New shop doors

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  • Cochese
    Veteran Member
    • Jun 2010
    • 1988

    #1

    New shop doors

    In my long-term shop remodel, I've been focusing exclusively on the interior - replacing the walls, organizing the fixtures. Something I hadn't addressed were the doors. They are 1/2" ply with a couple of pieces of dimensional lumber to capture a lock. Only painted on one side, these have bowed outward, especially on the bottom. There's a big enough gap where animals can get in, not to speak of the cold.

    I took some time Friday to pick up some supplies - one sheet of 11/32" bead board ply, one sheet of 3/4" rigid insulation, and several boards each of the best 2x4 and 1x4 I could find.

    I cut the 2x4s to the lengths I needed and made half-lap joints where they met. I used my sweet new SCMS with its depth stop, plus my router with a straight cutting bit. After the frames were assembled with glue and screws, I cut a rabbet with the router and cut the beaded ply to size. I secured the ply with 18ga nails.

    Later this week I'll make a frame out of the 1x4s to surround the insulation, then 1/4" ply will probably cover the rear. I'll caulk, prime and paint then they'll get hung, perhaps before the end of the year.




    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
    I have a little blog about my shop
  • JR
    The Full Monte
    • Feb 2004
    • 5636
    • Eugene, OR
    • BT3000

    #2
    Sweet setup!
    JR

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    • chopnhack
      Veteran Member
      • Oct 2006
      • 3779
      • Florida
      • Ryobi BT3100

      #3
      Very cool CocheseUGA. Are you painting the inside this time as well? This may aide in not bowing out in the future as it will equalize the moisture loss per side. The insulation is an awesome idea. Will you be diagonally bracing? I know this cuts down on the insulation, but it strengthens the door. You may want to also beef up the attachment of the plywood, 18g nails from the outside only may be easily pried apart... sorry, but I tend to think in making things theft resistant...
      I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

      Comment

      • Cochese
        Veteran Member
        • Jun 2010
        • 1988

        #4
        I may paint the back side. What really caused the current doors to succumb to warping was the construction combined with the inequality in painted surfaces. The only thing that gave the doors any structural stability was where the doors met each other. With a full frame, these should do a lot better.

        As for security, the 1x4s will directly overlay the 2x4s, sandwiching the ply panel in place. Should do for any crimes of opportunity, anyway.
        I have a little blog about my shop

        Comment

        • Cochese
          Veteran Member
          • Jun 2010
          • 1988

          #5
          The foam core and it's border got put on this afternoon, along with a primary coat of paint on the outside surface.

          Detail of how the foam border overlays the outside frame.



          The back of the door, minus interior covering.



          Why I'm building them.



          You can really see how the lack of a frame really contributed to the warping. That 2x4 in the middle is the only thing not 3/8" ply on the whole door. It was only meant for keeping out the elements. While the new doors will only have a R3 rating or so, it's better than it has been.

          Tomorrow I add some caulk at critical joints, touch up some paint and they get hung. I'll go back for multiple coats once the weather is more cooperative.
          I have a little blog about my shop

          Comment

          • Cochese
            Veteran Member
            • Jun 2010
            • 1988

            #6
            Between last night and today, the new doors are on. I chose HD Stanley hinges that were more like regular door hinges with an anti-theft hinge pin. I used my fantastic little Craftsman multitool to remove the interior door stop after I removed the old doors. I hung the new doors and there was quite a bit of sticking along the top and bottom - I expected that. What I didn't expect with the different hinges was that I had an overlap of about a half-inch. Oops.

            Daylight running out on Friday, I attempted to quick mortise the hinges. It didn't turn out pretty, but I got about half-way to getting the doors closed - about the same as the old doors bowed out. Today I borrowed my power planer back and actually got to use it for the first time. Worked great. Took off about an 1/8" on the three sides of each door and they operate great. Some scrap hardwood along the top for a stop, and along the left side of the opening due to a slight gap. Locking hardware back on and it's right as rain.

            Speaking of rain, that's why my pic below is from Friday night when I was playing around with this shoe flash. I need to put some handles on the inside for working out there in inclement or cold weather, plus a post for the secondary door.

            Going to get up early and see if there's any significant temperature advantage to the doors being better built and insulated, plus eliminating the huge air gaps. Very happy with the result, and now I can go forward in 2013 with the interior work.

            I have a little blog about my shop

            Comment

            • Cochese
              Veteran Member
              • Jun 2010
              • 1988

              #7
              Better picture. I don't think I'll see any appreciable temperature benefits until I also replace the window.

              I have a little blog about my shop

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