Jewelry Box

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  • JR
    The Full Monte
    • Feb 2004
    • 5636
    • Eugene, OR
    • BT3000

    #1

    Jewelry Box

    A while ago I posted looking for ideas reagarding stacking boxes. phi1l suggested I tnink about a tackle box type arrangement, which I thought was really stupid. Then I saw project in a Taunton book which was exactly that idea, and I suddenly thought it was brilliant. Sorry for doubting you phi1l.

    Here is a maple and walnut prototype of the project. It's a prototype for a number of reasons, including workmanship deficiencies, irregularly spaced miter keys, and some screwups with the side support mechanism.

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    Even with a project plan in hand the side support mechanism was very tricky. In typical Fine Woodworking fashion, the plan identifies the toughest details in six words or less, but leaves unsaid that "you're smart, you'll figure everything else out." There are two important things in laying out the supports - 1) The long supports need to be mounted 1/2" off both the front and back in order to open the correct distance, and 2) The distance between the center hole in the long supports to the outer holes must be the same distance as between the two holes on the shorter supports. The supports should be parallel, but I think the angle is not important.

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    There is a fixed support mounted on the rear, which does double duty holding the box upright when it is open as well as providing a landing spot for the lid when it is open. The plan called for a simple board, but it seemed to provide insufficient support for the lid. It felt like the hinge screws would pull out.

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    I made new support using 1/2" material, but it was still iffy. So I decided to add a little handle, which would also make it easier to open the box. One thing I'm not thrilled with is that the handle is mounted with screws. Although there are plenty of screws in the project, I wish I could figure out a better handle arrangement.

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    I finished with a few coats of shellac and a few coats of Deft water based acrylic. It was the first time I had used the Deft. It was great to apply, going on easily and drying quickly, but the satin was more dull than I had expected. It also is really neutral in color, so the amber of the shellac was a welcome addition.

    Any and all comments welcome.
    Attached Files
    Last edited by JR; 01-31-2010, 07:56 PM.
    JR
  • pelligrini
    Veteran Member
    • Apr 2007
    • 4217
    • Fort Worth, TX
    • Craftsman 21829

    #2
    Pretty neat design. How'd you work out the support arms? Was there some plan you adapted or did you figure it out on your own?
    Erik

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    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15216
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #3
      That's some involved planning. To stack and pivot so all levels are clear must have been a brainteaser. It sure opens far. Prototype looks very good, and will provide a basis for refinement, if you think it's necessary. I like the "keyed" look.
      .

      Comment

      • JR
        The Full Monte
        • Feb 2004
        • 5636
        • Eugene, OR
        • BT3000

        #4
        The plan came from a Tauntan book, Basic Box Making, by Doug Stowe. Even with a plan, as Cabinetman says, it was a brain teaser.

        The side mechanism is made using a template. The screws are oriented in three rows, but I got hung on having the holes aligned on the row line. They actually all orient from the center hole, which is located right in center of the side. You might be surprised how two holes that are on the line they're supposed to be on could fesult in a 1/16" variation between two points. So, when making the template it's important to make sure the distance between two ends of a support arm, or the end and middle of the center support, are the correct distance. That way, fabricating the support arms is more of a production effort than a series of exercises in individual craftsmanship.

        JR
        JR

        Comment

        • phi1l
          Senior Member
          • Oct 2009
          • 681
          • Madison, WI

          #5
          Looks really nice!!

          The back support in the contrasting wood adds some style & interest.

          But if you wanted a cleaner look, I have a couple of suggestions for a void needing it.

          First, is there a enough room under the top box for a hide-a-way support to replace the stationary one? I am picturing a thin piece of walnut attached to the bottom of the top box by a hing. When the box is closed, it is folded up underneath the box, but when the box is opened, it would be free drop down & support the top boxes.

          Also, when you open the box, if you allow it to open it so that the side supports are just past the vertical, would there be enough space between boxes to get to the back of the box? Doing that, it may be possible to get way without a back support, possible with the aid of some counter balancing weight located under the front of the bottom box.

          As far as the top goes, I think if you mortise the hinges into the space between the top box & the lid, when the lid is fully opened the stress on the hinge screws will be perpendicular to the screw orientation, & will probably be able to support the lid without a back support. If not, you can use a decorative lanyard or stock hardware. to limit how far it opens.

          Good job!!

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