Color Wheel

[chopnhack]

Has anyone ever used the Finisher's Color Wheel that woodcraft, rockler and others sell?

[Jim Frye]

Has anyone ever used the Finisher's Color Wheel that woodcraft, rockler and others sell?

I have the color wheel from Homestead Finishing. What's your reason for asking?

[chopnhack]

Thanks for the reply Jim, sorry for long delay in replying....
I wondered if they were worth the money? I have an eye for color on occasion, however, I thought that the wheel might help me in matching stains to existing wood better than guesstimating and tedious trial and error. I wouldnt mind a few guesses, but if I can get in the ballpark first.... Have you used your and if so, with what stains or dyes?

thanks in advance

[Jim Frye]

It's in the eye of the beholder...

Thanks for the reply Jim, sorry for long delay in replying....
I wondered if they were worth the money? I have an eye for color on occasion, however, I thought that the wheel might help me in matching stains to existing wood better than guesstimating and tedious trial and error. I wouldnt mind a few guesses, but if I can get in the ballpark first.... Have you used your and if so, with what stains or dyes?

thanks in advance

I do use the color wheel and I find it helps a bunch. I use it mostly when I have to match an existing finish or another piece. For dyes, I use Homestead's TransTints liquids and Lockwood's powdered water based dyes. I find the TransTints really easy to use to mix a particular color since you can measure them drop by drop. The powders, I measure with a small electronic food scale. For oil based colorants I have used Minwax's stains for decades. However, I use only the dye portion of the Minwax colors and leave the pigment portions in the cans. I do this by letting the stain sit for weeks to let the pigment settle to the bottom and then draw the dye portion off with a small syringe. The Minwax dyes are good for tinting topcoats to make a glaze. I don't use the Minwax stains much anymore except for wood trim work (baseboards, casings, doors, and the like). For furniture I prefer the TransTints liquids and Lockwood's powders.

[chopnhack]

Very cool, I think I will have to add that to my arsenal when I can free up some funds. The transtints are fairly expensive as I recall.... are their any groups of colors that you find yourself constantly using? I am looking to tint some pale poplar/ other pale colored woods like birch, blondewood, etc. to a cinnamon/nutmeg color. Can you suggest a grouping that I would want to start with to see if I can get close? Thanks again!

[cabinetman]

I wondered if they were worth the money? I have an eye for color on occasion, however, I thought that the wheel might help me in matching stains to existing wood better than guesstimating and tedious trial and error. I wouldnt mind a few guesses, but if I can get in the ballpark first.... Have you used your and if so, with what stains or dyes?

thanks in advance

I've had a color wheel from Constantines for a long time. It does take out some of the guess work. I've seen some product specific color wheels. I still find that there is some experimenting to do. I use cooking measuring spoons to make small mixes. That way I can keep track of the mixing ratios for when I make up a larger quantity.
.

[Jim Frye]

Very cool, I think I will have to add that to my arsenal when I can free up some funds. The transtints are fairly expensive as I recall.... are their any groups of colors that you find yourself constantly using? I am looking to tint some pale poplar/ other pale colored woods like birch, blondewood, etc. to a cinnamon/nutmeg color. Can you suggest a grouping that I would want to start with to see if I can get close? Thanks again!

Yes, the TransTints seem expensive, but they go a long, long way. As for colors to purchase, I don't really have any suggestions. I start with the color wheel and a color chart from the dye I am going to use and see what colors I will likely need for the project wood. The good news is that TransTints have a very long shelf life (think years and years) as do the powdered dyes if they are kept dry. The pale woods that you mention should not color much differently than what shows on the color charts. Woods like red oak, walnut, cherry, and the like will take some experimentation on scraps to see what the final color will be, especially when sapwood is involved.

[chopnhack]

Thanks for the input, guys.

[wardprobst]

The TransTint medium brown and dark mission brown are pretty useful. I tend to mix the colors on glass and hold it over the work but I do find the color wheel Homestead sells worth the money. It's geared to TransTint colors.
DP

[chopnhack]

Thanks Dale. Do either of the colors you mentioned have an orange or reddish tone to them?

[wardprobst]

Thanks Dale. Do either of the colors you mentioned have an orange or reddish tone to them?

Medium brown has a little orange undertone. One problem with dyes/stains is nomenclature. Bismark Brown is a reddish brown but Trans Tint doesn't use that name, I think you can get it from W.D. Lockwood as an alcohol stain. I mostly buy from my piano suppliers and they use an older terminology.
You might want to check out this page http://www.homesteadfinishingproduct.../TransTint.htm
Maybe the reddish brown or mahogany?
DP