Finish for inside of the cabinets

[ivwshane]

I'm building some cabinets for my laundry room and the wife wants it to be a clear finish. I had plan on using a brush on lacquer and just applying it to a whole sheet of birch plywood since I didn't find anything local that sells prefinished sheets.

My question is; instead of using brushing lacquer is there any reason why you wouldn't using something that is meant for floors? Like a water based polyurethane?
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UCv5z6CsOSo

Wouldn't that be as durable and just as easy to put on if I plan on doing a whole sheet?

[cabinetman]

I'm building some cabinets for my laundry room and the wife wants it to be a clear finish. I had plan on using a brush on lacquer and just applying it to a whole sheet of birch plywood since I didn't find anything local that sells prefinished sheets.

My question is; instead of using brushing lacquer is there any reason why you wouldn't using something that is meant for floors? Like a water based polyurethane?
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1...1#.UCv5z6CsOSo

Wouldn't that be as durable and just as easy to put on if I plan on doing a whole sheet?

Yes it would, and I would recommend Parks Pro Finisher. There is a catalyst available for it, check in Home Depot. If you can spray it even better. Or, use a very short nap roller, and apply several thin coats. Sand in between applications with 320x.

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[jking]

Applying any finish to the entire sheet first might be easier, although, be prepared for the finish to get slightly damaged while you're cutting pieces to size. Just from handling, saw bases/tops rubbing, etc. It might make more sense to cut all of your pieces out & finish before assembly.

As for the type of finish you use, waterbased poly should be fine. I don't have experience with the one linked to in your post, though. Maybe someone else does & can provide an opinion. FWIW, I've used Minwax products in the past with no problems.

Ok, C-man chimed in while I was typing.

[ivwshane]

Would a foam roller be ok?

And exactly what would the catalyst do?

[cabinetman]

Would a foam roller be ok?

And exactly what would the catalyst do?

If you use a short nap roller, or a foam roller, be careful not to produce bubbles. You might try a sample first. Don't shake the container, but stir slowly.

I didn't see the catalyst available at the store's website, but if it's available on the shelf make sure there is mixing instructions. It's usually only available to the trade. It's basically isocyanate or aziridene. It acts as a crosslinker for a slightly faster dry, and is a modifier for the curing characteristics for a harder dry.

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[jussi]

Check to see if your lumberyard carries pre-finished ply. I know mine carries it for only $6 more than unfinished. I believe finish on only one side is even cheaper. Plus if you add the cost of the finish it turns out much cheaper for me. And looks way better than anything I can do.

[JimD]

I am making a cabinet for over my son's washer and dryer. It will be made like I did some built-in bookshelves. Most of the material is melamine covered particle board. It will get a face frame which will be painted white and hanger strips top and bottom also painted white. I tape between the solid wood and the melamine. You can easily see the seam but I think it looks OK. The advantage of the melamine is both cost and durability. Especially for a cabinet over the washer, a scrubable finish that can take the occasional spill seems like a good idea.

If I were to use plywood, I think I would finish the sheet first, at least two coats, and count on one additional after assembly. The advantage of pre-finishing the sheet is speed and quality. It is a whole lot quicker and safer to finish a large horizontal surface.

Jim