Dovetailing Station

[THyman]

Hi All,

I recently baought the PC 4212 dovetail jig and have done a search on this and found these two threads which were very imformative.

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=19849

and

http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=20520


Has anyone else done something like this? Also JimD can you post additonal pictures about this topic and Loring's comments on LarryG's dovetail station.

Thanks and looking forward to you suggestions and improvements.
Todd

[onedash]

i just pull it out of the cabinet and clamp it to the side of my table saw.

[LarryG]

A couple of now-that-I-have-more-experience comments on my DT station:

1. As mentioned in one of those two threads -- JimD's, I think -- the "dedicated" dovetail router that sits on my station's baseplate has a tendency to topple off, if I'm not careful, when I'm carrying the station around the shop. I either need a means to fasten it down, or else get it off the station entirely -- the latter being more likely because the station + jig + accessories + router = heavy. This is especially a problem in my current shop because the DT station stores right atop my router table, which means I have to carry it to some remote spot when I need to use the router table. I'm currently working up the design for a new router table that will have below-top storage provisions for the DT jig and DT router. I'll probably store the two items in the same compartment but the router won't actually be sitting on the DT station base.

2. Also as mentioned previously, the jig needs to be up higher when in use, both for better visibility and to be able to handle longer boards. The next version of my station will be able to handle 4' long boards, which will put the router's base about 4'-6" AFF with the router's handles at roughly shoulder level.

[radhak]

i liked this one as it folds up to the wall with the jig, critical for my small workarea:

http://store.woodstore.net/dojigst.html

not that i have already built it, but i plan to.

(there, now that i have committed, i have to do it )

[THyman]

Thanks for the update Larry.

[JimD]

I looked through the pictures I have already and I think I've posted them all. If there is something in particular you would like more information on, I can try and provide it or a picture to illustrate it better (but my picture skills have not improved a lot).

Since my last post, the only change I have made is making a plexiglass base for my PC690 (it is clear). The ability to see what you are doing without having to move your face into the path of the wood chips coming off is a very nice thing. It is important with the HF jig to either make the clear base the same diameter of the stock base (what I did) or adjust the bar on top that controls how far into the front you cut.

I still very much like my base. The ability to keep the depth jig and wrench for the side stops on the jig is great. The added height really helps the back. The lines on the baltic birch really helps getting the side stops set with a minimum of test cuts and also really help getting the stock in the right position consistently (although you have to get it set right once so you can mark the plywood). I leave a router with the dovetail bit in it until I need if for something else but setting it up again is pretty simple with the little 0 cost jig to get the depth right. I hardly make drawers with anything but dovetails because cutting them is so simple with the jig on its base.

Jim