How do I fix this whirligig propeller?

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  • atgcpaul
    Veteran Member
    • Aug 2003
    • 4055
    • Maryland
    • Grizzly 1023SLX

    #1

    How do I fix this whirligig propeller?

    Wife bought me a woodcutter whirligig for Christmas several years ago. One of my favorite presents--she's good like that.

    Anyway, in a severe wind/rain storm 2 summers ago, two of the propellers broke off. I'm going to build a new propeller rather than try to fix this one. What should I use for the blades? Looks like this is 1/8" plywood. How do I cut those angled slots to hold the blades in place?

    Thanks,
    Paul

  • cabinetman
    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
    • Jun 2006
    • 15216
    • So. Florida
    • Delta

    #2
    Originally posted by atgcpaul
    Wife bought me a woodcutter whirligig for Christmas several years ago. One of my favorite presents--she's good like that.

    Anyway, in a severe wind/rain storm 2 summers ago, two of the propellers broke off. I'm going to build a new propeller rather than try to fix this one. What should I use for the blades? Looks like this is 1/8" plywood. How do I cut those angled slots to hold the blades in place?

    Thanks,
    Paul

    If the slots are straight, you could cut them with a hand saw or a DT saw. If the slots are curved, you will have to make a jig to hold the core and the jig sets the angle for the router base to ride on at the angle across the core.

    .

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    • phrog
      Veteran Member
      • Jul 2005
      • 1796
      • Chattanooga, TN, USA.

      #3
      The blades appear to be curved from side to side. It might be easier to cut straight slots and jam the blades in the slots with wedges and glue. Otherwise, it appears to be a case where a jig must be made to cut the slots in a curve to match the curvature of the blades.
      Richard

      Comment

      • Lonnie in Orlando
        Senior Member
        • May 2003
        • 649
        • Orlando, FL, USA.
        • BT3000

        #4
        If you want to use the original hub, then try to pick out the broken pieces and make two new blades.

        If you want a new hub and new blades, I'm sure that the whirigig will turn with flat blades:
        > Start with a square block for the hub.
        > Add an extention to your miter gauge that is taller than the block and that extends past the blade.
        > Stand the block on end and set the miter gauge to match the desired angle of the slot.
        > Cut the slot in the center of each side of the square block. The mid-point of the slot should be in the center of the sides of the block. Make multiple passes to create the desired width for the blades.
        > Cut the square block into a round hub with a hole saw. The hole saw will also drill a hole in the exact center of the hub.
        > Cut four new blades and attach to the hub however you feel is best.

        - Lonnie
        OLD STUFF ... houses, furniture, cars, wine ... I love it all

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        • atgcpaul
          Veteran Member
          • Aug 2003
          • 4055
          • Maryland
          • Grizzly 1023SLX

          #5
          The slots are straight. The blades have curved over time.

          I guess I could do it by hand. Maybe start with a square block and then make round after the slots are cut. I guess this will be faster in the end rather than devising a jig to hold it at an angle and cutting on the TS.

          Comment

          • Stytooner
            Roll Tide RIP Lee
            • Dec 2002
            • 4301
            • Robertsdale, AL, USA.
            • BT3100

            #6
            I would cut the new slots with band saw. Just tilt your table by the degrees you want or just cut a wedge out of some 2 by stuff. Put a runner on it in a slot on your table if you have them. Then use a screw through the center to tighten the hub to the 2 by. Then you can cut as deep as you need. Might require a couple cuts.

            I have made a few over the years. I always started with a square block though and used a similar jig on a miter gauge. Once the slots are cut, then use a hole saw to cut out the hub.
            Lee

            Comment

            • rfisher7381
              Forum Newbie
              • Dec 2005
              • 59
              • Hudsonville, MI, USA.

              #7
              I made my blades using acrylic which I bought at Lowes. Doesn't warp or rot and paint stuck very well, also easy to cut on my bandsaw.
              Randy

              Comment

              • JoeyGee
                Veteran Member
                • Nov 2005
                • 1509
                • Sylvania, OH, USA.
                • BT3100-1

                #8
                Woodworking for Mere Mortals (Steve Ramsey) made a whirleygig from scratch last year. Slots look pretty simple to do:

                http://www.woodworkingformeremortals...t-winners.html
                Joe

                Comment

                • atgcpaul
                  Veteran Member
                  • Aug 2003
                  • 4055
                  • Maryland
                  • Grizzly 1023SLX

                  #9
                  Originally posted by rfisher7381
                  I made my blades using acrylic which I bought at Lowes. Doesn't warp or rot and paint stuck very well, also easy to cut on my bandsaw.
                  That is an excellent idea. I already have some that would be perfect. How did you secure them in the slot? Nail?

                  Originally posted by JoeyGee
                  Woodworking for Mere Mortals (Steve Ramsey) made a whirleygig from scratch last year. Slots look pretty simple to do:
                  That did look pretty easy. I'm going to have to check out his other stuff. Thanks.

                  Comment

                  • atgcpaul
                    Veteran Member
                    • Aug 2003
                    • 4055
                    • Maryland
                    • Grizzly 1023SLX

                    #10


                    Not bad for a little over an hour of work. I was evaluating my options for cutting the slots and actually set up the miter gauge on the TS but my blade is thicker than the plexi I had. So I made the initial cuts by hand, then widened them on my bandsaw.

                    Cut the plexi on the bandsaw and smoothed the edges with sandpaper.

                    One of the slots is a little sloppy so I'll squeeze silicone caulk in there. I plan to secure the blades with small nails after I drill a pilot.

                    I had a Doh! moment when I did the test fit of the blades. Can you spot it? I gave you a hint.

                    Paul

                    Comment

                    • jdon
                      Established Member
                      • Feb 2010
                      • 401
                      • Snoqualmie, Wash.
                      • BT3100

                      #11
                      Well, it looks like your new prop will spin in the opposite direction than the old one

                      Comment

                      • atgcpaul
                        Veteran Member
                        • Aug 2003
                        • 4055
                        • Maryland
                        • Grizzly 1023SLX

                        #12
                        Originally posted by jdon
                        Well, it looks like your new prop will spin in the opposite direction than the old one
                        Bingo. I'm sure the woodcutter needed a change in direction, too.

                        This is what happens when you haven't been in the shop for weeks. Earlier in the day I was working on a garden project and by the grace of LOML who agreed to kid duty, said go for it (but with the look of, git her done...don't spend all day out there)

                        Needed to cut some plywood. Using the proper thickness measurement was critical to making assembly easier. Anyway, turns out I had 3/4", not 1/2". It didn't even look right to me and I still cut it up. I was able to salvage it, but still annoyed at myself.

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