Some progress on a new dresser

[atgcpaul]

Nice work so far. The grain looks great. What are you planning to finish the insides of the drawers and cabinet with? I would not recommend using an oil base finish as it will stink for a long time, and stink up whatever is inside. I would go with lacquer, or a waterbase polyurethane (preferred).

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Thanks guys.

I am pleased with the grain, too. Both ends and the middle came from 3 consecutive boards from the tree I milled. That crazy grain at the bottom took a lot of work to get flat and surfaced. There is a stripe of sapwood that I think I successfully concealed on the outside faces with dye but I need to work on those inside faces some more. It looked OK before I hit it with varnish but now it sticks out.

The last dresser I did, I think I wiped the inside with shellac to seal in the stink. That seemed to work so I'll probably do it again. I don't remember how I did the drawers. I think I finished the drawers with oil and then wiped on the shellac. The bottoms aren't in the drawers yet so I'll just finish those with shellac, no oil.

When you say lacquer, do you mean waterbased? How do the pros do it? I talked to a refinisher because I was thinking about outsourcing the finishing (he never got back to me) but he uses precat lacquer and I'm fairly certain it's not WB. How do they eliminate the smell? Just give it time?

That's looking really nice. Can't wait to see the finished product!

Me, too!

[cabinetman]

When you say lacquer, do you mean waterbased? How do the pros do it? I talked to a refinisher because I was thinking about outsourcing the finishing (he never got back to me) but he uses precat lacquer and I'm fairly certain it's not WB. How do they eliminate the smell? Just give it time?
Me, too!

I was referring to "lacquer"...a solvent base (lacquer thinner/acetone) finish. It dries very fast and the odor flashes off. I quit using lacquer several years ago, and went to a waterbase polyurethane. It doesn't have any odor to speak of, doesn't blush, dries fast, available in the same sheens as lacquer, stays clear, and an easy clean up.

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[jking]

I was referring to "lacquer"...a solvent base (lacquer thinner/acetone) finish. It dries very fast and the odor flashes off. I quit using lacquer several years ago, and went to a waterbase polyurethane. It doesn't have any odor to speak of, doesn't blush, dries fast, available in the same sheens as lacquer, stays clear, and an easy clean up.

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I'm not trying to derail the thread, but, I'm curious what the reason was you switched from laquer to waterbased poly? Was it the low odor & easy clean up?

[NewDIYer]

Great job!

I am new to this forum (already had great help from Loring) and owner of a new BT3K (used). I look forward to one day make something like this.

[chopnhack]

Kids have that effect on projects Paul! I did warn you didn't I? Don't rush, you have a really fine piece there. For some reason I sometimes lack the attention to detail on the second or third replication of a piece. I think it has something to do with the first one being exciting and you really don't want to louse it up but by the second, eh. been there done that type of thing.

[cabinetman]

I'm not trying to derail the thread, but, I'm curious what the reason was you switched from laquer to waterbased poly? Was it the low odor & easy clean up?

There were many reasons, and all seemed to be of equal importance, but the health issue was on top. Solvents are very toxic, It's not only the effects from inhalation, but subjection to skin and any orifice...eyes, ears...etc. My subjection was daily, over many years. Acetone based solvents are the worst IMO, which includes contact cement.

From all the years of using those products I have developed some nerve damage in my hands and fingers, tendonitis, and breathing problems. The upside to WB poly is as I previously stated that it's not as toxic, doesn't blush, stays clear, dries fast, and easy clean up. It makes for a fine finish, IMO comparable to lacquer if applied properly.

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[jking]

Thanks for the explanation. I tend to use primarily WB finishes due to low odor & cleanup. It's been recommended to me to still wear some kind of breathing protection even with WB finishes.

[atgcpaul]

I can see the light at the end of the tunnel!

I don't remember when I started this project--probably July 2011, but I do know this thread started Aug 2011. The finishing has really been dragging as well as decisions on other subtle details. I decided to heck with a bunch of worry and just do it.

I brushed WB lacquer over the oil based varnish on the inside and outside of the carcass. Have a few touch up spots to take care of then I can do my final rubout.

Drawers that fit last summer were a little more snug now that there're a few layers of finish so had to do some fettling on those with a handplane. The drawer fronts were a little boring so I routed a little half round on the top and bottom edge of each drawer. I messed up the top, right drawer and had to add a patch the length of the drawer. I like the detail.

This morning I taped off the drawer fronts and wiped on the first coat of varnish. It's chilly in the garage so hopefully it will dry enough today so I can get another coat on.

A whole lot more finishing to do. I also have to build the back which will be ship lapped boards.

[JimD]

Looking great!

Jim

[cabinetman]

It might benefit you to stick with a WB finish in lieu of an oil base.

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[atgcpaul]

It might benefit you to stick with a WB finish in lieu of an oil base.

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I haven't found a WB finish that warms up the wood like an oil based one does. I also have various finishes--oil based and water based-- that I want to use up before I commit to a switch. Finally and almost most importantly, these are the devils I know.

I really would like to switch to a WB finish that gives me the look of oil--just haven't found it yet.

[cabinetman]

I haven't found a WB finish that warms up the wood like an oil based one does. I also have various finishes--oil based and water based-- that I want to use up before I commit to a switch. Finally and almost most importantly, these are the devils I know.

I really would like to switch to a WB finish that gives me the look of oil--just haven't found it yet.

I can identify with your ideals. IMO, it's how and what was done BEFORE the top coating goes on.

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[chopnhack]

I agree with Paul, I seem to notice a difference with oil based products. I hate to use them because of the smell and dry time, but I believe the perceived difference may come from the "oils" penetrating and perhaps creating some chatoyance where the water based wouldn't. Just my thoughts...

Good for you Paul, I haven't been able to get much done this year either ;-) and your work and materials are of much higher caliber. Keep at it!

[cabinetman]

I agree with Paul, I seem to notice a difference with oil based products. I hate to use them because of the smell and dry time, but I believe the perceived difference may come from the "oils" penetrating and perhaps creating some chatoyance where the water based wouldn't. Just my thoughts...

That's why I suggested what is done before the topcoat goes on. Grain and color can be "brought out" with a BLO/MS mix, which has the same effect as the oil content in an oil base topcoat. The actual appearance of the topcoat can be very similar as to the sheen involved. Personally, I like the control of the appearance in using a WB poly, as all my coloring and appearance that I want isn't changed by the topcoat, as it would with an oil base topcoat.

If the topcoat needs a little help with coloring, it can be tinted.

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[chopnhack]

That's why I suggested what is done before the topcoat goes on. Grain and color can be "brought out" with a BLO/MS mix, which has the same effect as the oil content in an oil base topcoat. The actual appearance of the topcoat can be very similar as to the sheen involved. Personally, I like the control of the appearance in using a WB poly, as all my coloring and appearance that I want isn't changed by the topcoat, as it would with an oil base topcoat.

If the topcoat needs a little help with coloring, it can be tinted.

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I reread the entire thread and I am glad that you posted this to clarify, because other than alluding to "it's how and what was done BEFORE the top coating goes on" I wasn't sure what you were implying. The BLO/MS is a great compromise to still get the look without the dry time? In your experience, what is the dry time?