Melamine and Kreg screws

[Thairiam]

Hi all,

I'm about to start building some cabinets using melamine. I've read that "confirmat" screws are required for melamine.

I'd like to use my Kreg jig for the box assembly and they do mention using their course screws on soft woods and particle board. I think that melamine is just coated particle board but I'm not sure it the same stuff. Anyone used the Kreg screws in this way?

All opinions are welcome.

Thanks,
Rich L

[os1kne]

I'm no expert, but I've had success using coarse Kreg screws in MDF and Melamine before. I always use wood glue in addition to the screws, especially with this type of material. Use caution to not over torque the screws and cause them to wallow out the hole (can happen fast.) Good luck!

[gsmittle]

I've had pretty good success with the coarse Kreg screws, too. I paint the edges to be joined with a 50-50 glue/water mix (glue size) and let that dry first. This seems to seal up the edges a bit so that the full-strength glue doesn't soak in too much.

I'm not positive the glue size is needed, but it gives me peace of mind, something I've been needing lately.

I would also suggest tightening the last bit of the screws by hand, to avoid stripping the holes.

g.

[JimD]

Where they will not show, you might consider using conformant screws. I too have used coarse drywall screws (for through holes that don't show) and pocket screws where they also do not show but you can't use a through screw. They will hold the pieces while the glue dries - act as a clamp - but have noticably less holding strength than they would in solid wood or even plywood. The conformant screw should get you more strength. But once the glue dries, my experience is that screws and regular glue will work. My basement cabinets (kitchenette and bathroom) are melamine with whitewashed softwood doors. They are frameless and are holding up fine.

Jim

[cabinetman]

I wouldn't use pocket screws in melamine. In fact I don't use pocket screws. With melamine, I use dadoes and rabbets, but only 1/8" deep, which gives good substrate to substrate glue surfaces. For screws, I use coarse thread drywall type screws, piloted and countersunk. Tightening those screws is done with a cordless drill on slow speed. When almost tight, the trigger is bumped to tighten, which prevents driving them in fast, and over tightening (spinning). A good glue joint, clamped, can be stapled or brad nailed.

.

[Thairiam]

Melamine

Hi all,

Thanks for the replies. Some good food for thought. I'm gonna try my luck with a cabinet or two next week. If whatever I try works I'll post a pic.

Thanks again,
Rich L