Removing a Bartop finish

[BigguyZ]

OK, so I got lucky last summer and a neighbor was moving. He had an old tabletop made of old growth CA Redwood. The price just said Make An Offer. Well, I offerred $20 and he said OK.

It's been sitting on my front 3 season porch since then, and I had some people over. It raised their interest, and my brother said I should use it as-is. Now, I've actually been planning on cutting it down and using it as a top for a smaller table, but even though I initially thought that look wouldn't work in my living room, the idea's growing on me.

Anyways, the thing has a thick and slightly yellowish coating of bartop finish. I'd like to remove that and keep the top as flat as possible. I'd also like to get the edges stripped without damaging the original natural edges that still remain.

I'm attaching pictures of the top. It's about 64" long, and goes from 18"-36" wide. It's actually laminated, with the 1.5" solid redwood on the top, and 1.5" thick cedar on the bottom (glued it would appear).

I'd like potentially removing the cedar (which is also pretty mich cedar, from what I can see), but without cutting it in half and resawingthe two halves, I don't see how that's possible. So for now, I'll start with getting that horrible bartop finish off. I figure, if I really don't like the look of the solid piece as-is, I can still cut down the top. That's the beauty of woodworking, I think.

Another related question would be, how do I best design, build, and attach legs or some sort of base for this thing?

[BigguyZ]

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[woodturner]

Well, I offerred $20 and he said OK.

You suck

Anyways, the thing has a thick and slightly yellowish coating of bartop finish. I'd like to remove that and keep the top as flat as possible. I'd also like to get the edges stripped without damaging the original natural edges that still remain.

From the pictures, I'd guess the finish is polyurethane. If you don't mind the cancer risk and toxic chemicals, Methylene Chloride strippers should remove it. SoyGel and similar organic strippers would probably also work, but are less commonly available and are much more expensive.

Personally, I would use a hand scraper to remove the finish from the flat face of the top. It's safe and non-toxic and won't harm the would or alter the ph. You could use a scraper plane (Stanley 80 or equivalent) to make it a little easier, but it will still be a good bit of work. A power planer would also work and be a little easier, but there is risk of gouging the wood. I wouldn't recommend using a belt sander, too much risk of gouging. If you have a friend or can find a shop with a wide belt sander or wide planer, they could "dust" the surface to remove the finish. This would also flatten the top.

The edges are more problematic - no good way to do that with hand tools, so you would probably have to use a stripper to maintain the natural edge. You could try a heat gun - actually, if the finish is poly, a heat gun could work well on the top, too. Poly will normally bubble up and separate from the wood pretty easily with a little heat.

I'd like potentially removing the cedar (which is also pretty mich cedar, from what I can see), but without cutting it in half and resawingthe two halves, I don't see how that's possible.

If you can figure out what type of glue was used, you can probably chemically crystalize the glue and then carefully pry the pieces apart.

Another related question would be, how do I best design, build, and attach legs or some sort of base for this thing?

Design would be first, and presumably some kind of "modern" design. Might be worth checking with a local art school to see if they would be interested in a subject for a design class.

It may be tough to find matching wood, so you might want to use a contrasting wood for the legs. I'd be thinking in terms of some kind of free flowing amorphous shape and would build up a blank, then carve the leg out of the blank. I'd attach them with either a blind mortise or by attaching an apron to the top and the legs to the apron.

Hopefully that will give you some ideas to get you started.

[chopnhack]

I would agree with the scraping, lot of work and sharpening, but I doubt anyone with a wide belt planer would agree to sanding that thick of a finish off for you... I would think it would clog their belts in short order.

I second the apron, the top is thick and probably fairly hefty, the apron will better help counteract the racking forces, IMO.

[cabinetman]

Hard to tell what the finish is without seeing it up close. My guess is that it's not oil base polyurethane, but more likely a two part pour on epoxy. Depending on the brand, it may be removed with an MC based stripper, like "Aircraft Stripper" in the blue can. It can be found at dedicated auto paint and body stores.

For bases, I've used free form burl type growths, driftwood, tree limbs, cut slabs, or wood pedestals.

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[BigguyZ]

Cabinetman- I believe you are correct. That's what i meant by a bartop finish- since you see the pour ons commonly af the finish in a bar.

Are there any big box equivalents that I could pick up, or am I relageted to searching auto stores for the stuff?

Any additional thoughts on the possibility of removing the cedar layer, or am I stuck with the 3" thick top as-is. For the base, I'm thinking of something more traditional. I'm not looking for a modern look, given my house is a 1920's Arts and Crafts style home.

[cabinetman]

You might consider leaving that epoxy topcoat on. It's a durable coating. If you don't like the shiny look, it can be toned down and given a satin look with using a white Scotchbrite pad. It can be scuff sanded with 400x wet-or-dry and coated with waterbase polyurethane of any sheen (preferably sprayed).

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[BigguyZ]

Well it has some hefty scratches, and it looks like it's slightly yellowed. But most importantly for me- I hate that overly plasticised look. I would much prefer a decent poly that will show the grain more. That's just mu preference.