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Well, still under construction, but I have rough shop pictures. A shot of the house, I built by hand, using a block and tackle and a tripod to set the poles, 25 years ago, rough barn style, with cypress siding, 14 1/2 ft about mean high tide. Sawgrass around a small island. Living space up stairs. Work space, expendable on all levels, is down.
NO NAME,storm in the early 90's, put nine ft of water in my area, so it got the tools, saw motors, and things collected over a long time. Water was deep enough I watched a horse swim by, and a house trailer go down in a nearby bay like a diving submarine. It all rolled out of a large utility enclosure, into a screen area. Wind was DC. That became history. It wore me out on working with tools for a while.
I had to have tools again. I had to build another shop, so I had to build half a house downstairs to do it. Its taken me two years.
Shot of house and 9x12 shed.
Detail of house and back deck with view of swamp out the back shop door. It has access in a tiny canal, to a four miie run to the Gulf of Mexico, or the backwaters. So shallow and rocky it has a real bad rep for killing motors.
Picture of the dual four SD rig, to the HF DC. When two gates are open, speeds up about 25%. Judged by the wild spin of the chips in the bag. I get to position the saw with the Shark on one of those rolling walking beam bases anywhere its most out of the way for a canoe or small boat build. I have built a few boats, and the sanding was deadly, so I will use the drops for sanding, and a 4 inch dust sucking sweep can be in the area I am sanding. The pipe is not glued, a few key pieces got some poly seamseal. I had to take it down once, and make a better plan. The gates have to have be fitted well with hacksaw cuts in the SD pipe edge, heated, then necked down to the pipe while soft with a clamp, and sealed with poly seamseal. The overhead gates need a screw in the top of the pipe, into the edge of the gate flange to keep them on if you yank the hose. The plastic gates are not that nice, but I am short on time.
The nice thing, is if I pop open a gate down the line on the overhead run, it sure cleans the pipes, A BT3 with a bottom pan, connected to the one run and the back and the Shark on the other, gets good flow. For critical tools, use two hoses.
Many times I thought, one six, then I thought sanding.
I do not recommed this mess for everyone, but its set up to suck Epoxy sanding dust. It ran like a champ.
I ran it for half an hour, on max, motor stayed reasonably cool, it runs out of the washer line, a 20 amp circuit, and it needs it. I need a new switch, some kind of remote, no chip collector is going to work on this bad boy, I tried it with a U path plenum box, duct taped together, and it just sucked it dry.
I am thinking about sanding hoods, made of light materials that hang,
or two hoses to a down draft table that sets on saw horses, made of light luan. Suck it clean from two ends.
I wonder how much I am losing due to the extra friction. It does seem like when I crack two blast gates, on the end of the run, after sanding, I will clean the system. Have to remember to put some magnets or magnetic tape in the sweeps, it got a small washer and whanged it into the bag.
The BT3 is on a that walking beam base, set as low as I could make it, and I made some copper coupling and 3/8 silver soldered screw jacks for the saw and other rolling tools, can level the saw out, and have a socket on a stick, to tighten them without bending over.
Floor is very wavy.
ideas or suggestions, or questions, feel free to mail me, I got the ideas from you guys so far, and its saved me a lot of trouble.
Wynn Environmental said the one down side to the paper filter might be in six months or more when its harder to clean due to the narrower pleats, then the poly filter would be easier to clean, and its air flow might be a bit better long term.
I do not know if this will work, attempting to put some pics in now.
out
NO NAME,storm in the early 90's, put nine ft of water in my area, so it got the tools, saw motors, and things collected over a long time. Water was deep enough I watched a horse swim by, and a house trailer go down in a nearby bay like a diving submarine. It all rolled out of a large utility enclosure, into a screen area. Wind was DC. That became history. It wore me out on working with tools for a while.
I had to have tools again. I had to build another shop, so I had to build half a house downstairs to do it. Its taken me two years.
Shot of house and 9x12 shed.
Detail of house and back deck with view of swamp out the back shop door. It has access in a tiny canal, to a four miie run to the Gulf of Mexico, or the backwaters. So shallow and rocky it has a real bad rep for killing motors.
Picture of the dual four SD rig, to the HF DC. When two gates are open, speeds up about 25%. Judged by the wild spin of the chips in the bag. I get to position the saw with the Shark on one of those rolling walking beam bases anywhere its most out of the way for a canoe or small boat build. I have built a few boats, and the sanding was deadly, so I will use the drops for sanding, and a 4 inch dust sucking sweep can be in the area I am sanding. The pipe is not glued, a few key pieces got some poly seamseal. I had to take it down once, and make a better plan. The gates have to have be fitted well with hacksaw cuts in the SD pipe edge, heated, then necked down to the pipe while soft with a clamp, and sealed with poly seamseal. The overhead gates need a screw in the top of the pipe, into the edge of the gate flange to keep them on if you yank the hose. The plastic gates are not that nice, but I am short on time.
The nice thing, is if I pop open a gate down the line on the overhead run, it sure cleans the pipes, A BT3 with a bottom pan, connected to the one run and the back and the Shark on the other, gets good flow. For critical tools, use two hoses.
Many times I thought, one six, then I thought sanding.
I do not recommed this mess for everyone, but its set up to suck Epoxy sanding dust. It ran like a champ.
I ran it for half an hour, on max, motor stayed reasonably cool, it runs out of the washer line, a 20 amp circuit, and it needs it. I need a new switch, some kind of remote, no chip collector is going to work on this bad boy, I tried it with a U path plenum box, duct taped together, and it just sucked it dry.
I am thinking about sanding hoods, made of light materials that hang,
or two hoses to a down draft table that sets on saw horses, made of light luan. Suck it clean from two ends.
I wonder how much I am losing due to the extra friction. It does seem like when I crack two blast gates, on the end of the run, after sanding, I will clean the system. Have to remember to put some magnets or magnetic tape in the sweeps, it got a small washer and whanged it into the bag.
The BT3 is on a that walking beam base, set as low as I could make it, and I made some copper coupling and 3/8 silver soldered screw jacks for the saw and other rolling tools, can level the saw out, and have a socket on a stick, to tighten them without bending over.
Floor is very wavy.
ideas or suggestions, or questions, feel free to mail me, I got the ideas from you guys so far, and its saved me a lot of trouble.
Wynn Environmental said the one down side to the paper filter might be in six months or more when its harder to clean due to the narrower pleats, then the poly filter would be easier to clean, and its air flow might be a bit better long term.
I do not know if this will work, attempting to put some pics in now.
out
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