Sailboat Locker Doors Finish

[bmyers]

Hi folks,
Was wondering if there are any sailors out there who have had good experiences with a marine finish that gets a pounding. I'm making some cockpit locker lids out of marine grade mahogany edged with mahogany. I need a finish that would have high UV protection as they are outside all the time and often get wet.

I tried some Spar Helmsman a few years back on the breezeway hatch and it held up ok but is starting to dull and get chalky already, UV damage it seems.

Anyone use Sikkens ? Which one?

Thx,
Bill

[sailor55330]

I lived in Houston TX and had a cruising sailboat on Galveston bay for several years. Brightwork was always a challenge. The 3 top choices for finish in that area among sailors were Helmsman spar varnish, Cetol, and Teak or Tung oil. Each have their own advantages and disadvantages. In my opinion, the spar varnish gives the wood the best look, but takes the most prep work. Cetol always reminded me more of paint and gave the wood a strange orange color, kind of like a fake tan but it did seem to last a little longer than the varnish---6 months maybe? The oil rubs needed to be applied more often, but were less work.

If you are getting 2 years out of a spar finish, then I wouldn't be to upset. 3 coats of anything in the Houston marine environment might get you 1.5 years if you were lucky. Doing brightwork on a boat in a marine environment is part of the labor/joy/pain/misery of owning a boat.

[cabinetman]

I've given up on spar varnishes and spar urethanes. When they fail they are a PITA to refinish, and they all fail. I used Interlux Schooner on a front Mahogany door I made, and it failed the first year.

I would go with an oil finish, and Penofin red label has high UV protection. Its an easy maintenance finish.

.

[Stytooner]

I agree with the oil over other type finishes. I remember on the shrimp boats I was on, that every trip out, we had to oil the woodwork. Interior cabinetry and wheel house always got Old English oil. Exterior stuff was some other type oil. Probably tung or linseed. It was heavy.
That said, if you wanted a different type finish and wanted it to last longer, you could use a cover over it until you use the boat. Then stow the covers.
Lots of UV blocking materials could be used for covers.
It will take work either way you go. Boats are high maintenance items. No way around that unless you have lots of money and hire all the upkeep out.

[bmyers]

I lived in Houston TX and had a cruising sailboat on Galveston bay for several years. Brightwork was always a challenge. The 3 top choices for finish in that area among sailors were Helmsman spar varnish, Cetol, and Teak or Tung oil. Each have their own advantages and disadvantages. In my opinion, the spar varnish gives the wood the best look, but takes the most prep work. Cetol always reminded me more of paint and gave the wood a strange orange color, kind of like a fake tan but it did seem to last a little longer than the varnish---6 months maybe? The oil rubs needed to be applied more often, but were less work.

If you are getting 2 years out of a spar finish, then I wouldn't be to upset. 3 coats of anything in the Houston marine environment might get you 1.5 years if you were lucky. Doing brightwork on a boat in a marine environment is part of the labor/joy/pain/misery of owning a boat.

Yes the brightwork is part of the joy/pain/misery of it all. Being a woodworker I really don't mind the maintenance every few years. I'm replacing locker lids that are older than I am so no complaints there. Just want to use the best I could while I'm at it. The spar finish, though chalky is not cracking yet, just looks a little tired and will be a PITA to refinish.

I think the Penofin oil idea might be best for me if it's just a "wipe it on again" when it starts looking tired approach. Never used it. I'm guessing that it won't effect the glue between the edging?


Covering the boat with a tarp over the boom is my new game plan as well. Tarps are cheap and easy to replace once the sun has had it's way with them.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Bill

[sailor55330]

Ultimately, covers are the answer. Have you looked into having some custom covers made from Sunbrella (or other UV resistant material)? If you have access to someone who can sew even a little, you can make a set of covers that will easily triple the life of any finish you own. I had snap on sunbrella covers and was usually able to get away with 3-4 years on a well prepped, spar varnish surface.

Much easier to store than tarps also.

[jnesmith]

I've given up on spar varnishes and spar urethanes. When they fail they are a PITA to refinish, and they all fail. I used Interlux Schooner on a front Mahogany door I made, and it failed the first year.

I would go with an oil finish, and Penofin red label has high UV protection. Its an easy maintenance finish.

.

Aren't varnishes (whether poly, or non-poly, and whether spar, or not) oil finishes? What is the difference between them and the Penofin? No resin in the Penofin?

[cabinetman]

Aren't varnishes (whether poly, or non-poly, and whether spar, or not) oil finishes? What is the difference between them and the Penofin? No resin in the Penofin?

Yes, no resin (varnish). Does not form a film.

.

[bmyers]

Ultimately, covers are the answer. Have you looked into having some custom covers made from Sunbrella (or other UV resistant material)? If you have access to someone who can sew even a little, you can make a set of covers that will easily triple the life of any finish you own. I had snap on sunbrella covers and was usually able to get away with 3-4 years on a well prepped, spar varnish surface.

Much easier to store than tarps also.

Actually I do sew. I re-made all the cushions for the boat. Even made my own piping. Having a boat exercises more than just woodworking skills. I do see a Sunbrella cover in my near future. I just want to finish one thing before starting another, these locker covers.

I was able to find some Sikkens product similar to the Penofin stuff so I'm going give that a try.

Thanks for the suggestions folks. Perhaps I'll post a pic when I have them finished.

[Squid]

Sikkens

I have used the Sikkens products on my log house. It is in the NC mountains and is exposed to the elments of the mountain winters (Snow, rain, etc.). It was applied about 5 years ago and so far it has shown very little wear. My painter tells me most log houses not using Sikkens have to be recoated in about 3 years. I don't know how salt water might affect it.