Fastener Advice

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  • jackellis
    Veteran Member
    • Nov 2003
    • 2638
    • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
    • BT3100

    Fastener Advice

    I'm about to start building a trestle table that I'll use as a desk. Very simple design because that's what we like. I'm planning to attach the legs to the top with either wood buttons or the metal equivalent. However, I'm not quite sure how to attach the stretcher, which will fit into mortises in the legs, so it looks nice and can be disassembled. Bolts through the legs into T-nuts at the ends of the stretcher won't work (been there, done that with some sawhorses). Threaded inserts at the ends of the stretcher with countersunk 1/4 or 5/16 inch machine screws seems like a better bet. any other ideas would be welcome.

    A rough drawing using Sketchup (excuse the mess):

  • LarryG
    The Full Monte
    • May 2004
    • 6693
    • Off The Back
    • Powermatic PM2000, BT3100-1

    #2
    Would you consider an exposed-wedge through-tenon? Or is that too Arts-y and Crafts-y for your tastes?
    Larry

    Comment

    • cabinetman
      Gone but not Forgotten RIP
      • Jun 2006
      • 15216
      • So. Florida
      • Delta

      #3
      You could make a tenon long enough to protrude the outside of the legs. Make a hole in the end of the tenon (appropriately shaped) to tap in a wedge that would pull up tight.
      .

      Comment

      • JR
        The Full Monte
        • Feb 2004
        • 5633
        • Eugene, OR
        • BT3000

        #4
        A cross dowel and connector bolt might do the trick.



        JR
        JR

        Comment

        • pelligrini
          Veteran Member
          • Apr 2007
          • 4217
          • Fort Worth, TX
          • Craftsman 21829

          #5
          Like the others have said; a tusk tenon would work and show off some joinery craftsmanship.

          The metal cross dowel connectors like JR shows are very strong. I dissembled an old mahogany end table that my boy was tossing for the wood and there were a few joints using those connectors. A couple of the hex heads were stripped out and corroded so I took a hammer to it, then a bigger hammer, then a larger sledge.

          You can also do lag bolts into wood cross dowel. That makes for a pretty strong joint too. Depends on how often it will be dissembled.
          Erik

          Comment

          • jackellis
            Veteran Member
            • Nov 2003
            • 2638
            • Tahoe City, CA, USA.
            • BT3100

            #6
            I've considered a through tenon (tusk tenon?) with some sort of wedge. I do like the way they look. Probably square to match the style of the table. The big question is, will I do a better job of drilling holes for screws and inserts, or am I skilled enough to make a nice-looking through tenon.

            Maybe the answer is, tusk tenon. It's likely the (first attempt at) legs will be made from scrap cedar decking. I can afford to mess them up and start over. It'll give me a reason to prep and use my new Naritz chisels.

            Comment

            • phi1l
              Senior Member
              • Oct 2009
              • 681
              • Madison, WI

              #7
              There are also pegged tenon variations..

              Comment

              • herb fellows
                Veteran Member
                • Apr 2007
                • 1867
                • New York City
                • bt3100

                #8
                I've always referred to that as a 'pegged through tenon', which was going to be my suggestion also.
                It' amazing we can communicate at all with the many different terms we use for the same things; I've never heard 'tusk tenon', but it's not too much of a stretch visually to realize we're talking about the same thing.
                You don't need a parachute to skydive, you only need a parachute to skydive twice.

                Comment

                • cabinetman
                  Gone but not Forgotten RIP
                  • Jun 2006
                  • 15216
                  • So. Florida
                  • Delta

                  #9
                  You might also consider this type of fastener. Might be easier, and nothing would show.
                  .

                  Comment

                  • Daryl
                    Senior Member
                    • May 2004
                    • 831
                    • .

                    #10
                    My two cents:
                    How about a pocket screw? Probably take two per side, one at top and one at bottom.
                    I kind of like the bed rail solution.
                    Last edited by Daryl; 01-28-2010, 04:14 PM.
                    Sometimes the old man passed out and left the am radio on so I got to hear the oldie songs and current event kind of things

                    Comment

                    • sscherin
                      Senior Member
                      • Dec 2003
                      • 772
                      • Kennewick, WA, USA.

                      #11
                      I was thinking of a long dovetail joint..

                      Route the slot vertically in the leg.
                      cut dovetail tendons on the ends of the cross piece.

                      It would slide in from the top. and the top locks it in.

                      My original thought was to make each leg in 2 pieces.. front half and back half
                      Do a traditional row of dovetails like you would for a drawer on the cross piece..

                      On each half of the leg would get a half depth dovetail(the cross piece would only seat half way in either side) so when they are put together they lock the cross piece together.

                      Just my odd thoughts..
                      William's Law--
                      There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it
                      cannot be solved by brute strength and ignorance.

                      Comment

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