Bookcase Ideas - How to construct?

[jking]

I've been planning to build a bookcase for my oldest. I initially planned to have several shelves for books & things, but, the lowest shelf was going to be reserved for toys (probably a couple of plastic tubs). I had seen a couple of details at a furniture store that I'd like to incorporate (or do something similar), but, when I went back, the piece I saw was gone. I ended up seeing another piece that had another idea that I thought was neat & now I'm trying to figure out the best way to incorporate it.

I'm planning on making this a pretty basic bookcase. About 36" wide x 12" deep x 72" tall. Some of the shelves will be moveable, the middle one will probably be fixed. What I would like to do is provide some places on the sides of the bookcase for pictures, maybe a small bulletin board, etc. The piece I saw looked like it was covered in black melamine, so, the openings were probably just cut out & then the edges covered. I usually build this type of thing with plywood for stability, but, I'm not sure about this piece. I'd like to lightly stain & then finish with a clear finish (no paint), but, I'm not sure how to handle the cutouts for the pictures & stuff without having exposed plywood edges. Maybe it would be best to do solid stock & rail & stile type of construction?

[pelligrini]

All wood might be nice, you could still use plywood though. There are glue on edge strips you can use. Another neat look might be to trim the plywood cutouts and edges in a contrasting wood species, like with some 1/4" thin rips. I do like the look of Birch and Walnut.

[cabinetman]

What I would like to do is provide some places on the sides of the bookcase for pictures, maybe a small bulletin board, etc. The piece I saw looked like it was covered in black melamine, so, the openings were probably just cut out & then the edges covered. I usually build this type of thing with plywood for stability, but, I'm not sure about this piece. I'd like to lightly stain & then finish with a clear finish (no paint), but, I'm not sure how to handle the cutouts for the pictures & stuff without having exposed plywood edges. Maybe it would be best to do solid stock & rail & stile type of construction?

Could you explain what is meant by the openings were probably just cut out, and the edges covered.

And...cutouts for the pictures.

.

[Pappy]

Maybe route out the cut outs, glue in pieces of cork tiles, and frame the openings.

[JimD]

You may want to look on the "Plans now" website, they at least used to offer free plans for a bookshelf about the size you are talking about. It does not have cutouts but is pretty basic plywood construction with a face frame and some moldings top and bottom. I've built a couple of these and they work well.

If I was to cut openings in the sides, I would probably make up a jig and route them so I could leave the last 1/8 to 1/4 on the inside and then cover the edge with a shop made molding. I would make the molding edge L shaped so it would stick out a little proud of the plywood side. Frame and panel vertical sides would work too, of course. If the indentation from this is enough for what you have in mind it could be as easy as anything to do. I just make a groove about 1/2 deep and then put stub tenons on the rails. Doesn't take long at all to do.

Jim

[cwsmith]

At 36" wide, I'm afraid you are going to get some sag in the shelf, especially if you use plywood. So, plan for some reinforcement.

Is this going to be a standalone bookcase or one that is anchored to the wall? The height isn't terribly high, but you mentioned "toys" with possible tubs at the bottom and the books on the upper shelves. You didn't mention how old your "oldest" was, but I always have a concern with stability.

Are you planning on putting a solid back, or will it be open (against the wall or whatever)?

I have built quite a few bookshelves for our library, all at 86" in height and made of pine, which is painted. I do regret not being able to make these a much classier wood, considering the effort that must go into the construction either way. But of course "finishing" would take considerably more time. With my bookcases, I have built them so that at some point I could replace the Quaker-like raised panels and front corner trim should I win the lottery and be able to retrofit some class to that project.

In any case, my bookcases start with a sturdy box-frame base, to which I fasten simple vertical sides, which are drilled to take shelf pins (with support inserts). The very top and the middle shelf are fixed (fastened to the sides), with a 3-inch-wide, horizontal support crossmembers which prevent sway or twist. That is necessary, because the back is open against the wall and therefore lateral support is essential.

Regarding your "cutouts", I would probably approach them in the same manner that I did my "raised panels" (used on the sides where the cases are on either side of windows). I do not like "cutouts" in the sides of the bookcases, as (for me) they defeat the purpose of holding the books in place. My bookcase sides are solid, 1 x 10 pine, which I add a vertical corner molding to the front edge and then a simple vertical molding to the back edge, and fit my raised panel between the those two pieces, with appropriately horizontal framing pieces.

In your project, I would do the same but instead of the "raised panel", I would add cork or an appropriate material that would accept tacks or whatever you are envisioning.

Those two front corner moldings that I refer to, are fabricated from two pieces of stock to form a corner mold, with the piece on the side, rabitted to fit panel and/or whatever crossmember molding that I might employ. The back edge is just a single piece, also rabitted.

Unforntunately, I'm away from that house for most of the week, otherwise I'd snap a photo. I may have a SketchUp drawing though, can you use that?

I hope this is helpful,

CWS

[jking]

Could you explain what is meant by the openings were probably just cut out, and the edges covered.

And...cutouts for the pictures.

.

The bookcase I saw at the furniture store had openings in the sides for inserting pictures, basically built in picture frames.

[cabinetman]

The bookcase I saw at the furniture store had openings in the sides for inserting pictures, basically built in picture frames.

At 12" deep, by the time you do a cutout and add a trim piece for the opening, you'll have a small opening. If you start with sheet goods for a substrate, i.e., plywood, MDF, etc, cutting out openings will weaken the sides. If there is some type of trim that extends on the inside, you won't have smooth interior sides.

Structurally, you need to configure the cabinet to resist racking. If you want openings on the sides, I would suggest to make each side like a rail and style, and make a separate faceframe. When the vertical corners are glued together, that will help with torsional stability. I would rabbet the back edge and install a full back. That would minimize the propensity to rack.

.

[jking]

At 12" deep, by the time you do a cutout and add a trim piece for the opening, you'll have a small opening. If you start with sheet goods for a substrate, i.e., plywood, MDF, etc, cutting out openings will weaken the sides. If there is some type of trim that extends on the inside, you won't have smooth interior sides.

Structurally, you need to configure the cabinet to resist racking. If you want openings on the sides, I would suggest to make each side like a rail and style, and make a separate faceframe. When the vertical corners are glued together, that will help with torsional stability. I would rabbet the back edge and install a full back. That would minimize the propensity to rack.

.

I hadn't planned on large openings, anyway. The ones for the pictures would be sized for 4x6 photos. I'll have to figure out how to actually put the photos in and work from there.

When I refer to a bookcase, I figured a full back is implied. Apparently not.