How to figure panel size

[gsmittle]

Since you stated that the panel isn't plywood, you're finding out that a solid wood panel needs some gap.

.

You're right, I should have phrased that differently. What I meant to say was the panel completely filled the frame, with no gap. This was on a practice frame & panel made of pine. I just don't want to screw up the maple, as I don't exactly have tons of extra for mistakes.

What if I planed the edges a bit if the panel's too large?

g.

[cabinetman]

You're right, I should have phrased that differently. What I meant to say was the panel completely filled the frame, with no gap. This was on a practice frame & panel made of pine. I just don't want to screw up the maple, as I don't exactly have tons of extra for mistakes.

What if I planed the edges a bit if the panel's too large?

g.

I would just use the table saw for some skim passes.

.

[JimD]

Most of my raised panel doors have been made with router table cope and stick bits. Mine put a molded edge on the same depth as the groove for the panel. So I dry fit the door and measure from the edge of the molding towards the opposite groove and my panel width is 1/8 inch into the opposite groove. For your 3/8 deep grooves, I would add 1/2 inch to the inside dimensions of the opening. I want enough panel it can bottom on one side and still be 1/8 into the opposite side. That is not a scientific way to figure out how much to allow for wood movement but it has always worked for me.

Without the molding I would measure the inside dimensions and add 1/2 inch for 3/8 deep grooves.

For plywood, I all 1/16 to 1/8 clearance for the overall groove bottom to groove bottom dimension. For 3/8 deep grooves, I would add 5/8 to 11/16 to the inside dimension.

I also finish my raised panels and the inside edges of the frame where they will not be glued prior to assembly. This helps to minimize wood movement but also ensures that there will not be an unfinished edge of a panel showing if it shrinks some later.

Jim

[woodturner]

Gluing rail and stiles takes a balance of enough. Starve the joint and it will come apart, but two or three drops too much might glue the panel. Not a problem for those with experience but something to watch for on the first time around.

Agreed, the right amount of glue is critical, and can be hard to measure. Experience helps, but for repeatable and reliable results, measuring the glue is a good way to go.

Glue syringes are available that are much like a medical syringe with a blunt tip. I have found that animal husbandry syringes from TSC are a less expensive option. It still takes some calculation or trial and error to figure out the correct amount, but once you do, you can easily apply the same volume of glue.

That's the primary reason the pro shops use glue injectors and measure moisture content to calculate panel movement on a daily basis, to achieve consistency and a quality product. Most of us hate call backs, and applying a more formal and scientific approach is a good way to achieve six sigma results.

Might be a bit "over the top" for a home shop, though. Wouldn't mind a CNC router in my home shop, though :-)