Walnut project

[Bob0244]

Hi guys, I'm starting a new project using Peruvian Walnut, and decided to ask the forum for any info I might need re: cutting, gluing and finishing this wood.
I learned my lesson, after messing the staining of a birch project.
Thanks
Bob

[Black wallnut]

I've not worked with Peruvian walnut but have not had any difficulties with American Black Walnut. What is your project and please post pics.

[lrr]

Bob,

I am not sure about Peruvian walnut, but I would think you would not want to stain it, especially if it is like most other walnuts. A finish like polyurethane, varnish, shellac, or danish oil should give you a nice finish to what I am assuming is a beautiful wood in its natural state. My typical finish any more is a wipe-on polyurethane finish, since I cannot spray during the winter. I make my own, by just diluting regular polyurethane with mineral spirits. The commercial wipe-on on polys are pretty expensive compared to making your own. And you can fine tune the viscosity for what works best for you.

Your comment about birch made me think you might have had better results if the wood was conditioned first, before staining. I just used some from General Finishes on a project, and I had no blotchiness in the staining. I used cherry veneered MDF, and solid cherry, and was concerned about the veneer on the MDF, since I had no idea if it was mixed pieces, and that possibly it might take stain differently.

Here is a picture of the cherry "dog bowl stand" (I know, what a waste of wood -- but my daughter got her first dog, and is spoiling it miserably ...)

[Bob0244]

Walnut suggestions

Thanks for the suggestions Mark and Lee.
The project (for a friend) is simple enough, frames for two large mirrors (30"x45")
The frame will be 2.5-3" wide, 1" thick.
I have just bought the wood yesterday and decided to ask questions before starting, to avoid stupid errors, since it will be the first time using this wood.
From what I saw, the main differences between Peruvian and American Black Walnut, is the grain and color. The Peruvian is darker, uniform and mostly devoid of knots and the American has more knots, lighter color and some much lighter veins.
I have no photos yet, since the wood is neither planed nor cut yet.
The question about finishing was to gain maximum depth in color. I use Wipe-on poly for most projects, and will surely try it for this one as well. If you can suggest one for max depth of color, I will try it.
As for the gluing question, since these are large, heavy mirrors, I thought of using biscuits on the mittered corners, for reinforcement. Should I use carpenter's white glue, urethane or epoxy?
Thanks
Bob

[Bruce Cohen]

Lee,

How in the world can you say that the "dog bowl stand" is a waste of wood. That's one of the nicest pieces I've see in a long time. Regardless of its intended use, there are probably tons of things you can use it for (just don't tell your daughter I said that).
BTW, what did you use for the top? It looks like something more than just a laminate.

Again, I really don't care what others say, that's one fine piece of work and you shouldn't degrade yourself by calling it a "waste of wood""

Bruce

[scmhogg]

Bob,

I agree that no stain should be necessary. PW is slightly lighter and softer than Black Walnut. The difference is miniscule. I got some from Cook Woods that had a little figure that really popped with Danish oil. I coated mine with several coats of poly. Sorry no pics.

https://www.cookwoods.com/?s_cs=1&s=peruvian&x=18&y=6

Steve

[lrr]

Bob,

I find that carpenter's glue provides all the strength you could want for a good fitting joint. That said, if you use biscuits, and they are somewhat loose, I'd go with epoxy. I think biscuits are best for alignment, and not for adding strength. But epoxy would fill the gaps and provide a strong bond.

You might want to add splines instead. I built my daughter a corner china cabinet in maple, and used purpleheart for highlights. Here are splines in purpleheart. Of course, if you don't want the splines to stand out, you could certainly make them from the same wood as the picture frame.

[lrr]

Lee,

How in the world can you say that the "dog bowl stand" is a waste of wood. That's one of the nicest pieces I've see in a long time. Regardless of its intended use, there are probably tons of things you can use it for (just don't tell your daughter I said that).
BTW, what did you use for the top? It looks like something more than just a laminate.

Again, I really don't care what others say, that's one fine piece of work and you shouldn't degrade yourself by calling it a "waste of wood""

Bruce

Thanks Bruce, for your very nice comments on the dog bowl stand I guess what I really meant was that it was a bit over the top for a dog bowl stand. But, my daughter likes it, and if she ever wanted, she could use it as a plant stand or something similar. Don't get me wrong, I am pretty proud of it. This was my first project using my new Festool track saw. It is the most accurate box I've ever built. Since the tile needed to fit well, I designed it starting with the tile dimensions, and calculated the box size, with offsets for the top cap trim. The box is within 1mm in all dimensions.

The top is a piece of 8"x16" ceramic tile from Home Depot. It was the only one I found there, but it has a rough texture I like. I bought an extra for some other project that has not identified itself yet! The color that best describes it is "chocolate malt". Was cheap, too -- just a little over $2 each.

Bob -- sorry I highjacked your thread. My posting was supposed to be about my success with wood conditioner before staining.