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I am making a table that will have mortise and tenon joinery. I am not sure how to make the mortises. I don't have a mortiser and I have heard of people using both drill presses and routers. Any suggestions?
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Either method works, but the router, coupled with a good template, will get you closer to home than the drill press, because you'll only have the corners to square off. With the DP and standard bits, you're gonna be in chisel-ville trying to clean up all 4 edges of every mortise.
If you're gonna do many of them, maybe you might consider looking into a mortising attachment for your DP, or just grab a Harbor Freight mortiser for about the same price. -
Although UC is right on the money about using the router, if you're new at M&T's I would suggest a drill and chisel for your first mortices. This way you can easily adjust for the tenons. Tenons are easier with the router or even with a table saw. Be sure you have real sharp tools for squaring the corners.From the "deep south" part of Canada
Richard in Smithville
http://richardspensandthings.blogspot.com/Comment
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Thanks for the input, i think i will try the DP and see how that goes. I had another question though. The aprons are 5 in. wide and 3/4 in. thick and the legs are 1.5 in. square and I wasn't sure about the size of the mortise. I was thinking of making it 1/2 wide by 4 1/2 long but I am not sure on the depth of the mortise or even if this would be the appropriate sized mortise for this piece.Comment
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The width (thickness) of the tenon will have more impact on its strength than the length. An eighth-inch shoulder on the long sides is plenty, so the 1/2" tenon is good. I think I'd leave a good 1/2 to 3/4" shoulder on the ends, though, so 3-1/2 to 4" tenons would be fine. You could think about (since you are hand-fitting) cutting the tenons a tad large, so you can sand or shave to fit your mortises, since they may not be exactly uniform in size.
As for depth, I usually go about half into the chair or table leg if mortises are offset from front to side, but yours are aligned, so mortises that deep would meet in the middle and possibly weaken the leg. You can go shallower to avoid this, and can add strength by gusseting between the apron pieces.Comment
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Thanks UC.Comment
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Under the circumstances of the 3/4" thick aprons.. I would use 3/8" mortises for two reasons. I don't like to make the remaining walls that thin (1/8") and you apparently are new to cutting mortises which means you are like to use a chisel to square the ends. A slip up with travel direction of the mallet which transfers to the chisel or hand applied pressure taps if soft wood could blow a side wall out when you left the thin side wall.
You might want to do a little practice with scrap before you attempt to do the real thing as you only get one chance with the real deal.
Good luck...Comment
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One thing I disagree with UC on, is his advice to get the drill press attachment (which he then said or just get the HF mortising machine). I have NEVER known or read about ANYONE, ANYWHERE, liking the outcome of them.
The HF machine, though, I have heard people like (especially after buying better bits elsewhere). You will read other opinions here on the subject, but what I have seen, is don't waste the money, on the attachment.She couldn't tell the difference between the escape pod, and the bathroom. We had to go back for her.........................Twice.Comment
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A square or rectangular mortise is better done with a dedicated mortiser. It can be done with a DP attachment, or with chisels. Shop made jigs for a router work out well if they are planned correctly. This is not to rule out the possibility of using a handheld drill.
For the tenon, for square or rectangular tenons, they can be done on a table saw, radial arm saw, table router, handheld router, or with a handsaw. You could also use tenon cutters.
For a round tenon, a loose tenon (like a dowel) can be used. The fitting of the tenon is critical, and for an integral tenon, like on rails, stretchers, or aprons, when an angle is involved, a loose tenon may be the best bet.
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If you have more time than money, or just like to build jigs, this looks really interesting...
http://woodgears.ca/slot_mortiser/index.htmlComment
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Thanks for all the input. I am hopefully going to come into some money because I am selling an old table saw of mine and finally found a buyer. I was thinking of buying the HF mortiser and was wondering if anyone knew if it was any good.Comment
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I can pick one up with a coupon for $100 where I am. Is there anything else that I will need in order to use it or to make good mortises?Comment
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