Stripping Polyurethane

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  • woodturner
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2008
    • 2049
    • Western Pennsylvania
    • General, Sears 21829, BT3100

    #16
    Originally posted by chopnhack
    Thanks all, I was trying to avoid anything toxic as the one of the wee ones gets respiratory stuff too easily.

    If I got to do the MC based stripper, I will, I like the fact that its quick, because I need to have the doors back up in operation asap, I don't want to have to build a temp. door.
    In my experience, MC stripper or caustic lye are about the only strippers that will touch cured poly.

    Have you considered taking the door to a commercial wood stripping company? They could strip it with caustic lye or other commercial strippers in an hour or less. They are usually pretty reasonable - it has been a couple of years since I have had to use them, but I think they charged in the range of $20 to strip a dresser carcase. They will get it done quickly and neither you nor your young ones are exposed to the carcinogens and toxic chemicals like MC.
    --------------------------------------------------
    Electrical Engineer by day, Woodworker by night

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    • chopnhack
      Veteran Member
      • Oct 2006
      • 3779
      • Florida
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #17
      Taking the door some where is more than likely not going to be feasible. There is nothing in my immediate area and I don't want the doors out of service for more than the day. I also am only needing to refinish the outside face so professional places with dunk tanks are out of the question.

      I read that the majority of the failures with the NMP containing products was due to the users not allowing enough time for the product to work. The finish on these doors is in such poor state that I think the citrastrip should have no problem lifting it, the surface is highly porous and crazed. And its only a thin layer.

      Thanks all!
      I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

      Comment

      • tlt
        Established Member
        • Jan 2006
        • 125
        • Tucson, Arizona.
        • Delta 36-682

        #18
        citrusstrip

        +1 on the recommendation for citrustrip....I used it last week to remove a thick layer of Minwax poly (3 coats) I put on a blanket chest 10 years ago. To maximize its effectiveness, I slather it on and cover it with plastic, like a drop cloth from the dollar store. I read that in a refinishing book, and it seems to work really well. Let sit for as long as you can, (usually 4+ hours for me), then scrape off with a plastic putty knife on straight parts, a rough towel on curves, and steel wool for any intricate parts.

        Good luck!

        Comment

        • chopnhack
          Veteran Member
          • Oct 2006
          • 3779
          • Florida
          • Ryobi BT3100

          #19
          Originally posted by tlt
          +1 on the recommendation for citrustrip....I used it last week to remove a thick layer of Minwax poly (3 coats).

          thanks for the feedback TLT, can you tell me whether or not the stripping affected the stain's color underneath?
          I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

          Comment

          • tlt
            Established Member
            • Jan 2006
            • 125
            • Tucson, Arizona.
            • Delta 36-682

            #20
            stain....

            Unfortunately, I don't have a lot of insight on how it affects stain -- the piece was just pine finished with poly. It took some light sanding to clean things up.

            Comment

            • chopnhack
              Veteran Member
              • Oct 2006
              • 3779
              • Florida
              • Ryobi BT3100

              #21
              no problem, thanks for the info. At worst if it ends up lightening up the existing stain, it will probably be countered with the wet look of the oil topcoat.
              I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

              Comment

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