Finishing Holly

[Bruce Cohen]

I'm in the planning stage for my next jewelry box and I'd like to do something using Ebony and Holly and maybe some Bloodwood.

Usually, my finishing technique (if you want to call it that) is "Natural" Watco oil, with the last 3 or 4 coats applied using 400-1500 wet dry paper.

This "technique" works really well, especially ending up using 2 coats of Liberon Black Bison "Clear" paste wax and applied with Liberon's XXXX steel wool as the top coat.

Unfortunately, all this does darken the wood some. As Holly is practically pure white, and the effect I'll be looking for is this whiteness, has anyone done anything with Holly keeping the color as light as possible.

Having never worked with Holly, I'm curious to hear from you guys as to your experiences with this wood and how you keep it light. BTW, I tend to stay away from glossy top coats and even "satin" is almost too shiny for my taste,

As always, I'm sure someone has a great answer.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Bruce

[leehljp]

Clear water based poly is the second best to CA (superglue), but CA is for pens. Alcohol and solvent based finishes will cause bloodwood and blackwoods to bleed onto the white holly. Most slightly off tinted (from pure clear) finishes and oils will cause the holly to look antiqued, as well as cause bleeding onto the holly as mentioned.


I know you don't want to do this but seal the holly with a couple of coats of clear waterbased poly on the holly before adding the blackwood or bloodwood. You might want to seal the bloodwood / black woods also before adding them. This also helps for when sanding. Well sealed holly does help in the cleanup when the other woods are sanded. The bloodwood/blackwood sanding dust is a pain to get out of holly unless it (holly) was sealed first.

When using very white holly with other woods, it takes planning, much more so than with most inlays and mixes. But after a few times, these extra steps become second nature. The results are worth it!

It is worth a try to make a few sample joints or inlays with the different wood combos using different finish techniques and see what works best for you. Because I loved the effects of bloodwood and holly as well as blackwoods (ebonies), AND having run into bleeding as well as sanding dust and antiquing (of holly) with some finishes, I kept trying until I found a technique and the right finishes for me.

[Larryl]

Hank, appreciate your reply. You bring out several things that I have never thought about. Good information!

[Bruce Cohen]

Thanks Hank.

I just knew someone out there would have the answer.

When you refer to sealing prior to joining the Holly with Ebony, I assume that you are referring to sealing prior to physically assembling the two dissimilar pieces. Let's visualize building a table that has an apron connecting the four legs together. If the legs are Holly and the apron is Ebony and the joining method is tenoning the four pieces that comprise the apron and mortises are cut into the legs, the sealing should take place prior to the glue up.

I not making a table, but I figured this is an easy way to illustrate what I believe you're saying.

Am I correct?

Once again, many thanks for sharing your knowledge with me.

Bruce

[leehljp]

Thanks Hank.

I just knew someone out there would have the answer.

When you refer to sealing prior to joining the Holly with Ebony, I assume that you are referring to sealing prior to physically assembling the two dissimilar pieces. Let's visualize building a table that has an apron connecting the four legs together. If the legs are Holly and the apron is Ebony and the joining method is tenoning the four pieces that comprise the apron and mortises are cut into the legs, the sealing should take place prior to the glue up.

I not making a table, but I figured this is an easy way to illustrate what I believe you're saying.

Am I correct?
Once again, many thanks for sharing your knowledge with me.

Bruce

Yes, that is correct. There are some furniture pieces in which it is better to finish the pieces in part and then assemble. With holly, it is the same way, unless it is all holly.

The problem is not just the holly itself. IF you put a pen blank size of bloodwood or ebony into a jar with finish in it, let it sit for 30 minutes or more. You will find that those two woods leach the color into the finish. This leaching is not so noticeable when finishing either of those woods all by themselves, but it is magnified when using holly.

Also, on sealing the holly separate from the others - if using clear lacquer use at least 50% thinner with the finish so that it soaks into the holly. If using clear water based poly, thin it with 10 to 20% water (this is what Rockler recommends for thinning water based poly). Anything to make it soak in and adhere as much as possible. Two light coats at least.

Again, technique is important when mixing woods and different techniques can work well. Just know that you may need to experiment and don't let one failure stop you. The results are stunning. This is one area that patience wins.