Build or Buy

[PJC]

I am looking at a router table, but I am trying to decide if I want to build one or buy one. If I build one, I was thinking of using either 2 pieces of MDF topped with laminate or 1 piece of MDF and 1 piece of melamine as a tabletop. Anyone know of any pluses or minuses? Anyone build one and then wish they had bought one or vice versa.

Obviously, I'd like to keep things on the cheaper side, but when you add in the cost of the wood for the table, base and fence. Then, add on T-track, miter slots, knobs, dust collection, etc., I am wondering how much I would actually save by building it myself.


Pete

[Knottscott]

I've built 3 that I've mounted in the right wing of my TS. The plusses are obviously cost, but you can also build in the features you want. I've always managed to use a piece of laminate that was either in the shop or that I found discard along the road. Melamine and MDF of this size isn't too expensive. The t-tracks should only run about $25 total if you buy alot. The fence can be as simple as a flat straight board with a bit opening, but most of us prefer a bit more function.

My tables have been fairly simple,b ut I doubt I've ever spent more than $40 on one. If you're talking about something more elaborate like Norm's RT, it'd likely run a bit more, but should still cost less than buying.

There's a pic of all 3 that I've built.

[Holbren]

If you do make it yourself, Rockler has the T-Track kit on sale again.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...9&cookietest=1

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Dustmight, do you happen to have more photos of your third set up? Looks like tricked out 22124. I have phenolic table from CMT mounted in the right wing of mine and I need to add something to the bottom like you have for support and DC. Can you post, PM or email me photos of the RT set up along with the over all view of your TS set up?
Thanks if you can! If you can't no problem.
Jeff

[newbie2wood]

Not sure how elaborate you want the table but here's one for $350 (new yankee workshop style):

http://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/175670792.html

You probably could build one for less money if you don't factor in the time and labor.
________
Katelyne

[JimD]

I would never buy a router table. As long as you have the time, you will get much more for much less by building it. I would research extensively before building. Mine is laid out like Norm's but has a built-in lift - only adds about $50 cost. I got the idea from the March 2004 American Woodworker router issue. I pretty much copied their design but built a router table around it laid out like Norms but with ideas from an old Fine Woodworking shop issue (an article called the ultimate router table). I added some original ideas but not many.

My top is a sink cut-out backed by 3/4 plywood. Cheap source of laminate. It's size dictated the size of the cabinet but it is a decent size. I put maple banding around the top. Bit changes are done by tilting the top up. Best access I've ever seen. Lift moves the router 1/16 inch per revolution - easy to set exactly where you want it. I've posted pictures before, if you search my posts you should find some. My table also has horizontal router table capability.

Jim

[Ishmel]

Personally, I thought I'd build one, but a while ago someone had the bench dog router table on sale for $175 and I bought it. I still think I could have built a good table, but I don't regret buying one. At the time I figured I could have built a good one for around $100 to $150 if I used top quality materials in the table and fence. So it came down to the question of what the difference was worth to me. In the same amount of time it would have taken me me to build one, I made a dozen picture frames and a scrapbook album cover. So the $50 or so difference was worth the trade off for the free time.

I know that some will say that you can drill a hole in an old counter top, screw your router to the bottom, and clamp a straight piece of hardwood to it for a fence, and I agree with them 100%. My trouble is that I am not able to get acceptable results using that method (with any of my woodworking) so I have to use more exact tools. If you're like me, I would encourage you to watch for deals on a good quality router table (they're not hard to find). If you've got a lot of time to build one and would enjoy the challenge, you should start looking for deals on good quality materials. If you're the kind of craftsman who can get great results with the most basic tools - save the money and find yourself an old countertop.

/just my two cents.

[Pappy]

My vote is to build your own. That way you can adjust the height for you and add storage/features to fit your needs.

[MilDoc]

After contemplating building a table for a long time, LOML caught me looking at the Bench Dog table, asked if I like it, and bought it for my birthday! She included the drawers and I added the BD router lift (which is fantastic!) Overall cost is far more than it would cost to build one, I think, but the fence is great and the table is perfect overall.

[jgrobler]

About a year ago I bought one of those small tables sold for around $40 on ebay, used it twice, then built a router table into my table saw mobile base. Never looked back. I still have the other one, but it's going to Craig's list soon.

Johan

[Jeffrey Schronce]

Freaking SWEET! That is a great table! What a wife!

[PJC]

I am still leaning towards building my own, but what about this?

http://www.rockler.com/promotion/DealNoDeal.cfm

[Jeffrey Schronce]

I am still leaning towards building my own, but what about this?

http://www.rockler.com/promotion/DealNoDeal.cfm

I am sure there are folks out there that are happy with the Rockler tables, however it is my understanding that they sag pretty darn easily. That was my biggest concern in a router top and why I ruled Rockler products out. 2 sheets of MDF would be thicker than the 1 1/8" MDF table they sell (noting 1 1/8" includes the melamine on both sides. Additionally, it seems to be weakened quite a bit by the miter track and the slot design for the fence attachment.
I would think you would be better off building your own or looking to another product.

I am sickly in love with this top that I am currently using . . . .
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=6

$100 for solid pheloic table top, insert, etc. Levels like a charm. The hole in the plate that the router comes through is big enough to do above the table bit changes. It has large surface area. I built a top before and think for $100 you can't hardly beat this deal. Think about cost of melamine, MDF, router plate, inserts, etc. That's gonna cost $100, plus you worry about sagging, warping, not being totally flat, etc.

[PJC]

I am sickly in love with this top that I am currently using . . . .
http://www.sommerfeldtools.com/products.asp?id=6

$100 for solid pheloic table top, insert, etc. Levels like a charm. The hole in the plate that the router comes through is big enough to do above the table bit changes. It has large surface area. I built a top before and think for $100 you can't hardly beat this deal. Think about cost of melamine, MDF, router plate, inserts, etc. That's gonna cost $100, plus you worry about sagging, warping, not being totally flat, etc.

What's the insert material made of? Is it easy enough to drill holes through if I need to to accomadate my Ryobi router? Also, what do you use for a fence?

[drumpriest]

If you have a MDF table (such as Rockler's), I think you should shore it up by running some supports near the router plate opening. MDF not having long grain is the crux of the problem, it'll start out nice and flat, but won't stay that way.