Garage shop floor paint???

[Tom.Trout]

Is your shop floor painted with one of those epoxy concrete floor paints. Or maybe something else. What is your experience, recommendations...

Picture of shop floor and my coffee cup holder

[WayneJ]

A painted floor can become very slippery when it has sawdust on it. It wouldn't be my choice. JMHO
Wayne

[maxparot]

Mine is epoxy coated.
It makes clean up much easier and more complete.
If you are worried about slipping I'd put down rubber mats.
This would make the surface easier to stand on for long durations.

[dlminehart]

I recently painted mine with the 1-part Behr epoxy sold at HD. Looks much better than the ugly old stained cement, and encourages me to keep it cleaner. Haven't noticed any increased slipperiness, but my cement surface was pretty hard and smooth to begin with. Given that my garage was half covered with stuff, it was a major job to do it one side at a time. Stretched out over a week, what with all the prep work and waiting between coats. Glad I did it.

[realeyz]

Im planning on doing my floor in the spring with 2 part epoxy and using the added grit material to make surface not slippery. The 2 part epoxy is more expensive but its the best you can get for the job. The real pain is in the cleaning and preparing the floor for the painting. I will most likely hire someone to do it all. I have been quoted around $800 for a 400 sq ft. garage.

-Good Luck!

[maxparot]

quote:Originally posted by realeyz

Im planning on doing my floor in the spring with 2 part epoxy and using the added grit material to make surface not slippery. The 2 part epoxy is more expensive but its the best you can get for the job. The real pain is in the cleaning and preparing the floor for the painting. I will most likely hire someone to do it all. I have been quoted around $800 for a 400 sq ft. garage.

-Good Luck!

For the $800 you have been quoted you could purchase a real nice gas powered pressure washer. Something in the range of 2800-3200 psi. This would also budget for plastic and tape to cover the walls and probably leave some money in your pocket after buying the epoxy and rollers.
Since you'd still have a great tool when you get done... I think it's a no brainer unless you don't have room for a big pressure washer.
Once you have this tool you wouldn't believe how many project it is useful for.

[bigfoot15]

quote:Originally posted by realeyz

Im planning on doing my floor in the spring with 2 part epoxy and using the added grit material to make surface not slippery. The 2 part epoxy is more expensive but its the best you can get for the job. The real pain is in the cleaning and preparing the floor for the painting. I will most likely hire someone to do it all. I have been quoted around $800 for a 400 sq ft. garage.

-Good Luck!

You can buy a 2-part Rustoleum kit at HD or any other place for less than $100 and it comes with the grit.
You will need 2 kits for 400 ft.

[Scottydont]

I did mine with a Rustoleum kit. It turned out great. 3 years ago and no peeling. The little paint chips are a must if you want it non-slippery when wet.

[realeyz]

quote:Originally posted by bigfoot15

quote:Originally posted by realeyz

Im planning on doing my floor in the spring with 2 part epoxy and using the added grit material to make surface not slippery. The 2 part epoxy is more expensive but its the best you can get for the job. The real pain is in the cleaning and preparing the floor for the painting. I will most likely hire someone to do it all. I have been quoted around $800 for a 400 sq ft. garage.

-Good Luck!

You can buy a 2-part Rustoleum kit at HD or any other place for less than $100 and it comes with the grit.
You will need 2 kits for 400 ft.

Yes I know, but a couple of the contractors who gave me a bunch of tips for doing it myself said to avoid the products they sell at HD and Lowes in favor of going to a regular paint store.

[stewchi]

I did my patio in using concrete stain http://www.decorative-concrete.net/photos_stained.php I first pressure washed the surface that was the only prep. The stain is an acid base so you don’t and shouldn’t acid wash it first. I looked into the behr stuff at the Borg but you had to by 3 different cleaner first, then the stain. I bough this acid stain that is made in Aurora, but different people make it all over the country. It was about $40 a gallon. I sealed it with some stuff I bought at Menard for $25 bucks. I used to 2 gallons of stain and 2 gallons of sealer for a 420 sqft patio. Both the stain and sealer I put on with a chep plastic pump sprayer (metal + acid = Bad)
I will probably do the same thing for my basement. The stain actually reacts with the concrete to chemically change the color, it will not rub or peel off. Like wood stain you have to sand down the surface before it will come off. It was kinda funky, I bought 2 colors to do a checkerboard pattern of the patio, both were a yellowish liquid, when sprayed on the concrete it foamed up one foamed up green, the other reddish brown. When the foam went away the color was what it was supposed to be, leather brown and tan.

[burrellski]

I painted my basement shop floor with the Behr latex concrete porch and floor paint. Two coats. Let it dry while I was out of town for a couple of weeks, then started bringing everything back in. As soon as I sat something on the floor and then tryed to move it, all the paint pealed up with it. Needless to say, I would not reccomend it. Any ideas on how I can fix this without scraping/stripping my whole floor?

[stewchi]

I had a similar experience and found quite by accident that my carpet shampooer, (Bisel) when using the carpet cleaner shampoo will make that beah paint bubble up. Pick up a bottle of the shampoo and pour on a spot and let it sit overnight and see what happens, it should be less toxic than paint stripper.
Other options might be an air compressor, pressure washer, good ole elbow grease.

[dlminehart]

Burrellski, it sounds like you skimped on the prep work . . . the pressure washing with oil removing detergents, thorough rinsing, then surface etching, plus primer. Also, the latex isn't quite as tough as even the single-part epoxy. I think you'll have to bite the bullet and redo.

[waterpro]

I too am interested in this as I will be finishing the garage in the next 3 months (ie insulation, sheetrock, epoxy floor, and thanks to the bt3100 I am going to make some cabinets). I would like to try and do the epoxy myself, but I am worried I might be getting in over my head. For those of you that used a the 2 part epoxy set up, how easy was it to do the prep and application?

I figure if I am going to do it, I am going to do it right and use the best stuff I can get. Which means a 2 part epoxy. I've located this product on ebay....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...MEWA%3AIT&rd=1

and figured since it was an all in one package along with the rollers, gloves, etc, it would be a decent buy.

I emailed a few of the guys that bought that product from the guy in the past and two of them responded and said they were very happy with the results so figured I would try it out.

For those that used the 2 part epoxy setup, has anyone had problems with heavy objects making marks in the epoxy? Ie black roller marks from a table saw on castors when moving it?

Also what do you think I should do first? Put up the sheetrock or lay down the epoxy? I would figure you would want to sheetrock first and then expoxy the floor after you clean it up with the pressure washer, but then I got thinking, if I epoxy first and then sheetrock, the mess left from the sheetrock should be easily cleaned up to the point that it might just need sweep. Plus it might be easier to mask off the walls if you don't have to worry about the sheetrock getting wet when pressure washing the floor for the prep. Curious which one you guys would do first.

[fcpjax]

I have a garage workshop that is 24ft X 26ft and the previous owner painted the floor white and it is pealing up because the concrete is chalking so the paint is coming up in spots. Also, I have several cracks it the floor. Based on the poor condition I have decided to just cover the floor versus trying to paint it again.

I have found several companies that make tiles for garage floors and since my color scheme is white walls, ceiling and cabinets with every thing else in Red and Black, I have decide to cover the floors with a red border and red and black checker board in the middle.

This is the product I am thinking of using http://www.jnkproducts.com/dynotile-garage-flooring.htm
I was wondering if anyone has tried this tile or similiar tiles and what luck have you had with tile in a workshop?