Edge banding solid wood question

[180x]

I know that typically this isn't a good practice because of the movement of wood. I'm making a Sudoku board for my mom (a Rockler design). I tried using the Rockler walnut ply, but the tear out was terrible because the veneer was so thin. So I have used solid walnut.

The dimensions are 5/8" thick and 9 3/8" x 9 3/8". My question is this small enough, and possibly not too thick, to edge band it with Birdseye maple w/out disastrous results?

[JSUPreston]

First thing I thought of: why not use 1/8" thick maple and wrap it around the entire piece. You could glue and pin it to the main body.

[JR]

You'd probably be ok. If the edge banding will be mitered you could reinforce the conrers with hidden splines or visible keys.

JR

[JimD]

It's no problem edge banding plywood with solid wood. Plywood doesn't move nearly as much, essentially does not move, from humidity changes. The solid wood will move more, but not as much if the finish reduces the rate of any moisture level changes. If the edge banding is narrow, it should be no problem. Even with wider edge banding, it should be OK but would look better with mitered corners. Wood moves mostly across the grain so joining the long grain to the plywood, the normal method, works well.

Jim

[JSUPreston]

Brain fart...when I read edge banding, I was thinking about the edge banding that you get in rolls for plywood, not what the OP was asking about and what I wound up describing.

I didn't have my coffee when I first responded.

[JimD]

I re-read too and I think the real question is if it is OK to band solid walnut with solid maple. If that is the question, I still think the answer is basically "no problem". I made 4 jewelry chests several years ago out of figured maple and walnut. The drawer pulls are walnut, the rest of the drawer maple (drawer pull varies in width but runs the full width of the drawer), the legs are walnut and the rest of the structure is maple. No problems. Unless one of the pieces of wood is wet and the other dry, the difference in shrinkage in a piece this small should not hurt anything.

I also made a gunstock for my 22 with two pieces of maple on the outside and a middle of walnut. That is bigger but glueing them together in a sandwich still did not result in any visible separation at the glue line. It is also several years old.

Jim

[Salty]

Well, I can't remember now how long ago I build this computer desk.
Wait, BT3 history is there and since I an not shy about showing off....it looks like I finished this around 14 months ago.
I edge banded cheap 3/4" ply with fir. The fir is about 1-1/2" wide. I can see NO evidence that the corners or other joints have moved. The center section is about 22" deep and 30" wide.
I wouldn't worry about it. Just be generous with the glue.

Salty

[cabinetman]

It's no problem edge banding plywood with solid wood. Plywood doesn't move nearly as much, essentially does not move, from humidity changes. The solid wood will move more, but not as much if the finish reduces the rate of any moisture level changes. If the edge banding is narrow, it should be no problem. Even with wider edge banding, it should be OK but would look better with mitered corners. Wood moves mostly across the grain so joining the long grain to the plywood, the normal method, works well.

Jim

+1. Edge banding solid wood to either plywood or solid wood for the size you listed is OK. Another choice is if you can't get a clean edge on the plywood, use any plywood/substrate and lay a piece of veneer on it.

A redeeming fact about wood movement is that for interior furniture or items like game boards, they usually reside in a fairly constant state of temperature and humidity levels.
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