New shop questions

[GaryA]

Hi all...moving in a new house next week, and have been planning my shop for quite a while, but still several question marks. There is a 2 car garage on one side (I'll finally get to park cars in them), and a single car on the other (which will be my shop - fairly small at 11x20 - couldnt convince the wife I should get the 2-car). The exterior 2 walls are painted concrete block, I have the overhead garage door on the other, and a drywall finished wall leading into the interior on the other. I've got a utility sink, power galore (100+ amps on 5 circuits), prewired for speakers, cable, etc. A couple of questions though:

1. The builder will paint and texture the slab floor. Should I do wood flooring over it - if so, any recommendations??

2. Noise - the community I live in is zero-lot line. Meaning I have about 10' between my house and the neighbors. Trying not to get my neighbors to hate me right away - what can I do to suppress the noise (with the concrete walls & floor, nothing is helping in this area). Anybody ever use Quietrock? Wondering if that or something else would help or other ideas.

3. what about the walls? Should I do plywood, pegboard, etc?

4. There is attic space above, but they didn't put any access to it - any storage uses you can think of that I might need it for (i.e. should I put a set of pull down stairs on it?) - anybody else using this space for anything shop related? Trying to maximize the use of the small space I have to work with.

Thanks!

[Curly Qsawn]

Lucky, lucky, lucky...space you don't have to share! First, I'd see if the builder would trade the paint and textured floor for sleepers and plywood. I'd definitely rather have a wood floor. The next best would be to use mats of some kind for the machine tools. Point being to reduce sound and vibration as much as possible from the floor. For the block walls I'd consider drywall over furring strips just to have a softer texture for sound absorbtion. I'd add pegboard and french cleats for hanging cabinets as needed versus paneling the whole thing. If you can put in pull down stairs, the attic could be a much needed wood storage. Though if trusses, you probably don't want to put much up there. My space above my garage is that way and I store a few things up there, but it is a real pain using the ladder. Noise with neighbors can be a funny thing - some it won't bother, some complain because your having too much fun. Try to start slow and be mindful of the hour before you fire up a planer or saw. Maybe have a wood gift box with a bottle of favorite bevredge handy. If you get a complaint, you could just say you were working on "new neighbor" gifts.

[GaryA]

Great tips...thanks! Too late to change the floors, but would be an easy project for me

[siliconbauhaus]

rather than drywall, have a look at homasote boards. They offer superior sound proofing compared to drywall.

http://www.homasote.com/

[onedash]

I figure I will use utility grade wood flooring in my shop some day.

[maxparot]

I have seen a interior wall floating system that is used to reduce noise. I is supposed to work by keeping the sound wave from being transmitted into the studs. It's intended use is for home theater rooms. As for attic space I do use mine for storage of extra materials including wood. Being located in the Phoenix area the attic can act like a drying kiln during the summer. I see you are in Florida so your attic may have similar temperature extremes with higher humidity. Keep this in mind if deciding to use this space. As for access to the attic I would suggest pull down stairs. I have them in my home and they are on my to do list for the shop.

[Warren]

With regard to noise and neighbors. I would let them know what you are about right from the get go. Ask them to contact you immediately if any noise creates a problem.

You might also try to co-opt them. Ascertain if any have an interest in woodworking. Solicit their opinions, get them involved a little at the start so they might develop a paternal interest in your sucess. At the very least you'll quickly establish who the problem children might be in the neighborhood. Then you need a plan to accommodate them, if that is possible.

[JR]

The generally-given advice for walls is to use T&G or plywood, with the notion that you can hang a cleat or or parts bin or what have you just about any where you please. You could insulate begind that with a view to controlling noise. In any case, be sure to apply white paint before you get going on cabinets, wood storage, etc.

Others on this forum have suggested insulating the roll-up door, too.

I wish I had a wood floor. I think it would be easier on my legs and I know it would be easier on my sharp tools when I inevitably drop them.

BTW - I use the third stall of the 3-car garage. Just about the size you're looking at. I could use more space (who couldn't?), but it's fersure big enough to make stuff. I'm lacking the fourth wall that you'l have and envy you that. Of course, I can expand into the main space as needed - welcome to the first of many compromises!

Good luck,
JR

[GaryA]

Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. i do think I'll look into some form of utility wood flooring - great ideas on several of the other concerns as well, walls, etc. So far the neighbors seems pretty cool, but havent gotten the feeling any of them are into woodworking. I do like the ideas around setting expectations up front. Again, thanks for the insight.

[mmgross144]

Sound Proofing

Gary,
I hope that this isn't too late to help. I've been a sound engineer (live bands & studio) since 1980, and have had to deal with sound suppression constantly. Fortunately the majority of the sounds made by woodworking are higher pitched, and easier to block than those created by a live or studio band. Contained space with some baffling is the best sound insulator. Fiberglass insulated walls, covered with drywall, with furring strip suspended pegboard would be both functional and effective as an insulator for both sound & weather. Mats on the concrete will also help. Don't forget to drywall the ceiling, and insulation wouldn't be bad, though the empty space between the drywall and the roof will "eat" a lot of sound, as the roofs pitch will deflect the higher frquencies back into the space. Your weak spots are the garage door and any windows/openings. If your garage door is light weight enough (or your lift system strong enough), a layer of white styrofoam sheeting suspended from the doors surface by 1/8 inch spacers would go a long way to stifle sound coming through (so would sponge foam, but it would be much heavier). I hope that this will help.
Mike

[eezlock]

workspace...

Sounds as if you have the space to make a good working shop.
I think I would get some of the foam insulation board like the siding guys use
to put on exterior walls before they install the vinyl or alunimum siding on the house, usually about 3/4" thick and would cut down on noise pretty well
would also add insulation factor to help with the weather as well. You could cover it with, plywood, pegboard, tongue and groove wallboard, or what
ever else you would want and it would do fine. As to floors, a hardwood floor
is a lot easier on the back and legs when standing on it for hours, but any and all types have good and bad points.

As to attic space...very definately YES! a disappearing stairway(folding type) would be good for overhead storage of lumber,( good for drying green lumber) and other items as well.
You will find after a while that you never have enough storage room
no matter how much room you have, your better half will always say
something like" we have some storage room overhead in the shop or garage
let's put it up there" . something to think about...eezlock

[linear]

Mike,

It's refreshing to hear that perspective from an audio engineer--a lot of the time if the solution isn't big bucks they won't even consider it. Thanks for the DIY-friendly sound suppression tips!