Router table plates?

[RJD2]

I am going to build a router table, and wanted some opinions concerning router table plates. I was leaning towards an aluminum plate from Rockler in the following link.
Has anyone used this plate? Any other ones worth considering in this price range? Also, are the templates worth purchasing? Thanks.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...table%20insert

[gsmittle]

I am going to build a router table, and wanted some opinions concerning router table plates. I was leaning towards an aluminum plate from Rockler in the following link.
Has anyone used this plate? Any other ones worth considering in this price range? Also, are the templates worth purchasing? Thanks.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...table%20insert

IMO, based on the struggles I've had trying to create the appropriately-sized opening for a router plate, I'd say get the template and save yourself some time and hassle.

g.

[steve-norrell]

I'll second g's suggestion about getting the template. While it is easy enough to make one, it might not be worth your time to do so.

You might also want to think about the possibility of eventually getting a router lift. Two sizes seem to be most common -- 8-1/4 X 11-3/4 and a slightly larger size, about an inch bigger in one direction. Since the Rockler plate is the smaller size, you are OK since you can always enlarge the recess if needed.

Also, the Rockler plate is aluminum -- IMO a plus. Phenolic plates, either alone or as part of a lift, are OK most of the time, but some have written that they may sag just a bit, especially if they are supporting a heavier router.

I have a JessEm lift with an aluminum plate and am completely satisfied with it. You should be quite happy with the Rockler plate -- but be warned that this may be only the first step toward getting a lift.

Regards, Steve.

[sweensdv]

You don't mention what router you're going to use but if it's a Freud you may consider doing what I did. As you may or may not know, Freud does market a router table package complete with a predrilled aluminum insert plate. I just called up Freud Customer Service and found out what the Part Number was for the insert that would fit my router. Once I had the PN I just went to one of the local Freud industrial suppliers and had them order it for me. The whole process was basically painless and required no drilling or template on my part, just fasten the router to the plate and go. My router comes with an above the table height adjustment feature and the access to this was also predrilled into the insert.

[Black wallnut]

Many years ago I purchased a phenolic plate along with an installation template (this was from a differing company). The Template was too large for the plate I purchased which ruined an accessory top I had made. For that reason I'd advise against buying a template kit. My second plate was the large Rockler's plate. It has lasted for years and is as flat today as it was when purchased. Four straight boards is all you need for a template. Buy a guide bushing and collar designed for use with a pattern as well as a spiral carbide bit and you'll get it done just fine.

[3thumbs]

I bought the Woodpecker aluminum plate, and skipped the installation template.
I spent a lot of time making the extension wing for it, and while it fits top to bottom and side to side just fine, the corners look sloppy. I wish that I would have got the template every time I look at it!

[mpc]

A few ideas I've read for making your own templates:
1) wax the router plate itself heavily, then surround it with 4 straight boards... use Bondo or other auto body filler paste to make up the gaps in the corners to make a custom-fit template.

2) find a Forstner style drill bit that matches the corners of your router plate. Drill one corner into your table top this way, then hold the plate over that corner and mark the other three. Then a simple top-bearing guided router bit (shallow cutting depth) can ride a straight edge connecting the corners. I'd make these before cutting out the center section all the way through the tabletop. Or cut the center section out (rectangular corners) and use a rabbet bit + bearing to finish the job.

3) Got a rabbeting bit that has the same radius as the router plate corners? Cut a perfectly rectangular hole a bit smaller than the plate (i.e. the actual router/center section opening) in the tabletop and then rabbet along that edge to cut the lip for the plate. The size of the rectangular hole (and the resulting lip) should correspond to the rabbet bit & guide bearing of course.

4) Freud makes a large pattern bit (top bearing, shallow cut depth) that looks like its radius matches some router plates. If so, 4 straight boards wrapped around the plate is all it takes to make a pattern. Rockler recently had such bits on sale/clearance too.

5) my own idea that just occurred to me: if you have a drill press plus sanding drum set, or a spindle sander tool with a good fence, you can sand a shallow "U" shaped section into two 1x6 boards that'll match up with the long sides of your router plate. Ride the tips of the "U" (not the bottom) against the fence so the bottom of the "U" is straight and a consistent depth from the tips. The spindle is between the fence and the workpiece. Then two stubby straight boards to connect them finishes the template.

Whatever you decide, make sure the template is securely clamped to the workpiece... and that the clamps don't get in the way of the router. I thought I could clamp mine, do some cutting until a clamp got in the way, add more clamps and remove the first set... something wiggled somewhere though. Templates with 2 to 3 inch wide faces are too small in my opinion - my next one will have more face area so I'll have plenty of room for clamps and the router. The double-sided tape I used along with the clamps didn't help either.

mpc

[RJD2]

Thanks for everyone's input. I will be utilizing a Bosch 1617EVS. I have been looking at other options as well. Does anyone have any experience with the Solid Aluminum MagnaLOCK RT Plate from INCRA? I am considering this one along with the aluminum plate from Woodpeckers too. The MagnaLOCK system seems pretty nice. Which one of these would you choose? These both can be purchased for around $80 with a 10% discount offered from INCRA directly, and other retailers that sell Woodpecker's products. So the plate from Rockler with two additional inserts, starting pin, and leveling kit would be approximately $85. The other plates come with all of this plus are 3/8" thick in comparison to Rockler's 1/4".

http://www.incrementaltools.com/INCR...lpaluminum.htm

Ron

[atgcpaul]

Thanks for everyone's input. I will be utilizing a Bosch 1617EVS. I have been looking at other options as well. Does anyone have any experience with the Solid Aluminum MagnaLOCK RT Plate from INCRA? I am considering this one along with the aluminum plate from Woodpeckers too. The MagnaLOCK system seems pretty nice. Which one of these would you choose? These both can be purchased for around $80 with a 10% discount offered from INCRA directly, and other retailers that sell Woodpecker's products. So the plate from Rockler with two additional inserts, starting pin, and leveling kit would be approximately $85. The other plates come with all of this plus are 3/8" thick in comparison to Rockler's 1/4".

http://www.incrementaltools.com/INCR...lpaluminum.htm

Ron

I have one of these Incra plates but have not setup my Triton router yet.
Currently the Triton router is on a phenolic plate but the plate is slightly
crowned which has been an issue for me. I plan on making the FWW TS
router table extension from the most recent Shops and Tools edition.

I noticed there is flex in the metal inserts which may or not be an issue if your
piece is long enough and supported by the table which is most likely the case.
I was pushing directly on the insert with my finger.

The starting pin is threaded which is not as convenient as the ones that simply
snug fit into the base. More time needed, but I generally don't need the start
pin.

Paul