Hand Plane Replacement Handles

[jackellis]

I have some hand planes that need new handles. Before I make an attempts on expensive and hard-to-get rosewood, I want to try a few on ash, which I have in enormous abundance, or maple, which I also have lying around. Here's the question:

I notice most handles break along the grain because the handles are cut out from stock with the grain parallel to the direction of force. Is there some reason for this, or would it make more sense to cut out the handles so the grain runs perpendicular to the direction in which force is applied? One possibility is that it could transfer the fracture point from the middle of the handle to a point where the forward end of the handle meets the plane body, but I'm wondering whether someone actually knows more than my not-so-educated guess.

[Rich P]

Some other places to look...

I've made some hand saw handles (actually plane "handles" are known as totes in the Neanderthal world) but all my hand planes are fine so I haven't tackled that one yet.

You should check out the Woodworking/Fossil Fuel Friendly section www.cianperez.com and also have a look at the Neanderthal Haven forum over at Sawmill Creek. I would highly recommend Tru-oil for your new totes and knobs. I used it on my saw handles and it gives a nice finish which is designed to be handled (it's used for gun stocks).

IMHO if the original makers had the grain aligned the way they did there was a good reason for it. There are a lot of very old planes out there with the original totes which probably means they weren't abused.

[Daryl]

Just a thought. When the tote breaks now it tends to stay on the screw, leaving you with a handle, even if broken. If the grain is verticle and breaks it would be more likely it would split off the screw and you wouldn't have even a broken tote to hold onto.