I used a piece of white bathroom wallboard (coated Masonite) as the base and a radiata pine 1x2 for the fence. The 1x2 was glues and screwed to the base. I used the edge of the plywood sheet I was wanting to cut with the new sawboard to ensure that the 1x2 was being fastened down straight.
I like thin bases and low fences, but not too low. I can do tapered cuts on thicker material (like a 2x12) with a tin base and short fence. A thicker base lessens the depth of cut with a 7 1/4" blade. The motor of my inexpensive Skill also overhangs my fence. I can't lower the blade all the way.
I use a couple quick grips to hold the sawboard in place.
I like thin bases and low fences, but not too low. I can do tapered cuts on thicker material (like a 2x12) with a tin base and short fence. A thicker base lessens the depth of cut with a 7 1/4" blade. The motor of my inexpensive Skill also overhangs my fence. I can't lower the blade all the way.
I use a couple quick grips to hold the sawboard in place.
It's looking more and more that KISS will win this round of design. I think 8' with cutoff of ply as a fence will win and spring clips to hold down, I agree with you Jim, I never had issues using my existing board which is only 8' either starting or ending - the biggest failure on my original sawboard was not leaving a wide enough base board for clamping, the router side will give me enough room. I was just looking for something to incorporate some automatic or near enough clamping feature. 
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