Refinishing questions

[Sweet Willy]

I bought this table as is but I stink at two things: Identifying wood and refinishing. Someone really screwed up the top of this table. The sides and legs are fine. Where do I start with this project? What kind of wood am I working with and do I strip or sand or is there another more effective way to refinish the top? Thanks for any info.

[cabinetman]

It's hard to tell what species it is. It would be easier to tell if it was bare wood. But, it could be stained Birch. If it doesn't need major repair, you could just lightly sand with 320x, and use an oil base wiping varnish or polyurethane. If the top is veneered, you would have to be careful not to perforate the veneer if you take it down to bare wood.

Since you don't know what the topcoat is, you could use almost any film finish except for solvent based lacquer.

.

[Stytooner]

To me it looks like birch. Maybe something else. It also looks like veneer.
The only way to do the top IMO is to strip, then sand with fine paper only on a sanding block.
Then restain.

[BadeMillsap]

I'll throw my 2cents in ... remember ... opinions are like noses ... everyone has one and most people think yours looks funny ...

That looks like an oak veneer to me. I've refinished several similar pieces of furniture and it is MY opinion that in no case should you "sand" the veneer ... been there and had very poor results due to sanding thru the veneer. That being said, my preferred "stripper" is denatured alcohol and 0000 un-oiled steel wool + elbow grease. That generally works pretty well on OLD vanish finishes including things like Shellac.

If it's an old lacquer finish, it may take a more aggressive treatment ... maybe mineral spirits, or I have even used lacquer thinner.

ALWAYS wear protective (rubber) gloves and work in a well ventilated area (outside is good).

One caution --- my experience has been doing a "part" of a piece of furniture generally doesn't work ... the "old" & "new' finishes don't look the same in the end.

I usually "wash" the piece with alcohol after I think I'm finished to even out the look.

Good luck ....

Sent from my Transformer TF101 using Tapatalk HD

[leehljp]

If that table has been polished with polish cleaners with silicone in it - such as Pledge or the likes, you probably will need to get some "fisheye" conditioner to add to your finishes.

[cabinetman]

If that table has been polished with polish cleaners with silicone in it - such as Pledge or the likes, you probably will need to get some "fisheye" conditioner to add to your finishes.

If possible it's best to rid the contaminants from the piece and the area. Fisheye remover is silicone. Once you use it you will always have to use it. If you contaminate an area with silicone, it's likely you will never rid the area of it.

.

[leehljp]

If possible it's best to rid the contaminants from the piece and the area. Fisheye remover is silicone. Once you use it you will always have to use it. If you contaminate an area with silicone, it's likely you will never rid the area of it.

.

I agree 100%, it should be eliminated. However, Cab, you have the experience, but for me, There always is a "spot" that messes everything up. It has been about 12 -13 years since I made the mistake!

[cabinetman]

I agree 100%, it should be eliminated. However, Cab, you have the experience, but for me, There always is a "spot" that messes everything up. It has been about 12 -13 years since I made the mistake!

There's been some threads about this problem. You are right, I have experienced this situation. With determining the cause or causes I had to evaluate any and all products that had the propensity to be a problem. Some of the problems were fisheyes, lack of adhesion, discoloration, streaking, cracking, or just deformations in the finish coat.

In the quest, I had to eliminate products like waxes, which were a subject of member debate. So, I won't go into it here. But even for spot fixes, I would remove the piece from your working/finishing area to eradicate the possibility of contaminants of any kind. Sometimes just a good wipe down with mineral spirits might do it. A spot or small area fix is difficult enough, by trying to match a new fix to an overall finished piece, and having it all look alike.

.

[Sweet Willy]

It's hard to see in the pics but the finish on the top is wavey and has brush type waves as if something thick and gooey was spread over it. I'll take all of your advice and see what route I'll take. The other problem is that this is a tambour table just like a roll-top desk. To extend the table you just pull on both ends and it expands about two feet. Those things are going to be a booger to strip. Don't even want to think about that.

[Black wallnut]

Well to me it looks like birch. I'd also not sand. I'd use a stripper and then wipe with mineral spirits, that should remove any residue from Pledge if it has been used. I also agree with refinishing the entire piece. I say wipe it because once upon a time, many years ago, I built a coffee table once when my living room was part of my shop space and LOML thinking I was done with it put a coat of pledge on it while I was at work. Oh yeah the horrors! A call to the Pledge folks confirmed that a wash of mineral spirits would remove all residue. It did, and the poly finish came out great. That I think is also what C-man's approach is and yet does Hank's also has merit for sure. I don't think there is one right answer and if you try something and it does not work well you have other options. You might consider doing the easy first and if it doesn't work fresh finish should remove easy with a stripper then give Hank's advice a try.

[wardprobst]

I know this is a DIY bunch but I'd take that to a refinish shop and get a price on having it stripped. You could put on the new finish or have them do it. You are right, without a strip tank and gear doing that kind of table is tough.
DP