Wood Stabilizer

[gsmittle]

I remember reading once about a product that would stabilize rotting wood (as long as it wasn't too rotten) but I can't for the life of me remember the name of the product. I'm hoping the BT Brain Trust can help.

I have a short stretch of framing in my shop that has some water damage (found it while moving some stuff a couple of days ago) and is a little soft, so I'd like to nip the rot in the bud ASAP. I already took care of the leak.

g.

[jdon]

Minwax Wood Hardener? It's a solvent based resin you brush onto the rotted wood, and it penetrates and hardens the wood. I got it at Home Depot.

I used it a couple of years ago on patches of a homebuilt utility trailer, and seemed to work okay. It doesn't work as a filler, but worked well enough that the rotten wood would support a lot of Bondo.

[bigstick509]

+1 on the Minwax hardener and filler, I used it last year to repair a bottom stile on patio door. The filler product is used after the hardener as I remember.
I do remember a two part epoxy product for this use but was unable to find it.

[cabinetman]

I remember reading once about a product that would stabilize rotting wood (as long as it wasn't too rotten) but I can't for the life of me remember the name of the product. I'm hoping the BT Brain Trust can help.

I have a short stretch of framing in my shop that has some water damage (found it while moving some stuff a couple of days ago) and is a little soft, so I'd like to nip the rot in the bud ASAP. I already took care of the leak.

g.

"Wood hardners" or "stabilizers" are a mix of solvents, like naptha and oil based varnish resins. You can mix your own batch with about a 1:1 mix. It's not a cure all, and any loose or crumbling wood should be removed along with surfaces that have paint or other finishes. A two part epoxy can also be used.

It may take a few applications, and it doesn't make a permanent repair that new work can be added without the consequence of further degradation.

.

[woodturner]

I remember reading once about a product that would stabilize rotting wood (as long as it wasn't too rotten) but I can't for the life of me remember the name of the product.

I think the products you have in mind are epoxy wood stabilizers. Here is one example:
http://www.advancedrepair.com/archit...woodrepair.htm
http://www.advancedrepair.com/archit...artssystem.htm

West Systems is another brand.

These products work well and will stabilze and strengthen the wood. However, they are expensive, and unless the wood is historic or not replaceable, replacement is usually a better option.

In your case, is the wood "soft" because it is wet, or is it already rotten? I would probably just dry the area and apply a borax mold inhibitor, unless the wood is already rotten. If already rotten, it should be replaced - it will tend to continue to rot if any rotten material is left.

[BigguyZ]

I use wood stabilizer to try to reduce issues with pen blanks.

As noted, you can buy the minwax stuff, or better yet make your own. Go to your local window shop or hardware store, and ask them for their plexiglass cut-offs. I got a TON from my shop for free. Then, cut up the plexiglass to as small of pieces that you can safely cut on your TS. Be careful, plexi can shatter on the saw, and it get everywhere.

Then, place the pieces in a vessel- I use cleaned pickle jars. Then, fill the vessel with acetone. The acetone will dissolve the plexiglass and create a mixture some people call plexitone. if you fill the jar with plexi as much as you can, then fill with acetone, you'll get a pretty thick batch. You can use this to create other less-vicous batches. The thick stuff can be used as a finish of sorts (some use it for pens), and the thinner stuff can be used for the stabilizer. Depending on the application, you can tweak the mixture to give you the consistency you want. For instance, if you want to treat MDF a thin solution will soak right in. But, if you want to harden and fill a gap, a thicker solution will evaporate less off, and have some gap filling properties.

[chopnhack]

Very cool Bigguyz.. never thought of that before! Does it cause any swelling of the mdf? Does it leave the mdf slick? Awesome idea!!

[BigguyZ]

Can't say it was my idea, but it definitely works. I haven't noticed any swelling. As far as leaving it slick, I'm mostly ued it to seal "end grain" for MDF, and it absorbes rediculously fast. So it doesn't leave any noticable finish build-up.

[leehljp]

+ one for BigguyZ's suggestion. I have used that method also as have other pen turners.