Worm Holes

[steve-norrell]

I have some wood (cherry, walnut) that have worm holes. I don't mind the worm holes and I think they add 'character' to the wood. But . . . .

I want to use the wood for decorative pieces and/or small serving boards for dry finger foods and would like to seal the worm holes. I have tried Zinsser Seal Coat shellac, but the shellac just seems to run through the holes so that they remain open.

I have also thought of forcing some clear epoxy into the holes and sanding smooth before applying any surface finishes. But, I don't know how that would affect the surrounding wood.

Any suggestions would be welcome, as usual.

Regards, Steve

[thrytis]

On most recent episode of the Wood Whisperer (found here), he uses epoxy to fill a knot hole. I think if you can sand enough, you will remove all the epoxy on the surrounding wood. You can also try masking with tape to limit where the epoxy gets to. You might need to block the other side of the hole too so the epoxy doesn't all run out.

[atgcpaul]

On most recent episode of the Wood Whisperer (found here), he uses epoxy to fill a knot hole. I think if you can sand enough, you will remove all the epoxy on the surrounding wood. You can also try masking with tape to limit where the epoxy gets to. You might need to block the other side of the hole too so the epoxy doesn't all run out.

I've done this on a cherry desk. I colored the epoxy with some black dye
first. I masked the surrounding area with blue tape then spread the epoxy
into the hole leaving it proud of the hole a little. It took at least a day to dry
rock hard. Then I came back with a chisel and hand plane to smooth it to
the wood.

[phrog]

Don't get too close to the wormhole or you may end up on the other side of the universe.

[Uncle Cracker]

Epoxy works fine, and so does CA glue. If the worm holes are dark in color, you can even get black CA, which serves the dual purpose of leaving the holes looking natural, while filling completely so there is no disruption of the flat surface. I use this method when working with ambrosia maple.

[JR]

You can mix a little sawdust with 5-minute epoxy or CA glue. It won't match perfectly, but it will help make it look like it belongs. Also, it helps the glue stay together, mitigating the need for taping suggested by Paul.

I sometimes file the stuff to get it close, then chisel and sand. I don't like the idea of using my good plane blades on it.

Try it on a piece of scrap. It's easy and effective.

JR

[Black wallnut]

5 minute epoxy is what I would use. I would not add anything to it otherwise your worm holes may disappear. It is nearly true that once cut you can not get wood to grow back however in my gun stock checkering sometimes a tool slips and removes a small amount of wood from the wrong spot. When this happens I simply place a dab of 5 minute epoxy on the spot and after it cures continue to checker. After a couple of passes with a checkering tool the epoxy blends in so well that it is nearly invisible. I've found that epoxy works just like hardwood with regular tools. The only catch is I am not sure that all 5 minute epoxies are the same so I always buy a brand that claims to be waterproof.

[cwsmith]

I thought this was going to be a Steven Hawking discussion...

Oh well

CWS

[steve-norrell]

Thanks, folks.

Based on what was suggested here, I rode the worm hole to a Borg sector and got them to replicate some five-minute epoxy. Its now curing in situ. (If I could only figure out how to make it set up at warp speed AFTER I got it in place.)

Thanks again. May the force be with you.

Regards, Steve

[phi1l]

You mean it takes longer than 5 min. for 5 min. epoxy to cure?

You know of course, now that the worm holes are plugged, you will no longer be able to send your sawdust & wood scraps to the delta quadrant.