Attaching cabinets to block wall

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  • dewi1219
    Established Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 307
    • Birmingham, AL

    Attaching cabinets to block wall

    What's the best / easiest way to mount plywood shop cabinets to a block wall? I've been looking for an excuse to buy a Ramset gun, but maybe that isn't the best solution. This is for my garage shop. I was thinking about using the Ramset to attach french cleats to the wall and then hanging the cabinets on the french cleats. I'm not sure how difficult it would be to keep the french cleats level with the recoil of the Ramset. Maybe it's not an issue.

    I haven't gotten good results in the past with Tapcons. But it very well may have been my technique or my equipment. If they are the best option that's ok too, I just need to know the best way to drive them (impact driver with a hex socket or what?).

    Maybe there's something better than the Ramset or Tapcons?
  • toolguy1000
    Veteran Member
    • Mar 2009
    • 1142
    • westchester cnty, ny

    #2
    hilti makes a model of concrete anchor bolts that work very well and are sold @ HD. we use them to bolt industrial size washers and drycleaning machines to the floor. if you are concerned about supporting any kind of weight, that's what i'd use in conjunction with a french cleat system. the anchors would support the cleat and the cleat would provide locational flexibility.
    there's a solution to every problem.......you just have to be willing to find it.

    Comment

    • gerti
      Veteran Member
      • Dec 2003
      • 2233
      • Minnetonka, MN, USA.
      • BT3100 "Frankensaw"

      #3
      I just installed kitchen cabinets using french cleats to a block wall and had no problems with Tapcons. Unlike what some recommend I prefer to drill into the block, NOT the mortar (often not stable enough). A hammer drill to drill the holes (I use a cheap HF model for that), and an impact driver to drive the Tapcons made quick work of it.

      Comment

      • dewi1219
        Established Member
        • Dec 2005
        • 307
        • Birmingham, AL

        #4
        Originally posted by toolguy1000
        hilti makes a model of concrete anchor bolts that work very well and are sold @ HD. we use them to bolt industrial size washers and drycleaning machines to the floor. if you are concerned about supporting any kind of weight, that's what i'd use in conjunction with a french cleat system. the anchors would support the cleat and the cleat would provide locational flexibility.
        Now that you mention those, I used them one time to mount a hose reel to exterior brick. May not have been Hilti brand but similar design. Seems like they worked ok but I think my holes were oversize a bit (see comment below re: drill bit).
        Originally posted by gerti
        I just installed kitchen cabinets using french cleats to a block wall and had no problems with Tapcons. Unlike what some recommend I prefer to drill into the block, NOT the mortar (often not stable enough). A hammer drill to drill the holes (I use a cheap HF model for that), and an impact driver to drive the Tapcons made quick work of it.
        Yeah, I think my issue with Tapcons was that I was using a cordless, non-impact drill to drill and drive AND a cheap Vermont American masonry bit. Can someone suggest a decent brand of masonry bit readily available to use with either the Hilti or Tapcon fasteners?

        Comment

        • eezlock
          Senior Member
          • Feb 2006
          • 997
          • Charlotte,N.C.
          • BT3100

          #5
          attaching cabinets to block wall

          I think the best way to attach them to a block wall is this. I would attach
          wooden furring strips (1"x3" )to the block wall with holes drilled through the wood strips and blocks and use some 1/4" or larger diameter toggle bolts.
          Tighten the toggle bolts securely and check them for level/plumb and this will give you a solid mount system for the cabinets. If you mount the strips to the wall horizontally, you could even use a french cleat type of mount if you want to hang the cabinets from. Just about any other mounting screws or bolts
          into cement block would leave me wondering if they were going to turn loose
          at some unexpected time and come crashing down while heavily loaded. I don't trust mounting much of anything on cement block walls.

          Comment

          • mnmphd
            Forum Newbie
            • Feb 2006
            • 49

            #6
            Originally posted by dewi1219
            Yeah, I think my issue with Tapcons was that I was using a cordless, non-impact drill to drill and drive AND a cheap Vermont American masonry bit. Can someone suggest a decent brand of masonry bit readily available to use with either the Hilti or Tapcon fasteners?
            I have had god success using Tapcons (and the equivlent brand sold at the local Lowes) to mount cabinets with french cleat. I have used cordless tools as well, but in my experience a corded drill is preferred for the drilling operation. I do use a cordless drill to drive them in. You do need a good bit.

            I am partial to the Bosch Blue Granite line. Home Depot carries these. For me they cut easier and last longer. That said, I still but them in 5 packs if I will be drilling a lot of holes. Wear will depend on concrete composition and the bits have a tendency to break at the most in opportune time.

            Some pointers that seem to work well for me.

            1. Make sure your hole is deep enough. Seems obvious, but it is important since the concrete don't compress like wood if you force. I mark the bit with some tape to make sure the hole isn't too shallow. If you happen to drill where block is not hollow you could bottom out.

            2. Have the RIGHT size driver bit. #2 Philips is common, but for some larger screws you need the #3 or it will cam out easily. Another option is a hex head, but this is a little more work to counter sink cleanly.

            3. Drive it straight and even. I try make sure the bit is aligned and apply even pressure to drive it in 1 shot. Occasionally the screw seize is the holes. Often I can back it out and try again. If it still jams, double check the hole depth and try a fresh screw. I limit my self to 2 attempts if it is a weight bearing connection. An impact driver may make this moot.

            Good Luck on your project.

            Comment

            • lebomike
              Established Member
              • Jan 2008
              • 146
              • Pennsylvania
              • Ryobi BT3000

              #7
              As a manufacturer of concrete block, I would NOT use ramset gun. You will blow holes on the inside of the web and not have a very secure anchor. Tapcons are good so are any other type anchor. Just my two cents.
              Mike
              "The power of kindness is immense. It is nothing less, really, than the power to change the world."

              Comment

              • jziegler
                Veteran Member
                • Aug 2005
                • 1149
                • Salem, NJ, USA.
                • Ryobi BT3100

                #8
                Originally posted by toolguy1000
                hilti makes a model of concrete anchor bolts that work very well and are sold @ HD. we use them to bolt industrial size washers and drycleaning machines to the floor. if you are concerned about supporting any kind of weight, that's what i'd use in conjunction with a french cleat system. the anchors would support the cleat and the cleat would provide locational flexibility.
                The Hilti anchors are good, but the last time I looked (about a month ago) the HD stores near me are no longer stocking the Hilti anchors. They do have similar sleeve anchors from a different company (I forget who it is).

                The Hilti style anchors work well in the old block of my basement where Tapcons sometimes don't hold very well.

                Comment

                • dewi1219
                  Established Member
                  • Dec 2005
                  • 307
                  • Birmingham, AL

                  #9
                  Thanks for all the info guys. I think I'll try the Tapcons again. If they don't work I'm sure the sleeve anchors or toggle bolts will. I think I found another reason I struggled with the Tapcons before. I see now on their website that the maximum embedment in masonry is 1-3/4"; any longer and the screw will bind up. I believe the Tapcons I used before were too long and had more than 1-3/4" embedment.

                  So, hammer drill + Bosch masonry bit + impact driver should do the trick. Thanks again.

                  Comment

                  • cabinetman
                    Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                    • Jun 2006
                    • 15216
                    • So. Florida
                    • Delta

                    #10
                    I use Tapcons for block walls. I use the correct drill bit in a hammerdrill, and drill through the hangrail into the block at one time. I use a cordless drill to install the Tapcons, on slow speed. I find a smooth drive is better than an impact driver, as all the screw has to do is thread the concrete. Excessive vibration can wallow out the hole with the screw. When close to seating, just bump the trigger to tighten. Driving screws fast can over spin them.

                    .

                    Comment

                    • lago
                      Established Member
                      • Nov 2003
                      • 473
                      • Lago Vista, TX.

                      #11
                      Originally posted by mnmphd
                      Some pointers that seem to work well for me.

                      1. Make sure your hole is deep enough. Seems obvious, but it is important since the concrete don't compress like wood if you force. I mark the bit with some tape to make sure the hole isn't too shallow. If you happen to drill where block is not hollow you could bottom out.

                      2. Have the RIGHT size driver bit. #2 Philips is common, but for some larger screws you need the #3 or it will cam out easily. Another option is a hex head, but this is a little more work to counter sink cleanly.

                      3. Drive it straight and even. I try make sure the bit is aligned and apply even pressure to drive it in 1 shot. Occasionally the screw seize is the holes. Often I can back it out and try again. If it still jams, double check the hole depth and try a fresh screw. I limit my self to 2 attempts if it is a weight bearing connection. An impact driver may make this moot.
                      I do the above but I started using a screwdriver to install the tapcon. Sometimes my drill doesn't stop in time and it rounds out the hole.

                      Also, be sure to blow the dust out of the hole.

                      Comment

                      • chopnhack
                        Veteran Member
                        • Oct 2006
                        • 3779
                        • Florida
                        • Ryobi BT3100

                        #12
                        After drilling the hole, blow out the hole. The excess dust in the bore can cause the screw to seize up.
                        I think in straight lines, but dream in curves

                        Comment

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