Burl Finishing

[Hook]

I'm definitely better with a chisel than a mouse but I'm tired of trying to relate my questions to the blogs I'm finding. I'm finishing a piece of redwood burl. I've decided on potassium dichromate for the "pop" look. So here's my questions:

1. Do I use a wood conditioner before filling my cracks?My fear is the reaction with the pot.
2. I have large particle waste from routing and dust from sanding. For a color match in my cracks do I mix the dust with elmers wood filler and/or add some white glue to the compound or make my own with white glue, dust and the bigger fibers? Again fear of the reaction with the pot.
3. Can I verithane or poly over the potassium without cloudiness or yellowing?


At a standstill...

[cabinetman]

I'm definitely better with a chisel than a mouse but I'm tired of trying to relate my questions to the blogs I'm finding. I'm finishing a piece of redwood burl. I've decided on potassium dichromate for the "pop" look. So here's my questions:

1. Do I use a wood conditioner before filling my cracks?My fear is the reaction with the pot.
2. I have large particle waste from routing and dust from sanding. For a color match in my cracks do I mix the dust with elmers wood filler and/or add some white glue to the compound or make my own with white glue, dust and the bigger fibers? Again fear of the reaction with the pot.
3. Can I verithane or poly over the potassium without cloudiness or yellowing?

WELCOME TO THE FORUM

I wouldn't use potassium dichromate, as it's toxic. I would rather use a simplified dye or a reduced oil. As for filling cracks, most fills made with proprietary dust mixed with even white glue will be noticeable. When I've done that procedure, it took a bit of artwork with a ity bity brush and pigmented oil base stain to fade in the color.

An oil base film finish (oil base varnish or oil base polyurethane) will cast an amber tone to the wood. A waterbase polyurethane will stay clear.

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[Hook]

This is going to be an art piece out of the reach of animals and children. So your saying to die the filler to match the Burl befor using the pot or i guess after would probably be better. would you use a conditioner befor the chemical then fill/stain to match in the cracks then poly?

[cabinetman]

This is going to be an art piece out of the reach of animals and children. So your saying to die the filler to match the Burl befor using the pot

You could try that, but it will likely change when you treat the wood. It may be easier to get a color match after. If you use a conditioner, it may do too much sealing and your color outcome could be disappointing.

If you haven't done this before, I would suggest you practice on samples.

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[Hook]

i'm definitly going to do some samples just don't want to do twenty. i know a conditioner is a sealer. i don't think the redwood would be blotchy anyway (like pine) so i dont know what i was thinking.just in the habit of using the stuff i guess. so now i just have to find the ratio i"m looking for.I'll start alittle weaker than the norm an go from there. thank you ....

[Hook]

I don't think my response went through...thank you!! planning on samples Hope the cops don't knock on my door when I try to order the potassium D...Hook

[cabinetman]

This is going to be an art piece out of the reach of animals and children.

Using potassium dichloride is toxic to use (in application). It can be hazardous to handle (direct skin contact), and to inhale.

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