port with more capacity. But..... But.... only if you have a separator that gets the larger pieces before they get to the impellor. And it is wise to put a mesh screen on the opening in the separator to goes to the DC impellor.

Yep.. a lot to learn with these things and especially for an old dummy like myself that is still a hold-out for getting a cell phone! ha.. ha...

Regards...

[BT3 WOODOG]

Thanks guys!!! I have a new H.F. 2horse D.C,and have been collecting fittings,blast gates,etc...Went to Wood Smith today & picked up a few more things. Nice shop Sarge!

[dkerfoot]

I have the smaller 5 gallon type that I use with a shop-vac.

It works great with my router table - hardly any of the chips get through to the shop-vac. Table saw dust is a different story. It definitely reduces the amount of dust hitting the shop-vac, but probably 25% gets through.

-Doug

[Uncle Hook]

I recently bought this cyclone lid (#143290) from Woodcraft.com on sale for $24.00 but I am thinking of returning it.

http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4310

The same lid is available from Peachtree woodworking, but the Peachtree lid does not include the 90 degree elbow is included with the Woodcraft lid. I am told this elbow is important to the operation of the cyclone lid.

http://www.ptreeusa.com/dustacces.htm#281

Woodcraft sells a quick connect fitting that connects a 4” hose to the cyclone lid. (See fitting A #140259 in the link below.) This fitting has an inside taper that provides a perfect fit to the tapered flange on the Woodcraft cyclone lid.

http://woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=3947

Amazon appears to have the same fitting for $3.00.

http://www.amazon.com/Jet-JW1047-4-I...4331691&sr=1-7

I bought two 90 degree elbows (see item F #85O11 in the link below) to put between the Woodcraft cyclone lid and the quick connect fittings. However, these 90 degree elbows are not tapered and they do not fit the flanges on the cyclone lid. In addition, the quick connect fittings do not fit on 90 degree elbows very well. So I don't see an easy way to use the 90 degree elbows with Woodcraft lid.

I be happy with the Woodcraft lid if my hose were coming into the cyclone lid from above. In my case, the hose will be coming in and out of the cyclone seperator from the ground and I do not like the idea of the hose doing a horseshoe bend to attach to the Woodcraft lid.

As a result, I will probably purchase the cyclone lid made by Woodstock International - and available for from Amazon, Rocker, Grizzly, Peachtree Woodworking and probably several others.

http://www.woodstockint.com/Products/18000001/

http://www.amazon.com/Jet-JW1049-Dus...4331691&sr=1-9

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...t%20collection

http://www.grizzly.com/products/G3376

http://www.ptreeusa.com/dustacces.htm#281

I saw Woodstock International separator lid at the Peachtree Woodworking booth at the NJ woodworking show. Peachtree says the Woodstock lid works well without a 90 degree elbow that is required with the Woodcraft lid. Amazon reviewers complain about the lack of flanges to attach a hose to the Woodstock lid. Peachtree Woodworking recommended getting two 4” quick connect fittings (e.g. See Jet link above for picture) to go with the cyclone lid. The idea is to insert the threaded ends of the quick connect fittings through the holes in cyclone lid from the inside, and then screw the hose onto the fitting. Apparently, this provides a secure hose connection to the cyclone lid.

My next step is to find out whether all quick connect fittings are tapered like the ones from Woodcraft. I will probably do a separate post on this.

Woodcraft has interesting article about cyclone lids.

http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=408