DC ? - Attaching to Various Machines / Tools

[wassaw998]

I just picked up the HF DC. A lot of my tools have a smaller fitting than 4": BT31 TS, Delta BS, DL CMS, Sanders, etc etc...In fact, I don't have a single tool / machine with a 4" port ! So, don't I defeat the point of a 4" pipe by restricting it down to these various fittings ? Or is it OK to restrict it down for the final run. And, what are you all using for reducers ? My BS came with one, but, that one is does not fit the BT31, nor my CMS... I was using my shop vac hose between the DC and the BT31, but, then , had to wonder why not just use the shop vac !! [V]

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by wassaw998

So, don't I defeat the point of a 4" pipe by restricting it down to these various fittings ? Or is it OK to restrict it down for the final run. And, what are you all using for reducers ?

To a certain extent, yes, a reducer does detract from the advantage of the larger hose. But most agree that the very short bottleneck caused by a reducer right at the end of the run is much less of a problem than having the entire system restricted by much smaller hose. A shop vac moves a small volume of air at high velocity. A dust collector moves a high volume of air at low velocity. The latter is what you want for effective dust control in the shop.

Adapters are a figure-it-out-as-you-go kinda thing. Your best bet is to ask SPECIFIC questions, giving the ID or OD dimensions of what you're trying to connect to what; others have probably done it, and will be able to tell you what to do. For instance if you ask, "How do I connect a 4" hose to a piece of 4" PVC pipe?" -- plenty of folks have done that and can tell you how.

[drumpriest]

What I do is put an adapter right at the tool when I can. That restricts the airflow the least. Some people here have converted their bt's to a 4" connection at the dust shrowd, I've not been that ambitious. As to why not just use the shop-vac, the DC moves more air. Also it'll free up your shop vac, my most precious tool. Also, you don't have to fiddle with it when switching tools.

I can't remember what the reducer is for the BT belly pan, sorry, it's 2 1/4 or 2 1/2, can't remember which. I think it took 2 trips to woodcraft (they are close) to get the right one. If your shop vac hose fits it, take the hose with you and compare the fittings to the hose.

I also don't have a single tool with a 4" port, but now that I have a DC, my future fixed position tools will.

[kwgeorge]

I attacked the problem a bit different. I noticed when I restricted the airflow by using a size reducer that the dust collector’s upper bag would not fill and performance suffered.

I got to reading allot about DC’s and found that they really like to maintain that constant flow of air. My solution was to place a 4” Y at the blast gate and then serve two 2-1/2” tools at the same time. This has worked very well for me up to this point.

[wassaw998]

Thanks - I can figure out the fitting sizes, just was wondering how everyone was hooking theirs up to the various tools with smaller than 4" ports in regards to air restriction. The one reducer I have ( delta ) is pretty abrupt, not a gradual reduction, you can actually hear the air whistling thru it. I figured a more conical shaped one would be more air-o-dynamic, plus I was also then using a section of 10 (FEET) shop vac hose from the fitting to my TS port. I like Ken's idea !

[drumpriest]

Ken, let me see if I have it straight. For instance, I have a shark guard, so I've got the port at the back and one at the top. Are you saying that it performed better for you if you did the reduction at the Y, not directly at the tool?

thanks,

[kwgeorge]

Yep, sure did. It is my understanding from what I read that I needed to maintain the same size opening at minimum as it was needed for maximum air flow. So, I went through great pains to maintain at least 4” and it has worked very well.

Give it a test and watch your DC bags.

[LarryG]

Remember that the large (as compared to a shop vac) impeller on any dust collector is designed to move a MASSIVE volume of air. With 4" hoses, which are already restricted both in size and by their internal ribs, even before you add the further bottleneck of a reducer, it is normal to have to open two blast gates in order to get enough total airflow for the DC to work most efficiently. If you start the DC running with only one blast gate open, listen to the sound the motor and rushing air make, and then open a second gate, you'll hear an obvious difference as the total air flow increases because the DC is now able to "breathe" more easily. When there's only one gate open, it's like the unit is sucking on a straw with a finger held over the other end -- especially if that run of hose has a reduced on its end. Open the second gate and it's like the DC goes, "AHHHHH....."

My usual MO is to leave the gate on the hose serving the bandsaw open all the time, and then open one additional gate at whichever tool I'm using. The exceptions to this are when I'm using the bandsaw, when I just open any other second gate; and when I reconfigure the hoses so that both are on the router table (one on the fence, one on the bottom box) -- but of course even then there are still two gates open.

[wassaw998]

This DC stuff gets complicated ! Do you guys have any pics of your set ups ?

[LarryG]

quote:Originally posted by wassaw998

This DC stuff gets complicated ! Do you guys have any pics of your set ups ?

You can browse the various JPGs that I uploaded to my Shop folder and get an idea of what I've done. Mine is just a simple, four-into-two-into-one hose system (i.e., no rigid pipe runs) but it might give you a few useful clues.

[Tom Miller]

Are you using (or considering) 4" S&D pipe for your DC runs? I recommend it for the price, availability of fittings, and ease of setup. You can also make quick-connect hoses by slipping a short piece of pipe into the ends of 4" hose that you can get at Woodcraft/Rockler/etc. This pic shows some different connections:





Here's how I improved the DC on my bandsaw:










This is the back of my BT3, where a short section of hose is used to allow tilting motion of blade:






For your CMS, I'd suggest a 4" pipe opening close to, and in line with (but not otherwise connected to) the dust port of the saw. The dust from the port will be caught by the DC, which will also catch other stray dust. After you see how/where your CMS kicks dust, maybe you could improvise a better hood.

Regards,
Tom

[messmaker]

Tom- You are a brave man. I could not bring myself to cut a hole in the side of my bandsaw. I am sure it works but I am just not that far along yet.