shelf pin jig

[LarryG]

There have been a handful of times that I've needed to add adjustable shelf holes to an existing cabinet, and this would be nearly impossible to do with a plunge router.

Sure. That's a horses-for-courses kinda thing.

If I were regularly building a bunch of cabinets in a production environment, the plunge router jig would be tough to beat (especially if you had a dedicated router to eliminate the setup time.)

Exactly right -- tough to beat. I didn't fully dedicate my Makita plunger to this job, because it tends to get used for a variety of special jobs, but there have been times when the step-and-repeat jig stayed mounted to it for weeks at a time. It mounts with three captive machine screws, so that the time required to switch between it and another special-purpose subbase could be held to a minimum.

[jking]

Odd, I've not noticed any such problems with the movement or weight. Of course the problem may be that you're using an inefficient or faulty technique. Vibration isn't an issue either, assuming a high-quality tool.

Routers ARE noisy, though, which is why I always wear hearing protection when using one.

Most of us around here do pretty infrequent work like this. In a production environment, the weight becomes an issue with the repetitive motion. Weight and repetitive motion over a long period of time (think several hours) will tire out the user. That's making the situation ripe for mistakes or accidents.

Another thing that may surprise you is how damaging the seemingly minor vibration from a tool like a router (or drill) can be. A major issue in tool design is becoming vibration reduction. In the construction industry, people have experienced serious damage to their hands due to long term exposure to vibration from tools. Tool manufacturers are designing tools based on reducing the amount of vibration to the user. While these kinds of issues are more likely to occur where the user is operating something like a hammer drill for hours on a long term basis, the effect is still there to a degree on other tools. Think about the last time you used a power sander to a long period of time & how your hands felt afterward. Mine usually start getting numb & I have to take relatively frequent breaks.

There are pros & cons to both methods. Use the method that works best for your situation.

[cabinetman]

If I were regularly building a bunch of cabinets in a production environment, the plunge router jig would be tough to beat (especially if you had a dedicated router to eliminate the setup time.)

In a production environment, a plunge router isn't used, because of how trying it can be with doing a lot of holes. Friends of mine who have shops don't use a plunge router for drilling shelf holes. User method isn't a factor as it's pretty cut and dry on how the plunge router works. In addition to just handling the router, it's also all the plunging. For those projects that plain panels need holes and there aren't too many, some may choose it to be an option. I would expect a router jig would have the option allowing the holes to be space adjusted from the guided edge.
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[cabinetman]

I would expect a router jig would have the option allowing the holes to be space adjusted from the guided edge.
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There are other things to consider about an edge guided index plunge router jig. For whatever material used for the index pin, there is the possibility of a wear factor from having to insert it for the second hole, and remove it for a first hole, since it has to have a slip fit. Likewise, the index pin may affect the hole in the jig, which could affect the accuracy of the index pin.

For a shelf, there are four different places (two per panel) that need a start hole. An edge guide can only do one set of holes, and the first hole has to be positioned by some method. If it's a measurement to the first hole, that has to happen at four locations. If you plan on this, arranging for a fail safe way to get that first hole positioned would be important because all the succeeding holes will follow.

If there are sets or groups of holes, the first hole of the group must be positioned with accuracy. As an example, lets assume that there are three adjustable shelves in a cabinet, and each shelf will have three holes for adjustment, and the shelves are 12" apart (on the middle hole). For each group of holes, the first hole must be positioned accurately, or the shelves will not be level, or, a set or more of the holes may be off.

So there is a margin for error in positioning the first hole at the four locations. These are some factors that should be considered when making or buying a jig to do shelf pin holes.
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[bmuir1616]

Plunge Router Jig

I found this jig a couple of years ago and and built one out of 1/2-inch MDF. I have used it on three bookshelf projects. Routed the holes flat on the bench before assembly. Also, the jig has an adjustment for changing the distance of the holes from the edge of the shelf standard. Very handy. I use a 1/4-inch up spiral bit in the router. I did not have to do more that 100 holes and the router gave me perfectly straight and clean holes. Worked like a charm.

[Black wallnut]

I found this jig a couple of years ago and and built one out of 1/2-inch MDF. I have used it on three bookshelf projects. Routed the holes flat on the bench before assembly. Also, the jig has an adjustment for changing the distance of the holes from the edge of the shelf standard. Very handy. I use a 1/4-inch up spiral bit in the router. I did not have to do more that 100 holes and the router gave me perfectly straight and clean holes. Worked like a charm.

I have used my own version of the same jig. I'm actually on my second one as the first one was built quickly on a cheap grade of plywood. Both have served me well. I've not had problems keeping my carcase sides oriented correctly throughout the assembly process. As with all woodworking careful setup and execution usually equals great results. IMHO the only method superior to mine is the one Lee uses. However if folks prefer the drill and pegboard method more power to them. The OP seems to have been looking for advice on why he is not getting good results with a router method. I'm thinking he has more ideas now than before as well as options. Hope he finds one that works for him.

[LarryG]

There are other things to consider about an edge guided index plunge router jig. For whatever material used for the index pin, there is the possibility of a wear factor from having to insert it for the second hole, and remove it for a first hole, since it has to have a slip fit. Likewise, the index pin may affect the hole in the jig, which could affect the accuracy of the index pin.

For a shelf, there are four different places (two per panel) that need a start hole. An edge guide can only do one set of holes, and the first hole has to be positioned by some method. If it's a measurement to the first hole, that has to happen at four locations. If you plan on this, arranging for a fail safe way to get that first hole positioned would be important because all the succeeding holes will follow.

If there are sets or groups of holes, the first hole of the group must be positioned with accuracy. As an example, lets assume that there are three adjustable shelves in a cabinet, and each shelf will have three holes for adjustment, and the shelves are 12" apart (on the middle hole). For each group of holes, the first hole must be positioned accurately, or the shelves will not be level, or, a set or more of the holes may be off.

So there is a margin for error in positioning the first hole at the four locations. These are some factors that should be considered when making or buying a jig to do shelf pin holes.
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I don't understand why, but it seems you are determined to try to find fault with my jig and methods in every possible way.

I could respond to each of these niggling criticisms, and easily demonstrate how baseless they are, but I have a better idea. I've posted a link to an old thread that includes photos of my jig, showing how it is built and how it is used. For those who may have missed it, up the page, here it is again ... my step-and-repeat jig.

So here's my idea ... now how about YOU posting some pictures showing us how YOUR method works? I'm certain that would help both myself and those who are following this thread to fully understand the two different procedures. Yes, I do understand that your method is quite simple. Still, some pictures would be useful since every picture is, as they say, worth a thousand words. After you've posted your pictures, we can continue this discussion on a more equal footing.

When can we expect such pictures from you?

[cabinetman]

I don't understand why, but it seems you are determined to try to find fault with my jig and methods in every possible way.

I didn't make any reference to your jig. I apologize if you think that was the intent. Generally speaking pros and cons in making and using jigs can be a valuable discussion in a woodworking forum, and shouldn't be taken personally.

I could respond to each of these niggling criticisms, and easily demonstrate how baseless they are...

I think that would be more productive and informative than seeing a picture of a piece of pegboard clamped to the inside side of a cabinet.
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[Black wallnut]

Let's keep the discussion about jigs and techniques please.

[Cochese]

Let's keep the discussion about jigs and techniques please.

Indeed. I just left a forum where someone had to constantly prove that they were right. There's more than one way to do things, and there is no right one.