Router Table 3.0

[Cochese]

As the title indicates, this is the third version of my RT project. The first was a double slab of MDF as a temporary top to one of my work tables. 2.0 was a cabinet, but I screwed up on the design and didn't incorporate drawers from the beginning.

So I took the no-problem top and built my new one. It's going well, but I have a design dilemma about a face frame. It may be that I've screwed the pooch again and didn't plan properly, or that what I was thinking about wasn't the best idea.



That's the best picture I have with the drawers and slats closed. I used 3/4" ply for the cabinet, and thought that I could just band it with 3/4"x3/4" and have it look good. Now, I'm not sure. This pic gives a good indication of what I'm talking about:



? - TBC

[Shep]

I know what you mean about not planning correctly. I'm a build it as I go type of person. Sometimes, you can't think of everything before hand. But fore me, I learn a lot better that way.

[Black wallnut]

Sure you could just band it with 3/4" x under size 3/4" and it would be fine.

[Cochese]

Had a bit of an emergency and left the post unfinished.

The other idea I had was to use 1-1.5" wide material and have it overhang to the outside, like I've seen done for kitchen cabinets. This would make the future door for the router compartment a bit smaller, but it wouldn't cause a problem. The only place it would cause a problem would be at the bottom for the casters, but I could always flush trim at the bottom.

I don't know what would be easier.

[Shep]

from what I can gather from your picture, I think banding with the 3/4" x 3/4" would be the best option. It's kind of hard to tell by the pictures, but in your opinion, how would it look bad?

[Cochese]

If done properly, I'm sure it will look fine.

The issue is, me getting it done properly. I think I'd have to do each piece individually and not make the frame then attach.

[pelligrini]

3/4 x 3/4 would probably be the best option. The little edges sticking out if you use wider material get hung and damaged easily.

Remember, it's just shop furniture too. Not even edging it is an option. I built a cart for my new belt sander last weekend out of a lot of scrap plywood. I'm probably going to leave the edges unfinished. I considered using 3/4" material, but I'm not minding the way it looks now.

[Cochese]

Just using iron or stick banding would work as well, I'd just have to move the drawer stops back (or somehow rout them back the correct depth).

I'd like to have a flush look to the drawers. Speaking of which, I'm most likely going to redo them this weekend. Nothing too major on the actual drawers, just use pocket screws instead of putting them through the butt joints.

The slats I don't like at all how they turned out, especially now that I realized the top one on both sides is too short to fit any bits in.

[JimD]

What about putting false fronts on the doors so they overhang the plywood? I've done it with 3/4 plywood on mine. The edge of the plywood showing on the sides does not bug me but I kind of don't like it showing on the front.

Jim

[Cochese]

Overhanging the carcass is certainly an option, and not a bad one. I could have the drawers overhang to the outside, and let the door overhang both upper dividers. The drawers on bottom could overhang in all directions.

The only issue would be that the door wouldn't have a stop on the bottom, but I could add one. I'm going to be modifying that area for dust collection purposes anyway, so it's worth looking into.