A DC Experiment... (long)

[hermit]

I'll try from work as well.

Todd

[RodKirby]

A DC Experiment... (long)

A few guys have commented about free-hand routing and the problem of “uncontrolled” dust – particularly when routing MDF.

For those with a built-in DC on the router, this almost eliminates the problem. For those that don’t, like me, any solution which can reduce the dust, is a worthy cause.

In the past, I just clear the bench, suit up – mask, goggles, rout what I have to and then clean up afterwards. My recent post on the DP DC got me thinking about what I could do for the free-hand stuff.

I use my trusty Ryobi R-150 (12 years old and still going strong) for free-hand routing – it’s nice and light. I looked at making an on-board DC, but it would have been too cumbersome, and I didn’t want to have worry about wrestling with the Shopvac hose as well as controlling the router.

Dado Jig:
I have always used a simple t-square for dados – effective, but limited life and (the way I use it), needed rebuilding after the short tee got chewed up using different size router bits. This process always throws dust all over the Shed

So – this is what I came up with.

Long Tee arm:
- Intended to be “permanent”
- T-Track on the top, for a dust scoop and stops
- Sandpaper glued to the bottom, to help prevent any swing out of square
- 4 screw attachment to the short tee – no glue.

Short Tee arm:
- Replaceable
- Clamp pads glued on each end
- Holes drilled for storage.

Results: “Good” A lot less loose dust than there was. Most of what wasn’t sucked up by the Shopvac was at least directed towards the scoop.

Ready for the first cut:
Because the dado is to be “close” to the end, only one clamp pad can be used (typical). A ¾” MDF scrap is clamped against the long tee to brace it.





First pass complete (left to right).
Dado full of dust and stacked up against the scoop. Considerably less dust “thrown around”. Not planned, but the scoop provides an effective travel stop. It has to be far enough out to allow for the router handle.





Second pass complete (right to left)
Dado now clear and dust concentrated in the scoop.






Edge of the short tee now has an exact index for (in this case) an 18mm bit.




Stopped dado:
Scoop for rear stop, added stop at the front. Tee-square moved, both clamp pads in use.




Scoop:
Hose attach: 2 x ¾” marine ply laminated then glued and screwed to the base.





Scoop rear view (and stops):
Wrap-around to allow for it to be on or off the workpiece. Brass knob is to allow me to reach over and slide it up.





Back of the long Tee:
The sandpaper provides a very firm grip on the short Tee. I made 4 of the short Tees which will do me for a while. The drilling template was used on all pieces – including the long Tee.

[Roger109]

Outstanding,as always.And another to add to my Kirby catalog of things to make!

[leehljp]

Rod,

Can I get you to design one for my grand kids?

That is a great design! I will aspire to create something like that when I retire.

[TheChadNC]

Very Nice Rod!!! I am in need of a New Dado Jig and this is just in time.
If I may ask a couple questions.....

1. Could you make the one clamp pad run the entire length of the "T" on the back side to eliminate the need for the scrap block when routing close to the end?
2. What do you think about a piece of "Lexan" or "Plexi" placed at the DC end on a angle to deflect the dust downward and also concentrate the suction from the vac. It would kind of act like a funnel.

Psssst...Your shop looks a little dusty, you might want to get that swept up before someone sees it.

Another Great Idea Rod... Thanks for posting...

[RodKirby]

quote:Originally posted by TheChadNC


1. Could you make the one clamp pad run the entire length of the "T" on the back side to eliminate the need for the scrap block when routing close to the end?
2. What do you think about a piece of "Lexan" or "Plexi" placed at the DC end on a angle to deflect the dust downward and also concentrate the suction from the vac. It would kind of act like a funnel.

Hi Chad,

1. Not feasible - because of different thickness workpieces.

2. Good idea - for ease of gluing, I'll use a piece of pine.

(Trust me - the dust didn't sit there for long )

[Deadhead]

quote:Originally posted by RodKirby

quote:Originally posted by TheChadNC


1. Could you make the one clamp pad run the entire length of the "T" on the back side to eliminate the need for the scrap block when routing close to the end?

Hi Chad,

1. Not feasible - because of different thickness workpieces.

You lost me there, Rod.

How would the thickness of workpieces interfere with a 'rear' or 'backside' clamp pad (the one not used in your picture) if the clamp pad ran from the backside edge of the Short Tee Arm until it buts against the backside edge of the Long Tee Arm?

[TheChadNC]

Thanks for the better description Kevin. Thats exactly what I ment.

[crokett]

Rod,

Outstanding work once again.

[lrogers]

You are amazing Rod. Were you an inventor in a past life?????

[RodKirby]

Chad, Kevin -

Sorry, I misunderstood. I read "backside" to mean "underneath".

Yes, that would work.