Wireless remote control for DC

[jhart]

Anyone using a wireless remote control unit to turn on/off their dust collector? My DC will be far enough away from the main area that a wireless would work well. Needs to be something relatively inexpensive. Would appreciate any model numbers, brands and where you got it from.

[Pappy]

I use this one.

http://www.grizzly.com/products/item...emnumber=H2797

[Tom Miller]

I use X10 components. My DC is 220V, so I use the 220V 20A X10 module plugged in to the outlet. For 110V, they have a module listed as 15A, but it also says 1/3HP, and 500W, so I'm not sure if it would be up to the task. Maybe others can comment on that. If you're using 220V, I can get you more info.

I have a little key-fob transmitter that I keep on my shop apron (which helps remind me to put on the apron).

Regards,
Tom

[vaking]

I believe my setup is as cheap as it can possibly get. A sears autoswitch is plugged into a dedicated 20A cicuit.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...at=Tool+Safety
DC (3/4 HP) is plugged into auxiliary oulet of a switch. 15A power strip is plugged into the main outlet of a switch (with heavy gauge extension cord) and all the tools that use dust collector are plugged into that power strip. When I go into workshop I turn autoswitch into "auto" and after that when I turn on any power tool - the dust collector comes on itself. Hoses/blast gates control which tool is DC working with at the moment. Total cost - $20 and there are no remote control switches. This setup gives the DC about 5A and my 3/4HP jet fits that limit. It is not very powerful and it is not very far from the main area. I doubt it will work if you build a complex duct network, but for a small shop like mine works well. I like not having to push any extra buttons to turn DC on or off. In fact, even if I had a bigger DC unit I would have devised a setup with the same sears switch turning on some contactor in turn activating a big DC on a separate circuit. Such setup should work with any DC as long as all your power tools are 110V under 20A each and you run them one at a time.

[maxparot]

I also use the X10 modules in my shop. I have the 120v recepticles,(1 for my HF 2hp DC) a control module,(the outlet has a radio plugged in) an universal 120V module,(controls the florescent lites)the main wireless control pad sit on my workbench and keychain remotes at all stationary tool to control the DC.

[dlminehart]

I use one from Ace Hardware. Burned out the first time I used it, but after soldering a heavier wire in place of the flimsy trace on the little circuit board, it's been doing fine. Only cost about $20, less rebate.

[Habe]

I use one I picked up at Woodcraft on sale for $40.00. It's on the HF 1.5 hose DC and does very well. Would hate to give it up as it is a real step saver.

[jhart]

Thanks for the suggestions. Looks like the units are in the price range I was thinking about. I have the Sears auto switch also and had been using it with the shop vac and BT, with ok results, but still too much dust and want to get my RAS, planner and Router table hooked in.
Those currently are in another area vs the BT and all will be 30-50 ft from the DC.

I saw a comment from a search of the forum, about doing a 3 way switching setup and that also may work, but as of now, I'm more inclined to go with the wireless remotes.

Thanks again for the imput.

[scoly]

I also use the remote from Ace with the mod that dlminehart
mentioned. Has worked great for some time but recently my dc has begun to just come on by itself. Guessing that someone in the neighborhood has a remote that activates my switch. May have to look into something different.
Steve

[jhart]

I have a wireless light switch in a hallway and the same thing happens. Not sure how far the signal can travel, but I'm sure I end up doing the same thing to something of theirs when I use the switch.

[dlminehart]

Steve, I had that spontaneous startup on my DC as well! My solution is to toggle the on-board DC switch when I start or stop a work session, then during the session use the Ace receptacle-mounted remote switch to feed juice to the DC switch as needed. I.e., the switches are in series.

[scoly]

David,
That's what I'm doing now. Problem is sometimes I use the dc at the start but end doing hand work and forget about the dc switch. Late at night on it comes and have to get up to turn it off. No idea how long it has been on. May send Ace an email and see what they have to say about it.
Thanks
Steve

[ironhat]

I have the DC in the garage and have a switch in the shop wired to the DC power recepticle. Even at that I found it a pain to use so I now I use Woocraft's version (watch for a sale). I mounted it in a more central location in the shop an it works flawlessly. I believe I paid $35 on sale. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=5117

[dlminehart]

I suppose one could put the Ace on a timer . . . but I don't have any timers beefy enough for 1.5HP! And they'd probably cost enough that I might just as well get the Woodcraft one.

[MilDoc]

Both the Woodstock and Grizzly remotes say will handle up to 1.5 HP. My HF DC is listed as 2HP and I know it can draw a lot of amps at startup. Will either unit work on it?