Mohawk Ultra Stain and Lacquer

[fastfoodkills]

Dear BT3'rs,

When using dyes as toners in Lacquer, do you also add it to the sanding sealer stage? I'm using Valspar's 275 a low-voc acetone based Nitrocellulose lacquer with a Mohawk Ultra Penetrating Stain (which behaves more like a dye due to its transparency).

Some background info:

For weeks, I've been putting together cabinets for our kitchen remodel. They are simple frame-less boxes with a 3/4 x/ 3/4 cherry edge and will eventually have a Shaker type door and drawer font.

I found a nice product made by Mohawk: "Ultra Penetrating Stain", which is a transparent dye and states that it can be used as a toner. With some basic experimenting, I was able to get a nice looking sample that doesn't obscure the grain and natural color, but darkens it just enough for the LOML.

Best Regards,

Tom

[fastfoodkills]

I nearly forgot: could someone please review and comment on my finishing program? It may be more work than is required so I'd love to keep it as simple as possible as I tend to spend too much time fussing with the dreaded sanding stages!

Cherry 4/4
80 grit - remove machine marks
120 grit
180 grit
220 grit

sanding sealer - 1 coat to raise the grain
(add the dye to sealer???)

220 grit with a light touch

2 coats - Valspar 275 lacquer#60 gloss

no sanding or light 320 between coats

[downtheroad]

Don't add color to the sanding sealer. When you sand it, if you have it tinted, you wont be able to keep the sanding consistent enough to keep the color even.

[cabinetman]

I nearly forgot: could someone please review and comment on my finishing program? It may be more work than is required so I'd love to keep it as simple as possible as I tend to spend too much time fussing with the dreaded sanding stages!

Cherry 4/4
80 grit - remove machine marks
120 grit
180 grit
220 grit

sanding sealer - 1 coat to raise the grain
(add the dye to sealer???)

220 grit with a light touch

2 coats - Valspar 275 lacquer#60 gloss

no sanding or light 320 between coats

Your grit regimen is OK up to 180x...I stop there.

If staining (I don't usually stain Cherry) I do that next (or dye).

Apply sanding sealer (usually more than one application).

Sand with 320x.

Spray topcoats. At this stage, if no stain or dye was used on the bare wood, some can be added to do toning.

Sand with 320x between applications.

Add final application. Mix in stain/dye if needed to blend/tone to taste. Your final application may be good enough for "off the gun" finish. If not, some rubbing may be in order. I don't use any wax.



.

[fastfoodkills]

Great advice. Thank you both.

The Mohawk product behaves like a dye. It's very transparent and does not seem to obscure - especially when cut with a reducer (acetone).