Oak Pore Filler?

[crybdr]

I recently inherited a 80 year old oak kitchen table from my family. The top is quarter sawn oak. The pores of the wood look black - either through age or a filler of some sort?

I'd like to build some leaves for the table - the originals are long gone and the substitute leaves are not a good match at all. I plan to get some quarter sawn oak for the project.

How can I match the blackened pores of the wood? It seems like I've heard of a product that you rub into the pores and then sand and finish. Does something like this exist? I haven't found anything online yet......

Thanks for the help,

crybdr

[cabinetman]

My suggestion would be to use a chemical stripper on the existing table, and then use a solvent based filler like this, on the table and the new additions and then finish all at the same time. The "pore fillers" are also called "paste wood fillers", which are different than wood putty used for repairs.
.

[crybdr]

Thanks....that looks like the thing I was thinking of.

I won't be stripping the existing table (at least not yet) - it still has the finish that my dad put in on 25 years ago - and it still looks great (he said it was a 'water based something or other') . I'm just trying to match it as best I can.

[pelligrini]

One thing that might have happened with the dark filled pores is that the table was once stained a much darker color and then sanded down at one time. I've got a coffee table and end table from my folks that had a really dark finish. When I sanded it off the deeper oak grain was still dark. I ended up doing the re-finish with several coats of poly. I love the look now, the grain really pops out.

[gerti]

Maybe a black wax like this one can be used to achieve that effect:

http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/st...on_black?Args=

[herb fellows]

A black dye immediately rubbed off might do the trick.

[SARGE..g-47]

Does the existing table have stain on it or was it left natural. I use QSWO almost exclusively and have the black pores you mention using stains of various shades. There are two ways to do it.. paste filler which is applied over the entire surface as mentioned then wiped off across the grain after it starts to set with a burlap. Then sand the dark shade from the main surface before application of regular stain and finish.

Or I get the same effect by not filling the pores.. application of stain then a rub out with 0000 Liberon steel wool while applying Liberon Black Bison Medium Oak wax. The dark wax fills the pores and leaves dark streaks which I call Tiger Striping the finish. I will add a few pictures to try to show. I don't have a close up pic specifically but hopefully this will show what I mean. If not.. request it and I will get a picture close-up this morning to show you. I won't know how well this is going to show until I post?

Edit... Not well so I will get a shot close and repost!

Good luck...

[avbclark]

Nice work

Sarge,
That is beautiful work. I am hoping you can post a full picture of the upper left project. Is it a table / lamp combo?
I really like the ebonized through tenons. Greene and Greene inspired?
Bill

[pelligrini]

Sarge,
That is beautiful work. I am hoping you can post a full picture of the upper left project. Is it a table / lamp combo?
I really like the ebonized through tenons. Greene and Greene inspired?
Bill

There's some good info in this thread: http://www.bt3central.com/showthread.php?t=50439

[SARGE..g-47]

Here is a picture that hopefully shows the black streaks better. I'm not much of a photo guy and the lights can play tricks. They are not great pics but... Using paste filler is somewhat of a PITA IMO as you really have to sand to get the darker color that will penetrate the surface wood to some degree but yet leave the pores filled. Probably not too bad in your case where you don't have too much area to work with on an extension.

But.. if you do use the paste... be aware is comes in light and dark. The light is more of medium brown with dark being almost black. You want the dark IMO as your fathers finish and the pores have also been exposed to 25 years of traffic. Sunlight comes into play and so does cleaning agents used to wipe it off. To truly get a uniform color match... Cabinetman nailed it. You need to completely strip and finish the entire piece including extension with the same stain.. finish.. etc.

If you do go just the extension route.. I would certain get some scrap.. sand it to the degree the real piece will be and experiement to try to match as close as possible.

Good luck...

[SARGE..g-47]

Sarge,
That is beautiful work. I am hoping you can post a full picture of the upper left project. Is it a table / lamp combo?
I really like the ebonized through tenons. Greene and Greene inspired?
Bill

Thanks Bill.. I do my own design which is basically A & C and Art Noveau modified to my taste. The lamp-table you requested is a custom crochet.. work-bench.. do all for my lovely that sits beside her TV.. crochet.. bill paying.. etc. chair. An odd spot as the chair is angled toward the TV from a fireplace hearth which leaves a small ososceles trapozoid area for the table. The table she had over-flowed as she needs light.. a tissue box.. TV controls.. bills to be paid.. reading glasses.. etc. A work-bench for her so to speak.

This was my solution to that. Small but a challenge. I have a Mission Twin bed finish curing in the shop that only took 9 days to build even with 34 slats and 72 mortice and tenons.. bridle joints and splined stopped dadoes. A piece of cake compared to making this table fit the small spot and hold all she required. I added a before to the after's so you see how pathetic the situation was! I've pumped out 13 custom carcass pieces for her in the last two years since retiring. There is no end in sight it appears but no time to get in trouble which I probably would.

Any questions... ask!

[steve-norrell]

I used two different methods to darken the grain of oak. I am quite pleased with the results of both treatments.

The hanging mirror frame was darkened with a couple of treatments with a mixture of dark walnut and jacobean oil-based stains (Minwax). The lighter table was darkened with Black Buffalo wax (Liberon) in their 'medium oak' color, no stain. Both pieces were finished with at least two coats of clear furniture wax.

The table has been in use for about a year and the finish seems to be weathering light use quite well. The mirror is only a few months old and is at my daughter's house so I don't know how the finish is holding up.

Both pictures were taken in the shop, under the same lighting conditions.

Good luck, Steve.