I have some MDF drawer faces routed for my latest Euro kitchen cabinet project and now I need some paint recommendations. These drawers store canned goods, so I need a tough durable finish. The paint samples of Rustoleum 2 part epoxy garage floor finish that were on display at the Borg were kind of what I was looking for, except my wife wasn't real keen on gray or tan (even with speckled color flakes). My test is like Melamine, the surface has to be able to
stand up to a scratch attack with car key. The RustOleum laughed at my car key but a nearby oil based sample was demolished.
I sent out emails to a number of major paint companies. Responses against using a one or two part epoxy on MDF included:
-we can't recommend our epoxy product on wood because have have only tested it on concrete or metal;
-it might dissolve the MDF
-if you use it on MDF we'll send the paint police after you
-if you use it on MDF a cold fusion reaction may occur that would take out the city block.
...ok so I am kidding a bit about the last two. I did get some positive responses. One from RustOleum for their 5300 industrial epoxy product and another one from Bejamin Moore for their waterbased M43 two part with M09 primer. I am running some tests of some Diamond Vogel 2 part and another on some one part Behr garage floor.
Anybody know how the Pro's do it? I took a look at my existing Euro doors that are being replaced and there seems to be a mix of technologies. One of the doors had a Melamine backing and some coating on the front. On some doors, you can see where the finish (paint? with brushmarks) is wearing off in areas of high use around the knobs. I have two teenage boys so household surfaces generally wear at a rate of 10x a DINK household. Yet other doors had a durable hard thick plastic coating that looked like new. Finish quality also varied where in some cases, the manufacture hadn't heard about the invention of sand paper. I also discovered a set of coating cracks on another door (the boys probably running some unsupervised impact experiments).
I am thinking Oil base and Latex won't cut it because they are too soft...? They won't crack, but they will be easy to ding. What about water based Acrylics? or a Saturn body panel? I am also going to ping my model airplane buddies for finishing suggestions.
There have been some good threads on BT3 about using glue and spackle for fillers on the routed surfaces. Some other people have used RustOleum One Touch spray cans and have gotten a good finish. If anybody has some secret sauce, I am open for suggestions.
-Nick
stand up to a scratch attack with car key. The RustOleum laughed at my car key but a nearby oil based sample was demolished.
I sent out emails to a number of major paint companies. Responses against using a one or two part epoxy on MDF included:
-we can't recommend our epoxy product on wood because have have only tested it on concrete or metal;
-it might dissolve the MDF
-if you use it on MDF we'll send the paint police after you
-if you use it on MDF a cold fusion reaction may occur that would take out the city block.
...ok so I am kidding a bit about the last two. I did get some positive responses. One from RustOleum for their 5300 industrial epoxy product and another one from Bejamin Moore for their waterbased M43 two part with M09 primer. I am running some tests of some Diamond Vogel 2 part and another on some one part Behr garage floor.
Anybody know how the Pro's do it? I took a look at my existing Euro doors that are being replaced and there seems to be a mix of technologies. One of the doors had a Melamine backing and some coating on the front. On some doors, you can see where the finish (paint? with brushmarks) is wearing off in areas of high use around the knobs. I have two teenage boys so household surfaces generally wear at a rate of 10x a DINK household. Yet other doors had a durable hard thick plastic coating that looked like new. Finish quality also varied where in some cases, the manufacture hadn't heard about the invention of sand paper. I also discovered a set of coating cracks on another door (the boys probably running some unsupervised impact experiments).
I am thinking Oil base and Latex won't cut it because they are too soft...? They won't crack, but they will be easy to ding. What about water based Acrylics? or a Saturn body panel? I am also going to ping my model airplane buddies for finishing suggestions.
There have been some good threads on BT3 about using glue and spackle for fillers on the routed surfaces. Some other people have used RustOleum One Touch spray cans and have gotten a good finish. If anybody has some secret sauce, I am open for suggestions.
-Nick
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