Dining table finish suggestions ... there's a twist

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  • BadeMillsap
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 868
    • Bulverde, Texas, USA.
    • Grizzly G1023SL

    Dining table finish suggestions ... there's a twist

    I have been given the opportunity (read challenge/request) to build a dining room table for my daughter and son-in-law. They are building their first home (been renters for 11 years or so) and want a customized table to fit their new dining area.

    I'm quite happy to accommodate the request, it will be a new building experience for me in many ways ...

    The "twist" is ... they are enamored with the "rustic/distressed" style of table often constructed from very old over sized doors and reclaimed materials. Among the several specification parameters are:

    1. It needs to be distressed
    2. It needs to have a NOT GLOSSY finish

    My fairly through research has revealed that buying reclaimed lumber is not cheap AND I'm really not sure if I would be satisfied with anything I made with it.

    I have determined that to get the grain they have indicated they are looking for, Cypress that is "flat sawn" would seem to fill the bill.

    I have located a source for the type and quantity of rough sawn Cypress I think I want at a price I can swallow. I've watched several online videos on "distressing techniques" and think I can achieve an acceptable "faux old/worn" look.

    What I am a bit concerned over is the finish I should use ... it's a dining room table and will thus get some fairly aggressive use over the years BUT ...

    they have specifically noted that they don't want a "glossy" finish ... the table in this attached picture is "too glossy" for their taste.

    So I ask this august community for suggestions ...

    Normally I would defer to my standby hand wiped poly but I'm not sure I can get it "not glossy" enough ... even "satin" seems too much in this case.
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    "Like an old desperado, I paint the town beige ..." REK
    Bade Millsap
    Bulverde, Texas
    => Bade's Personal Web Log
    => Bade's Lutherie Web Log
  • chopnhack
    Veteran Member
    • Oct 2006
    • 3779
    • Florida
    • Ryobi BT3100

    #2
    The distressing part should be really easy. Just don't do all the things you normally do in a project to protect the edges, corners and top from getting scratches, don't slavishly follow your sanding schedule, drop some heavy chains in places, dig into the top with a screwdriver or awl in some spots, intentionally sand through the finish in places before top coating, etc.

    As for top coat, being a table you do need a durable coating. Go with several layers of gloss poly for color depth and protection followed by a top coat of satin poly that you can further rub down to the desired sheen. That will give it the old world waxed look while still giving easily cared for protection.

    Best of luck on your project! Requested projects are so nice to have HTH
    I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

    Comment

    • downtheroad
      Forum Newbie
      • Mar 2007
      • 79
      • So. California
      • Ryobi BT3000

      #3
      Finish sheens are scaled from 0 to 100 (its reflectivity). The lower the number, the duller the sheen. A finish rated around 5 degree is called a Dead Flat. A finish rated around 90 degree is called a Gloss. Look for a sheen degree to match your preference: Dead Flat, Flat, Satin, Semi-Gloss, or Gloss.
      Tony

      Comment

      • cabinetman
        Gone but not Forgotten RIP
        • Jun 2006
        • 15216
        • So. Florida
        • Delta

        #4
        Originally posted by chopnhack
        The distressing part should be really easy. Just don't do all the things you normally do in a project to protect the edges, corners and top from getting scratches, don't slavishly follow your sanding schedule, drop some heavy chains in places, dig into the top with a screwdriver or awl in some spots, intentionally sand through the finish in places before top coating, etc.

        As for top coat, being a table you do need a durable coating. Go with several layers of gloss poly for color depth and protection followed by a top coat of satin poly that you can further rub down to the desired sheen. That will give it the old world waxed look while still giving easily cared for protection.

        Best of luck on your project! Requested projects are so nice to have HTH
        +1. That would work. A suggestion would be to know which Cypress is available. Most common species aren't that hard. If it's Australian Cypress, that would be suitable.

        .

        Comment

        • BadeMillsap
          Senior Member
          • Dec 2005
          • 868
          • Bulverde, Texas, USA.
          • Grizzly G1023SL

          #5
          CM ... I'm sure the Cypress I will have access to is "Texas Swamp Cypress" since the mill I buy from gets all of their wood from Texas sources.

          As far as hardness ... it's something I really hadn't considered ... the several tables we looked at that they liked were typically reclaimed Long Leaf Pine, "Cypress" from Mexico, and occasionally some Alder. I'll try to get a better handle on it when I go to the mill.
          "Like an old desperado, I paint the town beige ..." REK
          Bade Millsap
          Bulverde, Texas
          => Bade's Personal Web Log
          => Bade's Lutherie Web Log

          Comment

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