Which Sandpaper Grit

[conwaygolfer]

do I use before applying stain? I am making a 48 inch vanity and want to stain it a dark cherry. The wood is Maple (cabinet grade) plywood. Should I use 100, 120 or more before applying the stain? I just finished with 100 grit and not sure if that is enough. I have the main cabinet pretty much done (still have to make the drawers),but have not started on the doors yet.
Thanks in advance.

Conwaygolfer

[cabinetman]

I would use 150x - 180x. Try a sample.

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[cork58]

Like C man said, try a scrap of 150 on one end and 180 on the other. Time your stain so you know how long you left it on. Don't go over 180 IMO. What will you be doing for a final finish?

[pelligrini]

You didn't mention how you were sanding it, block, ROS, finish sander etc.. I like doing the final sanding by hand. It lessens the likelihood of me leaving swirl marks. Be sure to really clean the surfaces between grits. A couple left over loose grits can make a mess if they get under your next set of papers. Making light woods dark has been tough for me. I'll often get some blotchy results. Dark stains can make sanding imperfections pop out a lot more too.

I prefer making larger samples, but not huge. Separate pieces that I can lay over each other to compare seem to work better. I've got some hardwood samples with different finishes on each side and sometimes I wish I could see both at once.

[mpc]

A lot depends on the type of stain you plan to use - dye based, pigment based, gel stains, oil, or water base. If you are using ready-to-use stain (in a can), the label probably has a note about sanding grits. Generally though going beyond 180 grit for stains is not recommended. And of course don't sand through the veneer of your plywood!

The finer the grit, the less the stain tends to penetrate - which tends to make the final results lighter. This is a common trick for exposed end grain since end grain tends to absorb a lot more stain than face grain and thus comes out darker: sand it 2 grit levels beyond what was used for face grain to compensate. Finer grits also reduce the contrast in the grain/figure.

Make some test pieces varying sanding grit levels, face vs. end grain, time the stain was allowed to sit before wiping, etc. Those are all variables you'll want to practice with before doing the project. Start with scraps of same-type wood but not project offcuts if you can until you get the final color close to what you want... then fine-tune using project offcuts. Since wood can vary from board to board, save your project offcuts for the final tuning - don't waste them on the initial trials. This is what I did on a recent entertainment center cabinet; I must have tried somewhere around 20 to 30 combinations of stain, sanding, final finish material, etc. before I got the contrast and color to what I wanted. I have lots of 6 inch square samples... with notes written on each one so I was able to avoid the "this one is best... what was the recipie again?" problem.

mpc

[herb fellows]

What mpc said. That is always my goal, and somewhere along the line I usually mess it up because I get distracted from the project in some way.
Try to set aside a block of time where you won't be disturbed.
Be diligent about making your notes so you know exactly what works in the end.
And, as alway, pictures when you are done please!

[conwaygolfer]

I went with the 180 paper.

I am using a Bosch orbitol sander (takes a quarter sheet).
I used a brush to apply the stain (Sherwin Williams brand) and then wiped it off with wiping towels. I did the main unit yesterday along with the drawer fronts. Just finished the doors.
The stain from yesterday is still a little wet. Can I use a heat gun or fan to hurry it up?
There are a few areas darker and lighter, but to me it gives it some character.

I am leaving the drawers and inside unit natural so it won't be so dark inside.
I will finish it all with either sprayed on lacquer or poly. I have been using water based so I will probably give it a try.

Here are a few pics thus far.

Thanks,
Conwaygolfer

[cabinetman]

It looks good so far. I wouldn't use a heat gun. I would let it dry on its own.

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[conwaygolfer]

A few more

pics of the completed vanity. This was done for a lady I go to church with. She had me install the tile on the walls and floor and also on the vanity top.

The vanity was stained Red Chestnut and I used full extension glides on the drawers. The finish is 5 spray coats of lacquer (satin) The tile on the top is the same as I put on the walls.
The drawer fronts are solid maple.

Thanks,
Conwaygolfer