Router Table

[Luckbox]

Ok the next question on building the router table. I plan on making the top 43” x 30” and will have the router plate of center. The base I was thinking planning on being 40” x 27” giving 1.5” overhang for the top. The case will be about 30” high and planning on putting it on 3” casters and the top will be between 1.5” and 2” thick making the total height about 35”. But I have a couple of questions.
1) Would 4 casters be enough, one in each corner or should I up it to 6.
2) I am planning on having drawers and cabinets, since the case will 27” should I make it one long drawer or should I drop a divider down the center and split it into drawers on the front and back that are 13” deep?
3) If I do drop a divider down the center should I only divide the top section that will have the drawers and leave the bottom for one big 27” deep cabinet?

[LarryG]

1) Four casters is plenty adequate for a mobile unit that size, unless you're planning to fill it with something like gold bullion.

2) and 3) Up to you and your storage needs, really. More/smaller drawers can help with keeping things organized, but provide less net usable space in the same overall volume than fewer/larger drawers. Smaller drawers require more thinking about what you're going to store in them ... make the drawer too small and things may not *quite* fit, whereas a larger drawer will swallow them easily.

If it were mine, I'd probably opt for your option #3, except that instead of mixing drawers and cabinets I'd only have drawers, on full-extension slides. With storage space that's behind doors, especially in a cabinet 27" deep, it can be difficult to get at stuff that's way in the back. OTOH if you just need dead storage that is not accessed frequently, a deep cabinet might be fine. As I said, it's all a matter of your specific needs.

One other thing you might think about ... many find that a router table 38" to 40" high works best, at least as a router table. It's tall enough that you don't get a kink in your back from bend over just slightly, and brings the work up to where you can better see what you're doing. However this is partly a matter of how tall you are; and a router table 38"-40" high will usually be too high to do double-duty as an outfeed table for another tool, or to serve as an auxiliary work surface.

[leehljp]

Plus 1 on the 38" to 40" router table height recommendation by Larry. Mine was built to about 42 inches and I thoroughly enjoyed it. (I am 5' 10") The reasoning behind the height is this:
• fine control such as routers and spindle sanding are done best at elbow height
• combo height such as table saws do best with a combination of power (hand feed) and control at a height of 32 - 36 inches.
• power more than control items such as long boards through thickness planers work best at 28 - 32 inch heights.

Some people like all tables at the same height and it works for many. But one height all around takes away from the above situation for most. I personally enjoy the fine hand control that I have with the 42 in height that becomes back breaking when I have to bend over for a 32 to 34 inch. Not a problem for quick one time projects (5 minutes of routing) but a problem for routing for 30 minutes to an hour at a time.

Below is a pict of three drawers for my router center. Each drawer has the capacity for 1/4 and 1/2 bits. But I ended up placing 1/4 in shaped bits on the right, 1/2 inch shaped bits on the left, and straight/slot/rabbet bits of different types and sizes in the center. Worked out well.



Apologizes to Larry for listing someone else at first. I was looking at two post simultaneously (looking for my picts in another post) and inadvertently wrote the wrong name because the other name was in the other post .

[pelligrini]

I've got a couple boxes laid out like Lee's drawers. I did some modular bases out of MDF like the ones in this article: http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...r-bit-storage/

My router table is an extension wing of my saw. A lot of the time I'll just take a bit or two over to it insead of the whole trey. When I take more than one having a little base for it at the saw is nice, rather than just sitting it down on the table.

[Cochese]

I've got a couple boxes laid out like Lee's drawers. I did some modular bases out of MDF like the ones in this article: http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodwork...r-bit-storage/

My router table is an extension wing of my saw. A lot of the time I'll just take a bit or two over to it insead of the whole trey. When I take more than one having a little base for it at the saw is nice, rather than just sitting it down on the table.

It's times like this where I kinda wish I didn't have my all-terrain base. I'd love to get rid of my standalone router table and have a little extension, but it would kill any thought of using it outside again.

[pelligrini]

I've got a set of half rails on my 21829 with the router table at the end. I did add a adjustable support leg made from a roller stand. Before I put up an awning in front of my shed I used to chase the shade under a big maple tree on the lawn during the summer. Some pics: http://www.bt3central.com/showpost.p...92&postcount=7

[Cochese]

I meant more of a cabinet under an extension. Not really possible with how difficult the 21829 is to move when it's in the deployed position.

To stay on topic, I've been a fan of the Norm/American Woodworker design. I'm going to be redoing my drawers soon, and I hope to take a picture.

[pelligrini]

1) Would 4 casters be enough, one in each corner or should I up it to 6.
2) I am planning on having drawers and cabinets, since the case will 27” should I make it one long drawer or should I drop a divider down the center and split it into drawers on the front and back that are 13” deep?
3) If I do drop a divider down the center should I only divide the top section that will have the drawers and leave the bottom for one big 27” deep cabinet?

I use 3" casters on all my mobile shop stuff. The only time I would go larger is if you have some rough terrain or thresholds to deal with.

I did a little sharpening/sanding cart for my belt sander & worksharp. It has similar depth dimensions. I reused a bunch of drawers that my wife got from somewhere and some euro slides I had onhand. I planned to put some shelves on the back using the 6" dead space behind the drawers. The space is still there but no shelves. It is usually parked against a wall and I finally realized I wouldn't like storing anything in the back. If you'll always have access to the back of your router table I'd say do it like your option 3. Another consideration is to do long drawers on wood slides that can be pulled from either end. My grandma had a neat sewing station that had long 30"+ drawers that opened both ways.

[4estgump]

Ok the next question on building the router table. I plan on making the top 43” x 30” and will have the router plate of center. The base I was thinking planning on being 40” x 27” giving 1.5” overhang for the top. The case will be about 30” high and planning on putting it on 3” casters and the top will be between 1.5” and 2” thick making the total height about 35”. But I have a couple of questions.
1) Would 4 casters be enough, one in each corner or should I up it to 6.
2) I am planning on having drawers and cabinets, since the case will 27” should I make it one long drawer or should I drop a divider down the center and split it into drawers on the front and back that are 13” deep?
3) If I do drop a divider down the center should I only divide the top section that will have the drawers and leave the bottom for one big 27” deep cabinet?

Luckbox,
Here is my Sylvania TV router table. It works great for me. Not built for looks.
The drawers are very handy. If you would like more pic's just ask

Hope this helps 4est

[JimD]

Your top is very big. Mine is more like 24x30 and I think it is plenty big enough. You are not going to be able to move something like that easily unless you put some wheels under it.

Height should be slightly lower than your table saw. That way you can remove the fence and use it for infeed or outfeed support. I made mine 1/4 inch lower. I find it easy to shift wood up a little when feeding the router table so it will go onto the table saw when shaping long pieces. I do not want anything fighting me when I am cutting on the table saw, however. My concrete floor is not completely flat so 1/4 inch lower minimizes the chance the router table is actually above the table saw where it affects my ability to keep the wood flat on the saw.

Jim